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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:15 PM
  #1  
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Git 'er Done!

I was doing the driveline tonight and I found out too late that my press was 1" too short
So I had to cut the bottom out of it and lay it over just to get the job done.

Here's some pictures for your enjoyment at my expense.

Don't worry I welded the press back together when I was done.





 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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You had to cut the press to do the removal/install? That seems like a real PITA!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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good for you kwik! that i a true mechanic, not stoping until the job is done. i have to agree with redboat what a PIA!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Hey...at least you have a press to cut up and lay over That's good work.

I had to make a drift out of a big ole piece of lead pipe and use a BFH to drive that stinking carrier on. Not a particularly pleasant project, but definitely worth it once you're running down the freeway without the vibration.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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I was thinking about you today with your new transmission. Is that after you installed the transmission? How is that coming along? Tomorrow we are starting manual transmissions in school, today we finished up clutches.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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Tomorrow we are starting manual transmissions in school
That will be worth it's weight in gold....especially if you get your hands on a ZF. Take good notes
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Nice job!!! Glad to see people doing their own welding.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #8  
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It was a PITA. The only way that bearing was coming off was with the press. It was rusted on there. I put the press collar on and could only bite so much of the shoulder. It tore the rubber bushing off like butter. I was then able to get a direct bite on the steel shoulder of the bearing itself and when it let go it POPPED.
And the way that it had to be set up to press it back on again, I still did not have enough length on the press I had to use the BFH and pipe method to get the new carrier back on.
A gas and wire feed welder will make an expert welder out of an idiot. They are a dream to use.

I started out on this job chasing a definate driveline vibration. You could coast in neutral and the whole truck was shaking. Jack up the rear end onto jack stands, start the engine and put it into gear. Shim the throttle up the speed that it vibrates the worst and roll under the truck. I could see the middle of the driveline bouncing up and down about 1/4". "Ok, I found the vibration, I wonder what the cause is."
So I order a complete set up U-joints with zerk fittings and a new carrier bearing from NAPA and proceed to redo my driveline.
The tool to use for U-joints is a one of those big C-clamp ball joint replacement tools. It makes the job so easy I had all three done in an hour.
If the bearing cap is a little stuck, it's not a problem. The C-clamp acts like a little portable press and it just pops right out.

I could not find any visible damage to any of the U-joints and the carrier bearing was completely tight and silent. I pulled every cap off of all the U-joints. All the grease was like new, they all had zerks and I was diligent about making sure they always were greased.
The spline shaft joining the two halves together was so tight that I had to shove it back together and I indexed it before I took it apart to get it back on the same spline. New grease applied. I didn't have the blue Ford stuff so I used a tube of CV joint grease. It's EXTREMELY high pressure grease loaded with molydisulfide. It should do the trick.
But after I finish the job the truck is nice and smooth, so I really don't know where the problem was.
But I don't care now, the problem is fixed and that's good enough for me.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:42 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I started out on this job chasing a definate driveline vibration.
I could see the middle of the driveline bouncing up and down about 1/4".
I could not find any visible damage to any of the U-joints and the carrier bearing was completely tight and silent. I pulled every cap off of all the U-joints. All the grease was like new, they all had zerks and I was diligent about making sure they always were greased.

But after I finish the job the truck is nice and smooth, so I really don't know where the problem was.
But I don't care now, the problem is fixed and that's good enough for me.
Glad it's fixed Dan. Wonder what it was? I know you are probably like me and like the big AHA when I set out to fix something.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:01 AM
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nice work...when you put the press back together did you make it taller for the next time???? i did my shaft the easy way...i took it out and sent it to napa..had them doo the joints and bearin..he said it was the hardest one he as done in a long time..cost me 40 bucks..well worth it for me...
 
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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the torch is very good at removing midship bearings!!!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tjbeggs
the torch is very good at removing midship bearings!!!
I thought about that, but decided to do the press method because I didn't want to go through heating that thing with all the smoke and coughing only to have it be REALLY jammed on there.
The press was the only sure thing so down it went.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 05:02 AM
  #13  
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Kwik at what speeds did you have the vibration? And what milage was on the bearing and ujoints? Just curious...by the way great job getting that sucker off...adapt and over come i always say....
Mike
 
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fordmdb
Kwik at what speeds did you have the vibration? And what milage was on the bearing and ujoints? Just curious...by the way great job getting that sucker off...adapt and over come i always say....
Mike
More like at what speed it DIDN'T shake.
Pretty much from 35 on up with 45-55 being the worst. 65+ and then everything is spinning too fast and it smoothed out somewhat.
Now that I have everything replaced it's as smooth as silk.
Truck only has 75,000 miles on it, but it has to haul a lot of weight at times.
 
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