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I recently repaired a rusty fender by cutting out the rusted area and welding a sheet metal patch. I'm a lousy welder so I welded it from the back side.
then used bondo on the front seam. It turned out alright but, took to long thanks to my welding leaving so much of a mess. I have 3 more fenders to repair and my welding prob. will not improve. I have been considering using panel adhesive instead of welding but i don't know what brand or if adhesives work well.
I'll appreciate any advice. by the I'm way working on a 1948 f1
Any brand would probably work equally as well. Some common brands are 3m, lord fusor, usc. When patching metal to metal, you normally grind where old piece and the new patch will overlap. Put enough on so it will cover the entire seam and even squeeze out some when clamped, and the adhesive, many being epoxy based, will provide good corrosion protection. I believe you could also epoxy primer the pieces also if you felt the need, and it should stick. While the adhesive is curing, you should clamp the patch in place, or else screw it in several spot if you aren't able to clamp it. You can skim over the screw holes with bodyfiller, since the adhesive itself should prevent any water from reaching that seam and the holes will be small. There are different adhesives meant for specialty purposes, but metal to metal would be a general widely used one, and the difference between them would be the set up time on the epoxy, or in other words, how long you have to work. They normally say in the description of that particular adhesives numbers what they are meant for. Patching a fender is fine, but as far as I know they are still not recommended for use on structural panels, although they are being used in more and more applications from various car manufacturers. If replaceing a large complete panel, like say a bedside, I believe they recommend putting a few spotwelds in certain places due to it having good strength if you were trying to pull it off straight, but not as good if say it were yanked if you pulled in the lengthwise direction. So box sides we use to place a few spotwelds up in the front of the box behind the cab and a few back by the tailights. If only doing this one time, the application gun may be a little pricey unless you can find a loaner gun. I think most run from $50 to $100 something range, and the pnematic ones being even more.
Try this link for a look at adhesives and instructions for use. http://www.lord.com/tabid/3400/Default.aspx
I had asked my buddy who is a body man about adhesives and he told me that can be the way to go with patch panels. Don't have to worry about the warpage that can happen with welding and if done correctly, adhesives are just as good as welding. I don't know much about it, but I was skeptical with adhesives before he told me that.
Yeah, one downfall of tha adhesives for an occasional or one time user. I believe if you buy enough tubes of adhesive, some will give the gun free. If the place loaned out some guns, bet they would sell more adhesive. I modified a caulk gun and made my own, but then you have to hope that it is mixing the two parts at the right ratio. Figured for what I was using it for it didn't matter all that much. We got a few guns where I work now, and boy the pneumatic ones are nice, but wasn't working there at the time I needed one and was shopping. They also soak ya about a dollar or more per mixing tip if you have to buy extra, and the store I went to only sold em in packs so that was $20 there.
Panel adhesives are definitely gaining acceptance in shops and by hobbyists. The fact that the repair is sealed and that the welding warpage factor is removed, plus the speed and ease of application make panel adhesives a good alternative to welding (although as was mentioned, using a panel adhesive and welding is still recommended for some repairs). We offer Norton SpeedGrip panel adhesives.
I am assuming that when you use adhesive to glue on a body panel that you flange one of the mating edges? With this double layer of metal and then being glued together, what is the longer term affects due to temperature extremes? I live in iowa and sometimes it gets damn cold or hot? What will a repair of this kind look like in 10 years or longer? any affects to the paint?
Thanks,
Fuzor is one of the best panel repair adhesives, but not so much for the home hobbyist unless you want to spend the money for the lamp too, but 3m makes a great one and it's not ridiculously expensive. It won't affect the paint quality, just treat it like any other body filler, it takes primer well and paints just fine and the temp issue really shouldn't matter. Most of your heavy truck shops use Fuzor like it's going out of style and Semi's see the worst of everything.
Yeah, I work on semis and practically all exterior panels are held together by glue or rivets.
Johaner, I don't think the heat or cold will really be a problem. To replace panels, the glue is heated with a heat gun to soften it, but you have to really get it pretty hot, hotter then I think you'll be experiencing outside in the sun. Flanging the joint isn't a bad idea, since the two panels will fit then be flush, which should mean very little filler needed at the seam. I think besides heat, a hard enough impact will seperate the joint at that area also, so I imagine you have to be carefull welding real close to where adhesive or beating on it with a sledge hammer, lol. The only issue I've seen mentioned is when not replacing an entire panel, a ghost line eventually showing in the paint at the seam. This may be due to different expansion rates of the adhesive and metal? not sure what the cause would be. Here is a discussion on adhesives. I guess there will always be some people opposed to them, but they have many benefits, such as sealing and protecting the seam and no distortion like welding can create, and they have been used on doorskins for many years by many manufacturers. They are not junk and if used correctly I believe the repair should last a long time.
Here is one discussion on using adhesives on a restoration, and opinions for and against. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...5&Main=1754387
I'm all for bonding personally, for several reasons, all of which were addressed in that link you put up,,, but I tell you what,, the reason people hate it is because you listed a Mopar chat room, they hate everything ( just kidding )
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