It seems like a 'no brainer' - but allowing for Brain Pharts, I thought I'd ask before just swapping out the pan and instaling the new one and filling it up!

Are there any "tricks" to installing the Deep transmission pan on the tranny?

I need a new internal filter from Ford before I start?

Should it have a longer pickup tube so it reaches deeper into the pan now theres more oil in there?

Is there an easier way to get the new oil into the pan than down the dipstick tube with a squeeze bottle? (I alwasy seem to make a heck of a mess!)

Just draining the pan of old trans oil before I start, doesn't seem to get rid of the old tranny oil in the TC... but I've been advised by mechanic Bro In law who used to build auto trans for a living, under no circumstance to start truck and allow tranny oil pump to empty TC as risk of fatal damage to tranny is immense!

Suck it out? Blow it out with air?
Just don't worry bout it?

Someone must know the "easey way" to do this!

I'd like to go to synthetic tranny oil - but have been advised again by bro in law, not too - because of the issue of mixing synthetic with the dino tranny oil still left inside the TC!

Is there a right or wrong way method 'sequence" to do this?

Considering I have a aftermarket oil cooler to install, and a inline tranny oil filter from LIPD (when it gets here) and a trans temp gauge as well...is there a method / sequence that should be employed, where less tranny oil is wasted, by doing it all at once, or do it in stages, to bleed the air out better/easier etc?

I'm open to suggestions!

Thanks in advance!

Cheers!

 

Are there any "tricks" to installing the Deep transmission pan on the tranny?

prety strait forward..just unbolt do what you got to do and re bolt.

Should it have a longer pickup tube so it reaches deeper into the pan now theres more oil in there?

if you can get one use it..but the stock filter will still pick up the oil..

Is there an easier way to get the new oil into the pan than down the dipstick tube with a squeeze bottle? (I alwasy seem to make a heck of a mess!)

i have a funnel that i clamped on a long rubber gass line too.. stick it in the dip stick and poor away..i eaven added a hook to hand it from the hood while i was pooring..

Just draining the pan of old trans oil before I start, doesn't seem to get rid of the old tranny oil in the TC... but I've been advised by mechanic Bro In law who used to build auto trans for a living, under no circumstance to start truck and allow tranny oil pump to empty TC as risk of fatal damage to tranny is immense!

some trans have a plug on the tc you can pull to drain it out..but you can unhook the feed line and start your truck to get it out..it wont hurt any thing as long as you dont run it long or shift the trans..blow air through the line to get oil out of the cooler too.

I'd like to go to synthetic tranny oil - but have been advised again by bro in law, not too - because of the issue of mixing synthetic with the dino tranny oil still left inside the TC!

i was advised by BTS when inatalling my VB not to use that..on an old trans it is too slick for the cluches and make it wear out faster

Considering I have a aftermarket oil cooler to install, and a inline tranny oil filter from LIPD (when it gets here) and a trans temp gauge as well...is there a method / sequence that should be employed, where less tranny oil is wasted, by doing it all at once, or do it in stages, to bleed the air out better/easier etc?

you can do it in steps..you might loos very little oil while doing it..just make sure she is full be for you take off down the road.

some place on here is a how to flush your tran..when i find it ill post it for ya..

 

lol found it..in my sig you will see common mods and mantence..click on it and find ATF change...real good instuction there and always change the filter when you go in there..for the price of one it wont hurt to do so..good luck..

 

Thanks indeed!

Cheers!

 

some trans have a plug on the tc you can pull to drain it out..but you can unhook the feed line and start your truck to get it out..it wont hurt any thing as long as you dont run it long or shift the trans..blow air through the line to get oil out of the cooler too.

im sorry i miss lead you here.. just fallow the instuction on ATF change in my common mods...soory man....

 

OK, I've read the post on common mods about the method for changing the transmission oil, and it goes against something explained to me at length by Bro in Law!

I'll detail it here and let others decide which method they thinks appropriate!

Background:-
Bro in Law is 40 and a Mechanic all his life!
Started his apprenticeship in a auto trans rebuild factory and almost served it out (4 years) before a severe allergic reaction to ATF caused dematitis so bad his hands and arms shed all the skin to the point of needing skin grafts later in life! Anyway he finnished final year of apprenticeship in general automotive mechanical trade (avoidong ATF lique the plague!).

