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I don't use k&n filters anymore myself, I have a k&N intake, but an AEM filter, they just pass to much dirt for my likeing. For sure buddy, we don't want to get the k&n thing going again ha ha.
Ok, we all have had some fun with the tornado, so maybe we can come to some good suggestions about how to increase fuel mileage. I keep hearing people in the forum talk about headers and intakes increasing fuel mileage...
Dave
I have real dyno data on my truck that says the headers actually hurt torque and horsepower under 3000 rpm. Not coincidentally, I am now getting slightly lower mileage than I was before the headers. The airbox mod is so slight that there is no significant performance or mileage impact.
The reason the tuners can get more power and more mileage is not because they put in more fuel or more air, but rather because they change the timing. If you are running in closed loop (14.7:1 af), the sensors are going to demand that the af ratio stays correct. The only thing you can do at that point (without mechanical changes to the engine) is to change the timing. If you advance the timing as far as you can without detonation, you will almost always have the most torque output from the engine (increased engine efficiency) and this is how the tuner gets more performance. The risk is you put too much timing and have detonation and destroy the engine. The factory tunes are a little conservative for a bunch of reasons, so the tuners can add some timing without having you destroy the engine (if you aren't stupid.) The timing maps on a ecu controlled engine are much more complex than the old mechanical advance distributors, so there is opportunity to make it a little better with the tune, but also more opportunity to screw it up, which is why tuning should be done by someone who knows and understands what he/she is doing.
You're assuming that cars run at 100% VE. In reality, most engines are between 75-85% VE at best. So being able to increase the VE will indeed give you better mileage.
Devices such as the "Tornado" don't work because any effect because as soon as the air gets to the throttle plate, it will straighten the air. Not to mention the ram air effect of the intake runners on a fuel injected engine causes the air to revert direction briefly. Any air rotation is quickly nullified in the intake system.
But Ruby, remember the guy over at rps that was whinning because he dynoed his 4.0 ohv and only got an addition 25 hp after doing headers, intake, bama, e-fan and I'm not for sure if that was all, or whatever. So I would say it depends on the engine and not as a general rule. Awhile back 4-wheel offroad mag, put an k&N intake on a jeep grand cherokee with a v8 and dynoed and got 20 hp increase, so k&n used that for thier poster child for awhile. The 5.0 mustang guy's swore by a set of headers and an offroad pipe for 20. It depends on the engine and how restrictive exhaust manifolds, or airboxes are from the factory. The ranger happens to have a decent airbox and the ranger 4.0 sohc according to super six motorsports, has a decent exhaust manny's, except one side, I forget which one, but one side was a little restrictive , but not bad. The later ranger lima 4 bangers had a factory header more or less, on my 01, it looked like a header. The duratec focus has a very restrictive airbox and exhaust manifold, thier tuned for 0 emissions. An intake and header on a duratec focus can really bump the numbers. It depends on the engine.
“You're assuming that cars run at 100% VE. In reality, most engines are between 75-85% VE at best. So being able to increase the VE will indeed give you better mileage.”
I don’t understand, say the engine is running at 50% VE. (Or whatever) And the intake improves it to 55%. That would mean that your putting more air into the engine on each revolution. So your have to add more fuel to keep the air/fuel mixture at optimum (about 14 to 1) for best combustion efficiently.
Now at 60 mph your turning the same number of revolutions per mile as before, but your putting more air and fuel through the engine. So you producing more HP but your also using more fuel. At any given speed your using more fuel. So where are the fuel savings?
The secret to exhaust/intake mods is tuning. The system has to be "tuned" for the results you want.
Horsepower comes with rpm: HP=torqueXrpm/5252, so when quoting horsepower gains you will generally be talking about a higher rpm operating band.
You put big headers on with larger exhaust, lower end suffers, top end gains. This has to do with gas velocity, not backpressure. Most try to interchange the two terms. Many do the same with horsepower/torque. They say horsepower when actually they are describing torque loss/gain.
You can't just put on a set of headers, do a dyno run, and say headers don't work because you didn't get the results you expected. It's a matter of balance.
I don't know if this relates much to the subject but I know a couple guys that created some sort of resistance circuit that bypasses their O2 sensors (or simulates their sensors). Its hard to explain considering I don't know exactly how they did it but figured you guys might know what I am talking about. Basically they got a switch and it makes the engine operate as if it was just turned on and still below operating temp.
Is this hard on the motor? Because it is a noticable difference in the way the engine revs and noticable difference in power. I looked for this subject and found nothing.
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