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Well. I can use the same calipers then for front wheel, but it this case I need EBS (ABS+ABD) to distribute brake forces electronically. And I can easily add EPS function. But this way is the perfect but expencive. If I want to add 4-chanel abs i need to add 2 hydravlic lines, 4 wheel speed sensors, modulator and controller, but EBS requires other controller, more expencive modulator, axe load sensors, FDR (accelerometer) and steering wheel angle sensor. This is realli expencive way, about $1200-2000. I belive ABS + brake force distributor and rear disk brakes is enought.
Last edited by Pablo-UA; Jan 12, 2007 at 04:23 AM.
Small steps in the right direction are a good way to go. I, personally, would forego the magic alphabet soup and go with better brake pads for the front and a manual adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake system if there are problems with rear lock up.
The car with the absolute best brakes I have ever driven had front discs, rear drums and no electronics at all. '90 honda Accord.
save your kopiykas, best to keep brakes simple....the complex electronics versions are always in the shop....
and never work in real emergency situations....too much to fail in all the road debris, rocks, spray and salt
get a top brand name brake manuf. shoe and pad, such as Bosch avail in Ukraine....use only semi-metallic in a high brake cooeficient material....supply the best braking and cooling from multiple high speed stops
We have many trucks.... Half of them Volvo with simple ABS/EBS by Knorr/Bendix and the half - Mercedes Actros (donor for modern Freightliners) with Full WABCO EBS with stablility controll and anty roll systems.
Yes, they are always in workshop, but we have less heavy crashes and roll-over crashes. But, I'll be correct, 70% of crashes are with young drivers, so the most effective active anty crash system is integrated to driver's head.
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