Distributor Problems - HELP!!!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Distributor Problems - HELP!!!
I pulled the distributor on an 88 4wd 2.9 ranger to change the ignition module since it was tight to the firewall and had some bushings in the bolts holes that blocked the 5.5mm driver from getting in there. It came right out and I swapped the ignition module out. When I tried to put it back in it won't go all the way down about a 1/4". I can feel the cam just starting to engage the distributor gear. The oil pump drive shaft looks centered. I've turned the engine over by hand forward and backward and pushing the distributor down. I've tried having someone bumping the engine while pushing down. Nothing. It just won't go. I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions, ideas, tricks???
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by MikeInJuneau; Jan 16, 2007 at 11:17 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
If you are SURE that it is in the right way, you can bump the crankshaft over with the starter while pushing GENTLY on the dist body. It may plunk down when there is some resistance built up in the oil pump as pressure builds.
tom
p.s. Disconnect the wires to the dist while cranking so's it doesn't start... t
tom
p.s. Disconnect the wires to the dist while cranking so's it doesn't start... t
Last edited by tomw; Jan 17, 2007 at 07:25 AM. Reason: spelling
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Tried it again. Same thing. Still won't seat all the way. Bumping the engine or turning the engine by hand while pushing, turning, wiggling on the distributor and still won't go. Gear, cam, and oil drive all look fine. WTF?? I've pulled distributors countless times and have never encountered this.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Heck, take it out and throw it away. You don't need that. You can still sit in the drivers seat and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth going 'vrooom vroom vroom --- errrr crash bang!' You can even turn all the ***** on the radio back, and move all the Heat/ac levers and buttons. See, a truck is still good for something even if it doesn't run!!!
heh.
Take it out and inspect the end of the pump drive shaft. Inspect the inside of the dist shaft. One or both most likely have worn corners, and do not 'slide' around enough to let you slip them together.
You cannot 'bump' the engine enough to build up enough resistance to make the pump shaft sit 'still' while the dist still turns. You have to pull the plugs and crank that baby over to get a load on the pump so it will overcome the friction and stay still enough to let the dist drop.
OR, you can try to use the MK1 Mod 0 eyeball. Sight on the pump hex. Figure out where the dist hex will be when it reaches that spot. Move either one (hah!) to get them to line up so the shafts will mate. You can turn the crank -> cam by hand to get the 'meeting' spot better lined up.
tom
heh.
Take it out and inspect the end of the pump drive shaft. Inspect the inside of the dist shaft. One or both most likely have worn corners, and do not 'slide' around enough to let you slip them together.
You cannot 'bump' the engine enough to build up enough resistance to make the pump shaft sit 'still' while the dist still turns. You have to pull the plugs and crank that baby over to get a load on the pump so it will overcome the friction and stay still enough to let the dist drop.
OR, you can try to use the MK1 Mod 0 eyeball. Sight on the pump hex. Figure out where the dist hex will be when it reaches that spot. Move either one (hah!) to get them to line up so the shafts will mate. You can turn the crank -> cam by hand to get the 'meeting' spot better lined up.
tom
