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The Detroit Locker is somewhat unique because the unlock is caused by the outside wheel speeding up because of outside forces (like a corner). Lack of traction has no influence on the gear set.
I called my local Ford dealer for the price/availabilty of a factory LS and was told that you cannot buy it anymore. you can buy parts for it and could assemble one yourself, but would be expensive as you are building it from parts. Anyone know if/where they are still available?
Also, I understand that the Detoit Locker is arguably the most durable locker on the market. I further understand that it is fully locked going straight, but unlocks in turns. As Eaton puts it: "The Detroit Locker maximizes traction by delivering 100% of the torque to both drive wheels. It is engineered to keep both wheels in a constant drive mode, and has the ability to automatically allow wheel speed differentiation when required." So I don't understan what there is to get used to when driving with the Detroit Locker. Somebody please explain. Thanks.
An LS set up right is very good in an daily driver. Mine is excellent in snow, mud ect.
My FJ40 runs a Detroit out back and an ARB up front. The Detroit has poor road manners and I would not put one in my street truck. The ARB is excellent.
If I could afford it I would run ARB air lockers front and rear of all my trucks.
In a large truck like a super duty you hardly know the detroit is back there. As far as manners its really nice knowing if you hammer it and one tire is in the sand you will take off instead of spinning. Plus the newer detroit soft locker is much better than the original. I've had mine for 3 years.
My 06' F-350,has the LS,,and well lets say it could work better,,has about 19k miles now,,,,,What brand gear lube you guys recommend to change over too ??
I was at Wally World yesterday,,I found some Rotella 85-140W,,and said nothing about LS unit on the label,,,,while there "Tech" gear lube mentioned working in a LS unit,,,,,whats a good brand of gear lube to start with, to make this LS unit hook-up ?
OK - I am officially an idiot. I was looking at buying a new LS or locker for the rear and guess what? I already have one. Look at the tag on the diff and if it says "L" it is a limited slip. So, I'll be trying the friction modifier trick first, before I replace anything.
My F-350 had open diffs from the factory and after several stucks off-road with one tire at each end in the air spinning I added limited slips. They are fine in town but when I start to really work them they quit. After a few minutes of tough going I am back to open diffs... I will soon be adding a Detroit to my rear! Not sure about the front though.
My F-350 had open diffs from the factory and after several stucks off-road with one tire at each end in the air spinning I added limited slips. They are fine in town but when I start to really work them they quit. After a few minutes of tough going I am back to open diffs... I will soon be adding a Detroit to my rear! Not sure about the front though.
Oh yea another one doin the man thing..LOL gettin rid of the junk..
Don't forget to get new bearings for the carrier. If you need any install info just email me. Your gonna love the detroit. I put the lock right in front it works fine. Front diff had to come out. D50
OK - I am officially an idiot. I was looking at buying a new LS or locker for the rear and guess what? I already have one. Look at the tag on the diff and if it says "L" it is a limited slip. So, I'll be trying the friction modifier trick first, before I replace anything.
Don't feel that way at all! Just this week I discovered that the tag under the bolt on my diff. cover showed completely different gears than the door tag. Took it to a dealer, and they discovered that someone had put the wrong tag on the bolt. Door sticker said it was a 3.73 non-ls, the tag on the cover said it was a 3.55 ls 9 3/4 (not big enough for an F250.) The door tag was right. It is a 3.73 non-ls Sterling 10.5". Apparently the former owner had the rear-end fluid changed or work done there, and they grabbed the wrong tag to put back on it.
Dick - am I reading this right? You swapped out your D50? What did you put it in a D60 and if so how did the swap go?
From day one when I bought my 2001 SD with the Dana 50, I have kept constant watch on anyone talking about swapping in a Dana 60 (or better yet, a Super 60).
As far as I can tell, from 2000 up, the swap is a total bolt-in - as long as you are bolting in the entire front-end, and not trying to put in a Dana 60 ring and pinion
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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