Head Gasket Time
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Head Gasket Time
Well...I knew the coolant had been going slowly. I just hadn't known where. Wasn't in the oil...couldn't see any obvious leaks.
Was looking at the bolts on the passenger side exhaust manifold today...saw a little green trail running down. Sure enough...antifreeze is leaking a little bit. So small it's not noticeable (the coolant tank went down maybe an inch in a month) and wasn't a liquid trail, it was dry, looked like algea kinda.
The driver's side head seems easy to pull...the passenger side looks impossible though, the A/C condenser is right there.
Suggestions on how to go 'bout it? Thanks a lot. And an estimate on the time it will take me to do both would be wonderful.
Was looking at the bolts on the passenger side exhaust manifold today...saw a little green trail running down. Sure enough...antifreeze is leaking a little bit. So small it's not noticeable (the coolant tank went down maybe an inch in a month) and wasn't a liquid trail, it was dry, looked like algea kinda.
The driver's side head seems easy to pull...the passenger side looks impossible though, the A/C condenser is right there.
Suggestions on how to go 'bout it? Thanks a lot. And an estimate on the time it will take me to do both would be wonderful.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
Zak, the A/C condensor is not located on the engine, it's located in front of the radiator. With a "real" service book in hand, such as one from Ford or Alldata, (book is used for reference for things like head bolt torque), the job will take a long afternoon (learning curve is required). Buy quality gaskets and not ones from oriental countries.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I got the Ford service manual on CD.
My mistake on the condensor. The large, insulated box next to the passenger side head is what I meant.
Fel-pro sound good?
Thanks for the reply.
My mistake on the condensor. The large, insulated box next to the passenger side head is what I meant.
Fel-pro sound good?
Thanks for the reply.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
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From: Durham, NC
I would check the lower intake bolt torque, and gaskets first. The 4.0L of your vintage is known for this problem. Since the exhaust manifold bolts are
above the head gasket, I find it hard to believe that the head gasket leaking would get on the exhaust manifold bolts.
Oh, and the "large insulated box" is your heater core / AC evaporator box!
above the head gasket, I find it hard to believe that the head gasket leaking would get on the exhaust manifold bolts.
Oh, and the "large insulated box" is your heater core / AC evaporator box!
Last edited by Bob Ayers; Jan 21, 2007 at 05:08 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
No no sorry I was unclear in my first post. The leak is below the manifolds. I was looking at the manifold bolts when I saw the leak for the first time. I'll get a picture of it once the camera gets charged, it makes more sense visually.
I can't see the source of the leak...I can just see the trail it left.
I can't see the source of the leak...I can just see the trail it left.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,461
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From: Abilene Kansas
that one might be fun to do in the truck but i know it can be done. if the head is connected via bolts than it shouldnt be a problem. now if they are connected via studs, than it might get complicated. you should be able to unbolt the head and pry it up (GENTLY) and slide it towards where the intake was or up the deck. make sure u reset your lash with a feeler guage when you put your heads back on
Matt
Matt
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From: Moneta, VA
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Well...with the leaky rear main and the head gasket apparently only leaking fluid slowly out the side (being it's not in the oil)...I'm thinking I'll put it off until Spring Break, when the tranny was coming out to be rebuilt and have the clutch replaced, I'll yank the engine and just do it with the engine out. Heck, maybe just rebuild it for college.
As long as the coolant stays clear and the oil non-milky, it'd be ok to run it for another two months, right?
As long as the coolant stays clear and the oil non-milky, it'd be ok to run it for another two months, right?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Ya i would if ya can afford the coolent. I might even pull the rocker cover and tighten the head and intake bolts down a little. But then if ya are going to pull it in two months than just run her.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I'm 'bout to go check the torque of and tighten the lower intake bolts.
here's a couple of pics. First from the side, then from the bottom. You'll notice on the side I rubbed a small blank spot about halfway up and it hasn't been covered since I did it for whatever reason.
The antifreeze appears liquidy but it's actually a solid mossy sort of stuff, as I said. Sorry the bottom picture is blurry.
Bottom:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...leakbottom.jpg
Passenger side, through the wheel-well, just aft of the shock mount:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...zeleakside.jpg
here's a couple of pics. First from the side, then from the bottom. You'll notice on the side I rubbed a small blank spot about halfway up and it hasn't been covered since I did it for whatever reason.
The antifreeze appears liquidy but it's actually a solid mossy sort of stuff, as I said. Sorry the bottom picture is blurry.
Bottom:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...leakbottom.jpg
Passenger side, through the wheel-well, just aft of the shock mount:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...zeleakside.jpg
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,595
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From: IL
I agree, check the lower intake's torque and gasket. I have the same truck, motor as Zach except I have the auto tranny.
I recently noticed a very small coolant leak where the return line for the tranny bolts onto my radiator for its cooler. I never paid much attention to the fact that my Ranger has a plastic radiator until noticing that leak. Should be fun trying to tighten that without breaking the radiator!
I recently noticed a very small coolant leak where the return line for the tranny bolts onto my radiator for its cooler. I never paid much attention to the fact that my Ranger has a plastic radiator until noticing that leak. Should be fun trying to tighten that without breaking the radiator!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
It is coolant...but it's dry...caked on. I've no idea how long it's been on there...not many things that require you to look through that gap, plus it's a normally dark area. It was by pure luck that I noticed it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
Bob is right about retorquing the lower intake bolts in an effort to solve the leak; old/early 4.0's are vulnerable to leak issues concerning this gasket. You'll probably be surprised at just how loose these fasteners are (I always have been and the word fingertight comes to mind in a few instances). You may also be surprised to know that most engines are installed with the front slightly raised. I'd have to look at a diagram to confirm this but it's entirely possible that juice from a leaking lower intake is running to where you're finding it due to slope and windage while driving. Of course, it would be really nice for you to get in there with a flashlight and a small mirror mounted on a rod and look around the lower intake/head faying surface in an effort to positively pinpoint the leak source. And in the end, it's worth realizing that even if it is the lower intake gasket, retorquing may not solve the problem due to it leaking for awhile.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jan 22, 2007 at 08:13 PM.