Adding overload springs
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 246
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From: MT
Adding overload springs
My SD already has one oem set of overloads but I was wondering if anyone has added another oem set on top..I am also thinking of adding longer bump stops to help engage the overloads sooner..Trying to stop that saggy rear look when I have the atv's loaded..I am sure someone will suggest Timbrens, not interested..Trying to avoid airbags, concerned about failure..Not that there seems to be a lot of that..Supersprings are probably the way I will go if the above idea is a bad one.. I have used the "search" and can't quite find what I am looking for so if anyone has done this let me know how it went..Thanks..
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
From: 39 24'34.8" N 88 47'51" W
Air bag is the only way to go. I have used them for the past 15 years and not one problem. I have used AirLift and Monroe. I can't imagine two set of overload springs to help level the rear. Must ride like a log wagon. With AirLift and the smart valve, add weight and the on-board compressor will add air to raise the rear of the truck. Remove the weight and the truck returns to normal ride height and still have a smooth ride.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Northeast PA, USA, Earth
This is something I've wanted to do for some time. Air bags don't interest me, I just would like 'something' to beef up the overload spring and bring it a tad closer to the spring perches.
Wonder if putting an add-a-leaf under the overload would be a good choice... Would add some thickness to the top of the pack, which would get it closer to engagement.
Such a setup would be fiddle free. I load and unload my truck frequently, and I"d prefer not to have to add and remove air when doing so.
Somebody here MUST have done something similar. If not, I'm going to give it a shot this spring (HA!) and report back on how it works.
Wonder if putting an add-a-leaf under the overload would be a good choice... Would add some thickness to the top of the pack, which would get it closer to engagement.
Such a setup would be fiddle free. I load and unload my truck frequently, and I"d prefer not to have to add and remove air when doing so.
Somebody here MUST have done something similar. If not, I'm going to give it a shot this spring (HA!) and report back on how it works.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 246
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From: MT
Heavy-I have thought of your 2 suggestions also, I think the stealership said it was about $400+ for the springs..Don't know if I want a stiffer ride when empty..Lowering the spring bumpers would be like raising the springs themselves..Thinking of pulling out the 1/2" bumpers and putting in 2"-2 1/2" bumpers..Some people over at rv.net have done this and it seems to work for them..Just haven't found anything about doubling up on the overloads yet..
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
There's 3 different designs on the 99-04 Super Duty overload system with the way the spacer plate and overload leaf is setup. If the design is with one bolt going through the entire system then you're ok but if the overload is seperate from the main stack then you're gonna have problems because there's a nipple on the spacer plate and it won't be long enough for an extra leaf. Your best bet to avoid sag would be to add a leaf in the rear and go right at the source of the problem rather than playing around with the overload. Airbags are ok but nothing beats an extra leaf in the suspension. Just stick around a 401 gauge so the ride will stay smooth
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Whats wrong with timbrens? They don't fail and they are lifetime anyway. 20 mins to bolt em up and you'll never worry again.I carry 6000lbs in my truck in the winter the rear goes down an inch and no more. rides good too. I don't see any negatives but thats my opinion.
Dick
Dick
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 246
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From: MT
With timbrens most of the weight that is being supported is concentrated in one area of the frame..With springs the weight would be better distributed along the frame..At least that is my thinking..LOL..
Pretty much given up on doubling the overloads..So I think I will go with 350 blocks and extending the overload bumpstops..
Pretty much given up on doubling the overloads..So I think I will go with 350 blocks and extending the overload bumpstops..
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 417
Likes: 7
From: Olympic Peninsula, WA USA
I have the Firestone airbags on my truck and love them. NO problems. I had them on my last truck also. But you don't want those.
Here's what I'd do in your situation. Get some hockey pucks and replace the overload spring bumper with however many pucks you need to get the overload contact you want. Just drill a hole through the center of the pucks and bolt them in place. (You'll need to counterbore the puck that contacts the spring so that the bolt head is recessed). Then report back how it works. I've heard of someone doing this, but haven't actually heard any feedback.
Here's what I'd do in your situation. Get some hockey pucks and replace the overload spring bumper with however many pucks you need to get the overload contact you want. Just drill a hole through the center of the pucks and bolt them in place. (You'll need to counterbore the puck that contacts the spring so that the bolt head is recessed). Then report back how it works. I've heard of someone doing this, but haven't actually heard any feedback.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 246
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From: MT
Stacking pucks??..LOL..If I wanted to use wood I would use a big slab of oak or some such hard wood that might not break as quickly..I too have heard of people stacking pucks for bumpstops, also using that plastic wood people use for decks, I have also heard of them breaking also..Wood for bumpstops, LOL..
As for the airbags, to me it is just one more thing that would really cause problems if it failed in the middle of nowhere..And with my luck that has a much better chance of happening..
As for the airbags, to me it is just one more thing that would really cause problems if it failed in the middle of nowhere..And with my luck that has a much better chance of happening..
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 229
From: Gulf Coast, FL
FORDFAN: The actual spring rate isn't that great a difference. I'll get the data for you later. I understand the cost point of this topic. I'd love to have the best solution be a cheap one but we all know things don't work that way.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 229
From: Gulf Coast, FL
FORDFAN: Go to this link:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckBBAS...001/specs.html
Select the 2001 Super Duty and save the .PDF file.
Page 58 will have the info regarding the spring rate for your truck.
I'm not suggesting that this allows you to exceed the rated capacity of your truck. Swapping the springs would prevent the sagging look when loaded with gear.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckBBAS...001/specs.html
Select the 2001 Super Duty and save the .PDF file.
Page 58 will have the info regarding the spring rate for your truck.
I'm not suggesting that this allows you to exceed the rated capacity of your truck. Swapping the springs would prevent the sagging look when loaded with gear.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 246
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From: MT
Heavy, each overload spring rate is 518 lbs..The main springs are 6084 for the 250, 6830 for the 350 srw, and 8250 for the 350 drw..This is from fleetford.com, I don't want to start another "what is the diff between 250 and 350" so blame them if the numbers are wrong..I have already looked at that..I was going with airbags, have the money set aside for that, but talked myself out of them..The heavier springs will probably give a rougher ride when empty, not what I am looking for..If I wanted to do cheap I would do the hockey puck thing..lmao..I am not trying to be cheap (and I am not saying that you are calling me cheap) I am just trying to do something where I will be happy..Less the chance of things breaking the happier I am..LOL..