When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i quess i need to no everything about it? it came out of a e-350 not sure what year? think late 70 or early 80? really what i want to know is what it will take toget 600 hp and comparable torq out of this it's my first B.B. ? and what parts are a waist and what is a must have? not sure whether to put it in my bronco or mustang? i think bronco it also came with a 2 wheel c-6 ? tell me everything and give me options all the local shops talk so much crap i dont no who to listen to?
Well im building mine up for my custom 460 stroker 70 nova. The cast date is easy to find if its 70s its have a D as first digit, 80's E for first digit. Mines a D9TE block with the usual D3 heads. The horsepower you want depends on what amount of money you have in the pocket so. But im goin with a Voodoo cam n Weiand stealth intake recommended by a guy in FTE and a 850 CFM Holley double pumper, a crank to put it at 513 plus 30 over bore etc etc etc.
What I would do is find a business or a person who builds mostly or just Ford engines.
i quess i need to no everything about it? it came out of a e-350 not sure what year? think late 70 or early 80? really what i want to know is what it will take toget 600 hp and comparable torq out of this it's my first B.B.
Simple answer=money!!!!
As to what year, look right above were the starter bolts to the block you should see a casting number, most likely it's D9TE-AB. That block was used from 1979 until the end of production, if it's carbed it most likely has D3VE or equivelant heads on it.
Truthfully first thing you want to do if your even remotely serious about getting 600hp is build a stout bottom end, and the easiest way to get even close is stroke that sucker. But before I go any further you need to decide what you really want it to do and what you really want to drive it like. Be realistic here, if it's street driven etc even shoooting for 450 hp is double the stock for that motor and is a lot more than most people realize plus it's real easy to obtain, start getting up in the 600hp range they start getting a little radical and don't make good low end torque motors as well, but man do they scream.
There is 1 effective way to do this and still keep it streetable, Supercharge It!!! Of course you will need to start with a 4 bolt Main block, the 68-70 blocks are 2 bolt main blocks but have a starting HP of about 365, but most blocks can be machined to accept 4 bolts.
Next, make sure you balance and blueprint your engine because you want the engine to be dependable and indestructable! (unless you run it out of oil!) With a Intercooled Procharger Supercharger and the engine set up right you can double your horsepower and torque without the cost of a racing engine and it will run on pump gas!!
Last edited by catmandu79; Jan 10, 2007 at 06:33 AM.
ill second the stroker more displacement is good for everything but mileage supercharging it would cost more than stroking it, and would make it shorter lived than leaving it naturally aspirated. if you have a fox-body mustang then you could put it in there. check out http://fordifiedracing.homestead.com/bigblockfox.html if you want to see some in mustangs. if you want to put it in the bronco- what year is it? if its from the late 70s then its pretty simple, if its newer than that then you may run into issues
Last edited by darrin1999; Jan 10, 2007 at 10:33 AM.
I have always wandered if a supercharger would do any good on a low RPM rock climber? Or is it just for the lead foot?
that would really depend on the supercharger of choice, turbo's no they aren't doing much at low rpms, belt driven blowers yes there will be some benifit but not a lot the superchargers are more for upper end, and some mid range power.
Thanks Monster that is what I was looking for. My FJ40 has enough to crawl threw 2 feet of snow in 2nd and low, three on tree. But Rusty with the 4cyl 2.? I believe just need a little more to idle through 18 inches. Got my eye on one about the same year. 2X4 with a v6 (what would that be) with a lot better body at the impound yard. I know the rig, It runs well and is pretty clean. Need to check on it as it was drove in so no tow charge. And as the scrap barge only comes around every third year I may get it for just removing it.
so what should i be paying for all the machine work for a stroker 514 making it 4-bolt and everything how hi of a rpm can u blueprint it to . i quess what i want to know is would i be better buying a crate motor jegs has it for 7800 bucks so can i have it done and do better?
7800 dollars? you could have more for less, you could go 521 or 545 ci, but ive seen kits for as high as an 806 ci for the ford motorsports siamese bore aftermarket block. the 4 bolt main really isnt necessary, the 2 bolt main is fine for up to around 800 horse, as for rpm- you can build it for however high you want to turn it, but much over 8000 rpm and youll want a forged crank, casts are fine for 7000- or as monsterbaby can attest- short bursts at 8000, but for anything over about 6000 youll need good forged rods and pistons. keep away from the giggle gas and your engine should be good to go for a long time, start trying to use that stuff- and say hello to an early grave for your motor
Last edited by darrin1999; Jan 10, 2007 at 06:27 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.