I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction with my 96 ford f-150 long bed 5.8 liter v-8 2 wheel drive automatic with electronic o/d standard cab truck with 2 fuel tanks.

My issue is 2 parts. #1 the truck is very hard to start ( not normal, even worse in 30 degree weather ) but i have figured out the trick, if i turn the key to on....wait about 10 to 20 seconds floor the pedal...crank it, release the pedal quickly and floor again it usually starts. It will eventually start without the trick if i just keep cranking on it.
Also related fuel problem ( i think ) when driving if i floor it to go faster, it spits and spudders along with some popping noise.
I have owned the truck for about 6 months and my list of tune-up parts include plugs, wires, cap and rotor k&n air filter and of course oil change along with lucas fuel injector cleaner. The check engine light does not come on ( only when truck is first started )therefore i am not able to have a code reader hooked up for a potential code.

#2 My truck vibrates ( bone shaking rattles ) when the torque converter is locking up ( i think that is the problem ) a mechanic from AAA told me that was the problem hesitantly. He said my fluid was very good and the transmission shifts very well. It seems to vibrate inbetween gears, in other words it doesn't matter what gear i am in if i keep a steady speed ( doesn't matter 20 to 80 mph ) when the truck goes to climb ( small hills included ) it vibrates, until i gas it... to get to a lower gear. My drive shaft is in ballance with good u-joints and my tranny mounts are also secure.

I hope someone has experienced similar problems and can point
me in the right direction with knowing i have a limited budget and willing to do get my own hands dirty by replacing parts

 

The only thing that comes to mind is the TPS may be bad.

 

im with subford but i would also check your timming it might be off a littel.

 

Thanxs guys! It may sound very stupid to a couple of Ford guys but this being my first ford i have no idea what TPS stands for in this situation. thanx for the response.

 

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor

 

Thank you! I would love to start small and would deffinately prefer not going to a dealership, i shall call for pricing.

 

Would you happen to know where this sensor is located exactly and if it is a pain to remove and replace.Thanx

 

try putting the sea foam in the gas tank too!



Jim

 

It is at the other end of the throttle shaft, the bottom end.
It is easier to take the throttle body off and then replace it.
The two screws on the TPS are vary hard to turn but they are button head so I use a small pair of vice grips on them to keep from rounding out the Phillips hole. I think they use loc-tite on them.

 

thank you! Just called oreilly's ( 41.99 ) and as soon as the ice storm relieves it's self i will begin and i will respond with good or bad news for fixing the problem

 

Throttle Body with TPS.

 

Awsome!. I deffinately appreciate the picture. I can only imagine what the world could be like if we all just helped one another with everyday ordinary problems.

 

Hey jim, i'm not sure i have ever heard of sea foam or what it does or if it would even fix my starting problem but i will check in to it. Thank you!

 

Seafoam is a solvent/cleaner, sold in most major parts chains. It's part petroleum, part alcohol, so does a wonderful job of 'drying' the fuel tank if you got bad fuel. Feeding it through the tank will clean the pump (some) and probably remove minor deposits from the injectors down-stream of the strainer screens in each injector. But, as with all in-tank treatments, buyer beware. You may get a little more cleaning than you bargained for. If it dislodges any varnish or buildup between the filter and the injectors, well, that's what the injector screens are for. Get enough, though, and you wind up with plugged up injectors.

Your shuddering when the TC locks sounds awfully familiar to light throttle lean miss. You have the 351W, so plug wire routing probably isn't the issue. My take on it is vacuum leaks somewhere. Check it over good for vacuum leaks before you start throwing parts at it. I learned this the hard way. But, all the same, do check the wires for any nicks or abrasions. Best way to check the wires is in a dark garage with the engine idling. You'll see it if there's a leaky or damaged wire problem, REAL QUICK.

 

Thank you! I never thought of plugs being a problem for a trans. issue but i will deffinately give it a look see. It's funny that you say... check other engine issues before replacing any tranny parts because that's what AAA told me. Sounds strange to me but what i do know about vehicles, if one thing is wrong there something causing it....just like the human body.