EGT Probe?
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Postmaster
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EGT Probe?
As you all know, i have the EGT probe in the downpipe. Since i am taking the up pipes im going to drill and tap the up pipe while they are out. My question isnt there 2 diffrent types on thermocouples? Isnt one like a o2 sensor which threads into the pipe and the other a band style that holds it in? I have the one that has a band and i dont think it will work in the up pipe, maybe im wrong. I am just trying to knock out a few birds with one stone.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
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The clamp-on style just has the smooth thermocouple, a little collar that you slide up or down to get the thermocouple in the center of the pipe, then tighten to lock in place, and a little crushable washer and the clamp (hose clamp with a hole drilled in it). You only need to drill a hole in the uppipe for this type... no tapping required.
Here are a couple more pics that might help:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2756...86590301xYXjhP
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2108...86590301BrUJZD
Here are a couple more pics that might help:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2756...86590301xYXjhP
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2108...86590301BrUJZD
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Postmaster
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Is there an advantage to running the other style? Also, my pyrometer sits are 300 degrees when i go to shut the truck off. With the truck off and power off, the gauge sits at 300 degrees. When i first start it it goes up to 200 degree immediatly. Does this sound right because i usally seen on my friends truck the pyro zero out with the power off.
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Postmaster
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Maryland, WVU
if you got the bung to weld in the pipe an then screw the prob into that would be best, will handle the pressures better an not leak. an if you neet to take it out, u can just put a plug in an not have a hole. i wouldnt try to drill an tap the up pipes since they hare thin an wont give you many threads. I was gona weld the bung into my up pipe, but I ended up shearing both the bolts off in the Y section an spent a while day tearing the up pipes an stuff out to fix that. I ended up just drilling a tappen the drivers side manifold...took me 10 min to do....shoulda done it in the first place 
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From: Kodiak AK
I laid under my truck three times now with a drill motor all set to drill. Stayed there for about 20 minutes each time and still have not drilled the hole. Maybe this weekend my ***** will drop and I will drill and tap my manifold.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by hosemandc
I laid under my truck three times now with a drill motor all set to drill. Stayed there for about 20 minutes each time and still have not drilled the hole. Maybe this weekend my ***** will drop and I will drill and tap my manifold.
The easiest way to drill a hole for the probe is to start with a very small drill and make a pilot hole. Then drill the bigger one to cut the threads from. Having a pilot hole drilled for the final stage makes it much easier to get the job done right. Don't be stingy on the cutting lube. Drill a little, and pull back out as the drill is still spinning and add some more cutting oil. It won't take much, there is less than 1/4" before you break through.
Buy new, sharp drills for the job. It will make life a LOT easier. I spent the extra cash on the cobalt drills and they worked like a dream. The manifolds were like butter to those drills.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
If you want some practice beforehand, go get a piece of water pipe and clamp it into the vice and have at it. That way if something goes wrong, nothing is lost but a drill bit and you have gained experience for the real thing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Columbia, MO
I used a small step bit to start drilling mine, before I switched to the R bit. It made it much easier, and the shavings were pretty small - just in case one happens to go through the turbo. Smaller shavings will more easily pass through.
Senior User
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From: Kodiak AK
You know the funny thing is I am a welder/tool and die maker. I can drill things no problem. I custom ordered the truck in 2002 new for $37000. The most expensive thing besides my house I ever bought. So yes I am afraid to drill into it. I am going to do it tomorrow evening after work no excuses.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Elkhorn, WI
like others have said start with a small drill and work your way up to the "R" (.339) drill. being cast iron it will leave small shavings anyway. it never hurts to use a center punch before you start drilling. if you do tap the manifold make sure you get the tap started straight because the last thing you want is to have the threads wrong because it wont be easy to fix. just take your time and you will be fine