ignition woes
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Freshman User
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ignition woes
i went to start up my 1991 ranger with a 4cyl and it cranked over and continued to crank over, even with the key removed. i had to remove the negative lead on the battery to stop the cranking. the truck would fire and run when i had the ignition key in the full foward position but when i moved it back the truck would stop running and keep cranking. any ideas of what it could be? is it the ignition column? thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
If you remove the rubber boot-it just pulls off- & it still cranks as soon as you connect the battery, the problem is a stuck starter relay or a stuck starter solenoid.
If it does'nt crank when you reconnect the battery, the problem is probably a short in the ignition switch.
The wire with the rubber boot should only have voltage on it when the key is turned to the start position.
Good luck with it.
If it does'nt crank when you reconnect the battery, the problem is probably a short in the ignition switch.
The wire with the rubber boot should only have voltage on it when the key is turned to the start position.
Good luck with it.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
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From: Higginsville, MO
I say underhood starter relay is bad. I replaced mine on my Mustang with a new Borg Warner unit only to have it stick about 2 weeks later. I had to pull the battery cable to get it to stop. Pop started it and drove it home where I replaced it with the original.
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Freshman User
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i just installed a new starter solenoid and it did not change the situation. before the problems started i drove the truck for six hours. my battery light is on and i could see the amp gauge slowly charging up the truck. could it have overcharged and is sending too much current through the truck? i dont think its a stuck switch because i disconnect the negative battery lead and can reconnect it the next second and the truck wont continue to turn over on its own. what else could be the problem? thanks
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Freshman User
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i pulled the rubber boot connection and tried starting, nothing happened. when reconnected it cranked over and continued to crank. i guess my problem could be the ignition switch on the column.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Yep, it looks like theres a short in the ignition switch.
Changing the switch is very simple: remove the upper half of the plastic trim from the steering column & remove the 2 "tamper proof" screws from the switch. Channel locks will work on the screws.
Be sure to line up the hole in the new switch with the pin that sticks out of the column.
Changing the switch is very simple: remove the upper half of the plastic trim from the steering column & remove the 2 "tamper proof" screws from the switch. Channel locks will work on the screws.
Be sure to line up the hole in the new switch with the pin that sticks out of the column.
bones does it again
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Freshman User
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so i got the part, the ignition switch, but i cannot locate it on my truck, i removed the plastic on the column and did not see it, i followed the wire that goes from the igniton cylinder and it got lost above the fuse panel. i have the really cheap version of this truck and it does not have a tilt wheel, where is this part? im confused. thanks
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i wasnt really concerned with the model after researching the product i found it is similar in many ford vehicles. but i did find where it is located on the truck, it was just further down the column than i expected, itll be a little tight but ive definatley had worse. ill let you guys know how it works..........if it works. thanks a bunch 87xlt