One of his jobs in those 3 years was test running rebuilt Auto trans on a test bench before they were despatched to customers! They had an engine with multipoint adaptors for attaching different brand trannys - and a friction clutch assembly to apply loads to the output shafts of the transmissions, as they were run up thru the rpms and loadings - the kickdown switch activated etc!

Anyway - one of the critical failure points for trannys was a hydraulically lubricated bush where the input shafty of the transmission locks into the torque converter! (Thats the one with a couple big dog teeth on the end of the round input shaft!)

That bush in the TC is apparently lubricated with AFT under pressure from the tranny oil pump, it's like a floating bush with the pressurised ATF keeping the bush lubricated and away from the shaft!

Supposedly what would happen to sometimes an average of two rebuilt trannys a day, was a momentary lack of any ATF oil pressure to that bush can allow it to grab on the input shaft and spin the bush in it's TC housing sending metal particles from the bush and TC housing back thru the transmission, & valve bodies etc etc - requiring it to be stripped cleaned and reassembled again!

To the issue!

The method described in the common mods posting for changing ATF suggests both draining the TC on pre 01? trannys or disconnecting the fluid return line and allowing the pump to remove the oil in the TC until you see air in the line - and worst of all - moving the transmission thru the various gear positions for 5 seconds per gear to remove the oil from each respective gear valve body!

Apparently it is precisely this maneouver that CAN if your the unlucky one allow the hydralically lubricated bush in the TC to grab and spin in it's TC housing and if it does your TC & Tranny are toast due to the metal particles that result!

This is just how it was explained to me by someone spent considerable time rebuilding trannys for a living!

I've repeated it to the best of my memory...not exactly word for word and I am not a tranny rebuild specialist so take it for what its worth and assess it on it's merits!

I will do a little more research before I head down this particular tranny oil change path!

It would be great if someone like Brian from BTS could chime in with his experience!

Cheers!

 

^
Anyone???

 

try this one

http://www.7point3.com/Writeups/TransFlush.aspx

 

As sated above, I'm being told emphaticaly NOT to do this step under any circumstance!

Ive explained why!

Are there members here in numbers who have used this method sucessfully & repeatedly and not sufffered problems with spinning the TC bush in it's housing as a result?

I'd really like some confidence in this well intentioned advice before I accept it!

Cheers!

 

the way i did mine was drain refill with 7 quarts start truck shift through gears shut off truck and drain again then did my vb swap....i never did it this way but i think when you start to see air in the tube..thats the end of the old oil..right after the air is the new oil in the tc...it never gets drained cause you shut her down so it is still in the trans...dont take my word on it though...like i said i never did it this way....

 

I've done it the way listed in the trans flush instructions posted by Ron's power stroke 4 times. I have not had any problems. The way I understand the flow in the 4R100 trannys (and I am by no means a tranny expert) is that the fluid moves from the torque converter to the radiator cooler, then to the tranny cooler and back to the rear of the tranny. As you add tranny fluid into the dipstick tube you are adding it into the pan. So the TQ should never be out of fluid if you are following the correct steps and refilling the tranny pan full of fluid.

I have a 2WD F-250 and I was advised by a Ford Master Tech & tranny specialist to use the 4WD tranny filter. Same dimensions as the 2WD filter it just has a longer neck that reaches deeper into the pan. You can compare them side by side at the parts store and you will see what I am talking about.

I would also recommend removing the tranny cooler lines at the radiator & tranny cooler and blowing them out real good. Over time crap can build up in there and slow the fluid flow down.

Hope this info helps....

 

Thanks indeed fella's - yes it is actually starting to make sense!

Sometimes I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed and this is one of them days - I'm pretty cautious, specially since I have nearly Aus$100k in this truck so far, I can't afford to get it wrong so to speak!!

Many thanks for your patent yet thorough explanations - I am still leanring!

Cheers!

 

I was in the same boat not to long ago . Last week I spent 2 days hunting down a clog in the radiator where the tranny fluid lines run through. Drove me batty!

 

OK I have some photo's I'll upload in a moment or so - but I need some sage advice first!

I'm at the point where I've drained and removed the old transmission pan!

