8 inch lift can i keep stock driveshaft?
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The vibe is the u-joint angle, not just the height. Have him put the suspension at full droop and see how much of the slip shaft is still in there. If it's close, get a spacer, it's cheap insurance.
If the u-joints are not running at the same, but opposing angles, you get driveline vibration.
Do you have the 2 piece rear d-shaft? If you do, you need to drop the carrier bearing.
If the u-joints are not running at the same, but opposing angles, you get driveline vibration.
Do you have the 2 piece rear d-shaft? If you do, you need to drop the carrier bearing.
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Originally Posted by 66 Ford
03 i was told by the guy who i was goin to let put it on "it will be fine we have done 3 or 4 03s with this lift and just a little vib when take off" so i am thinking it is going to be fine i am also going to be running 39.5 or 40s so does that make any difference?
rule of thumb: for every 1" suspension lift, 1/4" of carrier shim. IE.....8" lift=2" of carrier shim!
i kept my same drive shafts with my 6.5" lift. i didn't need to extend them. i still have about 2" worth of travel in them. i don't do any hard core off-roading so i don't need that much more travel in them.
try and find a good machine shop in your area, that can extend them. area's will very in price, but around $75 per shaft would be a pretty good price!
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Originally Posted by 66 Ford
03 i was told by the guy who i was goin to let put it on "it will be fine we have done 3 or 4 03s with this lift and just a little vib when take off" so i am thinking it is going to be fine i am also going to be running 39.5 or 40s so does that make any difference?
With a 03 you'll want to at least extend the stock driveshaft or you can go with an aftermarket long slip driveshaft.
In the rear, shimming the carrier bearing as was mentioned, should help to minimize or eliminate the vibrations.
You'll have the best chance of clearing 39.5s or 40s (it most likely would have to be a 13.5" wide tire) with the DR since it sits taller and will shift the center pins of the front springs forward to improve the tire to fender clearance.
We recommend sticking with a 38" tire under a 8" though.
Of course....you could always do some trimming if you want to go with the larger tires and they rub....
DC@TruckToyzPerformance.com
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Originally Posted by BFR250SD
These things are so easy to lift, it' not even funny.
If you have a few good bud's and a decent set of BASIC tools, you can do it at the house in a weekend. A day if you're decent with a wrench.
But price wise, it should not cost you more than $500 to get it installed.
If you have a few good bud's and a decent set of BASIC tools, you can do it at the house in a weekend. A day if you're decent with a wrench.
But price wise, it should not cost you more than $500 to get it installed.
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yea they said 500 but where what would u go with a danahoe 8 or 10 or a sky jacker 8.5? and what would they run becasue i got my prices just lookin to see what the normal price is and does any one run super swampers? good or bad i would rather spend 290 for 20,ooo miles then 700 for 40,ooo miles thanks and where can i get the drive shafts im from out side albany ny thanks
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go 10........if you go 8, some where down the line you're gonna want to go bigger!! i thought i'd be happy w/ 6.5........i am i love the look, but now i want to go 10, and run a 41 IROK!
i'm running IROK's right now, some people say they've gotten 40-50K out of them. keep them inflated, rotate, and don't do burn outs, hahah!! well i'll see what i end up with. i've got 2K on them now, and they still have the tire **** on them. i love the look of the IROK's and i purchased the radials for a better ride, and longer life!
i'm running IROK's right now, some people say they've gotten 40-50K out of them. keep them inflated, rotate, and don't do burn outs, hahah!! well i'll see what i end up with. i've got 2K on them now, and they still have the tire **** on them. i love the look of the IROK's and i purchased the radials for a better ride, and longer life!
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