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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

engine swap

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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 01:00 PM
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strk1960
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engine swap

im looking into swaping out my 223(which is a great motor)on my 1960 f-100 for something more modern 300 302...
i was wondering if i could keep the stock 3 on the tree tranny, i have my doubts that ford would have changed this tranny from 1950-72 im wondering if i found the right bellhousing would i be able to keep it.
or am i just best off to find a 300/c6 or 5.0 aod
any tips on the simplest motor swap would be greatly apriciated.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 05:10 PM
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engine swap

The 302 swap is a really good one. There are several threads in this forum and in the 61-72 forum about it doing the work and what to look for concerning problems. I would definately go with a new transmission for many reasons, the least of which is that your old one would probably shell the first time you put modern horse pressure on it. I think you could probably use your 3 on the tree if you can find a modern full syncro 3-speed transmission. The only drawback would be having to fabricate (lengthen or shorten the shift rods and maybe adjust the transmission levers to the up or down position to accomidate the original shift pattern. Use a bolt in motor and transmission mount from someone like Dennis Carpenter Reproductions. Easy job compared to some others I can think of.
Hope this helps.
Skip4274
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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 10:00 PM
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engine swap

Hi,
Skip4274 is right. You can keep the original 3 on the tree. I did such a swap on the first '59 F-100 I owned about 20 years ago. Being young (15) and having limited funds, I swapped the old 292 (spun bearing) for a '73 302 from a Gran Torino wagon (it was free). I made my own motor mount brackets, and just bought the new rubber parts. I bolted on a '77 3 speed and I was able to keep the 3 on the tree. I can't remember which, but I just used the linkages from either the '59 or the '77, and they worked fine for me with the original column shift setup. (Maybe I just got lucky when I positioned the engine.) I had to make a bracket for the clutch slave cylinder to bolt to the '77 bell housing, I used the radiator from the '73 wagon (also required homemade brackets to install), but I got lost on the wiring from gen. to alt. I had to get outside help on that one.
Kenny
 
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Old Sep 7, 2000 | 10:37 PM
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engine swap

you guys think id be best off with a 302, over a 300, ive had good experiances with a 300 they got low tourqe out the wazoo, im also worried about gas cause i just finished a 75 f250 4x4... mustang 429 and its killing me as a daily driver got ***** though.
ive never done any swap that required real serious fabrications so im a little shy of real complex home made stuff, but i cant afford to buy these $500 kits,
I also wanted to say how great this site is lots of neat stuff here, and great info, thanks guys.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2000 | 07:03 AM
  #5  
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engine swap

strk1960, I forgot to mention that my Dad was there with me every step of the way. I might have had cold feet about the swap too if it weren't for him. Upon further thinking since my last post, it is entirely possible that I might have had to modify the linkages a bit. (it was 20 years ago). I also forgot to mention you will need to have a custom driveshaft made up, and custom exhaust. I used my '59 speedometer cable, but I had to change the plastic gear. The local ford dealer mechanic told me the formula (wish I could remember it). I think each tooth represents an amount of mph. Once you know how far off you are, you add or subtract number of teeth. Anyway, I'm not trying to scare you off. I have nothing against the six but myself, If I had to do all over again, I would go with a 292.
Kenny
 
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Old Sep 13, 2000 | 09:19 PM
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engine swap

 
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Old Sep 15, 2000 | 06:24 PM
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engine swap

strk1906
The motor mounts I'm talking about are about $125 and the transmission crossmember is about $75 from Dennis Carpenter. It costs more than that the first time you have to weld in and cut out one of your mistakes. The advantage to these units is that you can drop in the motor/transmission and move it around to check clearances before you bolt it up. The mounts lay inside the frame rails. I suggest bolting because you could drop the pan by unbolting the mounts from the frame. If you weld them in, I've done both, you are pretty much stuck with what you have.
As for the 300-6, it is a great motor, but I would go V-8 every time because they are lighter and cheaper to build.
Best of luck on your project.
Skip4274
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