Yes it had a heap of fine powder type metal particles all over the nice big round magnet around the drain plug hole!

I'm told this is normal for 60,000 miles and nothing to be too concerned about if there aren't big metal shavings in there and there wasn't!

It was so fine as to be of the consistency of almost grease!
It was about 1/8th inch deep all over the magnet!
Heres my question/dilemma!

The replacement deep alloy ban from BD Power (Canada) has a magnetic drain plug with a small magnet inside it!

In the bottom of the pan however is a moulded shape (bump/pedestal) in the position where the original drain plug with it's big round strong magnet would have been!

It is just the right size and shape to sit the old magnet out of the metal pan over to locate it on the bottom of the pan roughly where it would have been in the old metal pan in relation to the transmission working parts - only a little deeper away now from the valve bodys etc (like 6 inches!).

So - my question is - should I recover the magnet out of the old pan - and clean it (as I have) and sit it over this alloy pedestal moulded into the bottom of the new deep alloy pan, one would imagine cast specifically for this purpose?

Unlike the metal pan, it wont magnetise to the bottom of the alloy pan - however, that said the pedestal does locate it suc that it won't slide around & it's unlikely to "jump" 6 inches upward - to the underside of the transmission from the bottom of the pan - (unless I fly air borne off the top of sand dunes, or roll her on her roof in which case the transmission pan will be the least of my worries, both of which is pretty unlikely the way I drive)!

Even if it did somehow migrate to the underside of the transmission - from what I saw in there, most of the valve bodys etc are all alloy anyway and theres only the steel bolts it could choose to stick too in that unlikely event - i.e. I couldn't see it adversely affecting the operation of the tranny in any way even if it mirgated upwards against gravity!

What worries me is the "destructions" that came with the kit do NOT make ANY mention of doing this step...they leave it out completely..no mention made of re using the old magnet.

I guess with the new one, each time you change fluid, your removing the magnetic drain plug and thus removing the metal particles to be wiped clean, so helping to keep the metal out of the system...while a big magnet in there permanently wouldnt be cleaned until the next time you dropped the pan for whatever reason!

Yes the alloy deep pan has a small (read weak) drain plug magnet, but having seen what came out of the pan after 60,000 miles - I'd really like to see the larger magnet sitting in the bottom, on that moulded locating pedestal to collect the maximum possible metal particles if it isn't likely to cause me any great grief down the track!

I figure with more oil in the system, the more magnetic surface area I have in the pan to attract and keep the ferrous metal particles OUT of circulation the better!

It's quite obvious from the state of the trans fluid and the state of the magnet in the old pan, that an auto trans / torque converter does generate quite a lot of small fine metal particles over the course of it's life, and I figure these can't be good for the transmission if they arent contained around the magnet and that more magnet has to be better than not enough!

My only concern is - anchoring it there more permanently!

Could I for example - epoxy it in place over that cast alloy pedestal / locator pin in the bottom of the new pan to obviate any movement - or might the expoxy break down in trans fluid under heat and go thru the tranny and gum up all the valve bodies!

Would it be OK just to let it sit there under gravity and do it's job?!

I COULD maybe attach one of my nyobium/boron rare earth extra strong magnets to the OUTSIDE of the pan in the same location such that the two of them (one outside the pan & one inside) attract to each other thru the alloy of the pan and each helps keep the other more permanently in place.

Decisions decisions - it SEEMS to me like the big magnet ought go BACK into the new pan - or else why cast the flamin lil pedestalk thingy into the bottom in the first place. It's too far away to be a support for the oil filter pickup tube and the kit has a bracket you install for just the purpose of keeping the filter retained in place anyway!

I'll get sopme pics up so you can see what I mean!
Anyone walked this rice paper trail ahead of me?
Many thanks in advance for wise guidance!

Cheers

 

I would get ahold of the maker of the new pan and ask them if that spot was intended for the factory magnet and if so how they recomend securing it in there. They will know and be able to tell you exactly what to do if that spot was in fact intended for that purpose. I have used this link to flush the tranny fluid https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...nsmission.htmlDon't know if that is the one that you are using but i added fluid and ran the truck like they say with the return line off the trans and let the old fluid drain into a pail. Then add more new fluid and repeat till it was flushed. Worked fine. Goodluck