Hey, everyone. I have a 1991 E350 motorhome chassis. 7.5L V8, E4OD.

The air conditioning system in the engine is basically shot. I had it filled and tested once, and they said there are multiple leaks and the compressor is making noise. I didn't have them fix anything, since I have a rooftop air conditioner and generator, but it is something I'd like to fix eventually.

Well...lately I've been noticing a new squealing noise from the engine bay, and some inspection leads me to think that it's coming from the compressor (I intend to pull the belt off this weekend and check for play, but I'm pretty confident that's the source of the noise). I keep the engine A/C off (including defrost), so I don't know if I'm looking at a clutch or entire compressor - but since the compressor is now the source of two different noises, I'm thinking I might as well just replace the whole thing, especially since I can get them relatively cheaply.

However - the other components are still going to be in bad shape, so I'm thinking I might as well go total replacement, figuring that most of the system is probably just as beat up (right?) as the compressor and hoses are. Also, I'm assuming the system is completely empty at this point.

Here are my questions:
1. Is it worthwhile to replace it with stock/oem equivalent components (new evaporator, new condensor, new dryer, new hoses)?
2. Or is there some second option that I'm unaware of?
3. I've seen on Ford parts sites that I can buy the hoses individually, but are there kits available that would have all the hoses?
4. How much money total am I looking at for parts, assuming I do all the replacement work (not filling the system but replacing the components) myself?
5. Are the evaporator and condensor parts that frequently leak? It looks like they're $100-$150 each, but there appear to be evaporator repair kits available for under $20. I'm not exactly flush with cash, but on the other hand I'd like to have it working reliably - is there a good way to tell if the evap or condensor needs to be replaced (other than filling it with refrigerant and watching for leaks)?

After I finish replacing everything, I'd get a shop to test and fill it with R-12/R-134a. (Probably the latter - much cheaper, even though I'll loose some cooling power. But the purpose of this system is just to keep the front cool, not to cool the entire vehicle.)

I need to learn more about the air conditioning systems vehicles use - I have a Chilton's manual for it but it basically says "pay someone to work on that system".

I would appreciate any advice you can give me here, especially if you've gone through something similar. At this point I'm just planning my attack for the springtime, and I'm trying to figure out how much money and work I'm looking at.

Thanks!

 

Update: I pulled the belt off the compressor today and spun it by hand. With the clutch disengaged, there's definitely a spot where the resistance increases dramatically. I'm not sure if that's normal or not. I can hear it slightly rubbing there, too - sounds like a metal-on-metal sound. It's very quiet when I'm spinning it by hand.

I started the engine with the belt off and heard no squealing, so I was pretty certain I'd found my culprit. Then I replaced the belt and restarted the engine... no squealing. None. I drove it for 10 or 15 miles, at different throttle positions, and it was fine. I'm at a loss...if anyone can help explain why the noise I'd heard went away, I'd be very thankful. And will it come back? (I'm figuring "yes".)

(I did not turn on the A/C at all during my drive today.)

 

Deleted,posting error

 

I used to try and save much as you are doing . I found over time that the failure rates were higher than with OEM or parts the AC man has learned to trust. If any of the parts fail that you supply or assemble he will likely claim no responsibility for anything he did on your AC.You might want to ask an AC man concerning your plan and see what he says before making your decision. I would expect him to not even do the job with your supplied parts and labor,because any flaw in your parts or labor will be the weak link for both of you . In your situation, as you relayed it,i would do without the AC until you can justify the cost of the AC man doing all labor and parts. Your plan, as stated ,could easily end up costing you a bunch more.

 

replace the compressor and accumulator
R134 retro fittings, ester oil and 80% charge of r134
an auxillary electric pusher fan in front of the condenser helps in hot slow traffic.

The rest is fine.