Block heater install problems
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Block heater install problems
I'm not a mechanic by any means, although I like to think I have a clue. I'm trying to install a block heater on an '88 7.3L diesel. I think I spent about an hour trying to tap the freeze plug out to no avail, yes I've drained the cooling system already. I thought about taking out the starter, seeing as how it's in the way. But noticed that to of the bolts holding it in are a little out of reach. How would I get those starter bolts out? Is there another way to do this?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I use a couple rather long extensions on a 3/8" rachet. Remove the top bolt first since it is the hardest to get out.
Bottom bolt is the last one out since it is the easiest.
That way you are not having to worry about the starter falling on you when the top bolt comes out unexpectedly.
Take a punch or chisel and drive the frost plug into the engine.
Don't try to drive it in to far, the cololant passage behind the plug is only about 1" thick.
Then use pliers and remove it so it don't block a coolant passage while running the engine.
The bottom of the cooling jacket is right below the frost plug, so it will not drop down where you can not reach it.
There is also a hex head plug in the side of the block below the freeze plugs. Remove that plug and finish draining the block before you knock the freeze plug out or you will take a bath in coolant.
Bottom bolt is the last one out since it is the easiest.
That way you are not having to worry about the starter falling on you when the top bolt comes out unexpectedly.
Take a punch or chisel and drive the frost plug into the engine.
Don't try to drive it in to far, the cololant passage behind the plug is only about 1" thick.
Then use pliers and remove it so it don't block a coolant passage while running the engine.
The bottom of the cooling jacket is right below the frost plug, so it will not drop down where you can not reach it.
There is also a hex head plug in the side of the block below the freeze plugs. Remove that plug and finish draining the block before you knock the freeze plug out or you will take a bath in coolant.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Do not over tighten the new block heater screw, the oring seals it in the hole, the screw just holds the retaining ears next to the block to keep it there..
Think about.....BajaGringo Block Drains
The block drains are just 1/4"npt pet*****, available in the "HELP" section at the auto parts store. You need a 9/16" crowfoot socket that fits on a socket extension to reach in to tighten them (There's no room for a reg open end wrench). Then, cut up an old spark plug socket to fit over the petcock to loosen/tighten. Once they are loose, slip the 3/8" rubber hose over the end of the petcock and continue loosening the petcock (with the other end of hose in bucket). Intstalling these is still messy and a bit of a hassle, but NEXT TIME it'll be a lot less messy and a lot easier. Smear 'em with anti-seize to make sure they turn 'next time'. I've already had to use mine because when I had the radiator 'rodded' they didn't have the right kind of antifreeze, and I was 200 miles from home. So I needed to re-flush the system and re-DCA it. This makes saving/reusing the expensive DCAs/antifreeze possible if you use CLEAN BUCKETS. I bought a special funnel that snaps into the radiator fill, and use a metal spray paint funnel/filter/screen just to make sure nothing too big gets back in there. Yeah, I'm a little '**** retentive', that's probably why my eyes are brown. BajaGringo
Think about.....BajaGringo Block Drains
The block drains are just 1/4"npt pet*****, available in the "HELP" section at the auto parts store. You need a 9/16" crowfoot socket that fits on a socket extension to reach in to tighten them (There's no room for a reg open end wrench). Then, cut up an old spark plug socket to fit over the petcock to loosen/tighten. Once they are loose, slip the 3/8" rubber hose over the end of the petcock and continue loosening the petcock (with the other end of hose in bucket). Intstalling these is still messy and a bit of a hassle, but NEXT TIME it'll be a lot less messy and a lot easier. Smear 'em with anti-seize to make sure they turn 'next time'. I've already had to use mine because when I had the radiator 'rodded' they didn't have the right kind of antifreeze, and I was 200 miles from home. So I needed to re-flush the system and re-DCA it. This makes saving/reusing the expensive DCAs/antifreeze possible if you use CLEAN BUCKETS. I bought a special funnel that snaps into the radiator fill, and use a metal spray paint funnel/filter/screen just to make sure nothing too big gets back in there. Yeah, I'm a little '**** retentive', that's probably why my eyes are brown. BajaGringo
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