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I just took my truck in for an exhaust estimate. The guys at the shop voiced their concerns about snapping off the bolts removing the old headers, thus causing the need for a machine shop. Should this be a concern?
Well, I can tell you about my truck...the last guy that had it (or the guy before, who knows...) apparently stripped the bolts or did something wrong, becasue on the driver's side of the engine, the top bolts have had the threads drilled out on the engind and a bolt and nut combo was used instead....I've had the truck in daily use for 3 years now with no issues there.....so, even if they do snap off, all they have to do is punch/drill the old hole out and use the nut and bolt combo. Of course, if you want it kept all stock and perfect-like...that's another story.
They said if the bolt snaps, I would need to replace the heads????? This was a "national chain", so I'm not so sure that they weren't just "trolling" for extra dollars. I'm going to take it to the "small" local owned shop next week, but would like to be more educated before doing so.
Yeah...I find that "chains" (with a few exceptions) generally do not have the best staff. My current muffler shop is staffed entirely by mexicans that all work in spanish...I have no idea what they say, but they were recopmmended and their prices are great! lol
I just took my truck in for an exhaust estimate. The guys at the shop voiced their concerns about snapping off the bolts removing the old headers, thus causing the need for a machine shop. Should this be a concern?
Yes, It is a concern. It is highly likely that bolts will be broken trying to remove them. It is not impossiable to not break at least one, but I wouldn't count on it.
You would not have to have new heads but the broken bolts would have to be drilled and replaced.
just start pb blasting them, or some other penetrant until your taking your headers off and that should keep your chances of not breaking them better.
Excellent suggestion!!!! Spray them bolts, and most any bolts you are going to have to take off for the first time in umpteen years with PB Blaster (or something equally good) a couple times a day for a couple days before you ever take a wrench to them.... When you get them out, measure them for size and length, and THROW THEM AWAY and get all new hardware to put it back together. A bit of anti-seize on the threads and a torque wrench in the hands when putting things back together will stop any future problems. Every bolt on the truck and any other vehicle for that matter does have a torque value. Charts are available that give application specific torque ratings as well as generalized torque ratings for hardware based on it's application....
I just finished drilling and tapping the one I broke puting my headers on. I did the headers myself because the muffler shop did not want to take the risk of broken bolts. The headers took about 2hrs. That was having to take out the starter un-bolt motor mounts and jack up motor before being able to get thge headers in. The broken bolt took about 4hrs and that was spent over a couple days of going to buy new tools (angle drill, bits, easyout, tap). I tried to drill it and then use an easyout first, but ended up drilling it larger and cleaning the threads with a tap. Hey I like new tols anyway.
I just finished drilling and tapping the one I broke puting my headers on. I did the headers myself because the muffler shop did not want to take the risk of broken bolts. The headers took about 2hrs. That was having to take out the starter un-bolt motor mounts and jack up motor before being able to get thge headers in. The broken bolt took about 4hrs and that was spent over a couple days of going to buy new tools (angle drill, bits, easyout, tap). I tried to drill it and then use an easyout first, but ended up drilling it larger and cleaning the threads with a tap. Hey I like new tols anyway.
Yup, having too many new tools is liking having too much horsepower!!!! Can't imagine it ever happening to me!!!! But then I've come to the conclusion long ago that I am an incurable tool truck junkie!!!! Just ask my Snap-on or Matco tool guys!!!!!!
When I re-worked my exhaust in my '67, the bottom bolts were no problem. But those top bolts, almost all of them, broke. I removed the heads and drilled them out, threads and all. I put in longer bolts with nuts on the backside. Works fine.
Thanks for all of the replies. Based on the feedback, I think I will go with manifolds instead of headers. Now, paying someone else to remove the headers and put on the manifolds seems like it will be expensive. I am very handy but have no experience with cars. If i take my time removing the headers, should be fairly easy replacing the manifolds, right? If I get in over my head (i.e., breaking bolts), can I still drive the truck to a shop without headers/exhaust? Any advice would be welcomed.
Thanks.
Last edited by sulldog66; Jan 8, 2007 at 01:45 PM.
Its not a big deal to drill and tap out the bolts..i have broken many off over the years..If you try heating up the flange with a torch it will probly come out..I used to have header leaks from time to time but when i put them in now. I put a little red silicone on the gasket..no leaks in the last 3yrs.also be real liberal with the never seize compound.Drilling it out and putting a nut on the backside works just fine..
not sure what your budget is or what you'd consider "expensive." But, the muffler shop I found said they will do everything to the back bumper for $350. All I provide is the new headers and mufflers. Hopefully that will help for comparison.
If you dont plan to race the truck or pull large loads. Hedders can be more trouble than they are worth..anyway you have to keep enough exaust on the truck so cold air cant get back to warp your valves..dont run it long with out headers or manfolds on it..good luck