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99 E-150, 4.2, 180,000 and was going strong until ??? Its only running on 5 cyl....#2 is not firing. This has been for over a year. When 1st happened took it to Ford. They said it needed an engine. No house payment from me to that service writer. Plugs have been done (motorcraft) Coil, Wires, injector, O2 sensors (all of them) Has 150 compression and all other cyl are good. Been well maintained 3 to 5 thousand. Blows no oil, no water in oil. My mechanic is lost, no leaks vaccum or other wise, no head gasket leak. Starts right up and when you hit 35 to 50 it shakes rattles and rolls. Give it more gas and its fine at 60, 65, 70. Must be a FREEWAY Only Vehicle. Burns more gas then before the incident. Any suggestions from anyone. I am a DIY kinda guy. NEED HELP
OK, for a leak down test you turn that cylinder to TDC with the compression gauge installed in the sparkplug hole and see how long it holds the compression. That gives you a better idea of the cylinder's integrity. A weak cylinder may not show up on the standard compression test.
Did you do the KOER test with a scanner? The cylinder balance test would find a weak cylinder that way too.
Okay there were some issues with the 4.2 V6. To hear that it needs a new engine is not that uncommon. A lot of them failed with less than 30k on them. What happens is the cams were breaking on the early ones. With over 180k miles on it you've definitely gotten your money's worth out of the truck. I'd trade it in on a new one.
Thats the perfect fix I know. With it running like that I wouldn't get a fair shake. Plus to put a decent rebuilt in it and have no PAYMENT is HEAVEN. Maybe I will just look at a rebuilt. Any suggestions !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
there was a big problem for the 97-98 4.2's but it wouldn't surprise me if it made it into your year, especialy if it was an early build. It seems the intake gasket would leak coolant into #2 intake runner. Usualy it hydralocks that cylinder but maybe yours isn"t that bad (yet) .Is the plug exceptionaly clean (#2)?
if you can get a cooling system testor, pressurize the cooling system and let set an hour or so, see if it looses pressure. then check #2 to see if it's getting wet
When I first changed the plugs there was an exceptional build up of "carbon" I call it, was black and real hard. Changed the plug and it was fine for 3 months. Then I heard about seafoam. I dropped some in the tank and when I pulled the plug it was fine no build-up, clean plug. Its running kinda rough right now and I'll put a plug in it and its not the best running but its better for another say 2 months. Better gas mileage at least......................???????????????????? But like I said no oil burning or water in oil. I use this thing every day.
Just because you're not getting water in the oil or vice-versa doesn't mean it's not leaking into the cylinder.. It could just be a small enough amount that it's burning it off. I had a chebby 3.8 (229ci) do this to me, I got a bad set of intake gaskets... I'd do a WET and a DRY compression test and note any variations between cylinders. A good reman motor will cost ~$2000 or more.
I can say no we are trying here......coolant hasn't moved in a year....BUT I always get moisture from the tail pipe and it is black inside it..... any help there for you there.....
Hmm... It almost makes me wonder if it's not got a vacuum leak under the intake. See what your mechanic would charge to change the intake gaskets. Also is the PCV system in good shape?
Oh and since I've forgotten the last couple of posts, Welcome to FTE! We're the best Ford Truck site on the web.
Is it giving any codes? Has the Throttle position sensor been checked? The speed sensor? If so, This is sounding like a collapsed lifter or flat spot on the cam. I know there are no vaccuum leaks, but was the needle on the dial erratic at all?
In all my infinite wisdom maybe its time for a rebuilt engine. The body has not a "ding or dent" on it" the inside is clean. I did some serious thought 24 grand for a new van give or take, maybe 4000 grand on a trade-in....IS CAR PAYMENT. VS a rebuilt engine......doesn't take rocket scienece to figure that out. Hate like heck go through a Intake Gasket, or lifter replaced with this many miles. So who sells a GOOD REBUILT ENGINE. Now I will have to find someone that doesn't do a cob-job to put it in. Chilton flat rate I figure 1100 to install.
That's a toss up. Is there a local race track? If so go on a friday night and ask the drivers who does they're work for them. Most of them are going to tell you they do, but be persistent find out who does the machine work. That's the place I'd call about it. They'll be able to get everything you'd need and offer advice. You're mechanic SHOULD be able to rebuild your current engine.. IF he can't it's time to find a new one.