After several weeks of happily driving my "new" 1965, today I had a minor mechanical problem that I can't seem to resolve. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't owned a carbuerated vehicle in 20 years so feel free to laugh at what may be an obvious newbie mistake.

Basically the engine cranks, but I can't get it to fire. I flooded it today about noon and tried it again (2nd try) after letting it sit for 5 minutes, then four hours later (third try). On the third try, I put the pedal to the floor once and cranked it 6 or 7 times for about five seconds each time. Now it sits on the side of the road.

Here is all of the pertinent detail:

After 14 days of not driving, I started the truck on the second crank using the choke. Drove it for 30 minutes, then shut it off for 45 minutes. Started it again and drove 1 mile, then let it sit for 30 minutes. When I came out, I started it, drove it for about 200 yards before it stalled and wouldn't start. It hit 75 degrees here today and rained all day yesterday, so I am not ruling out some condensatioon or vapor lock issue.

Setup is a Ford 390 with a Holley (not sure of size) sitting on an Edlebrock intake. Truck has been starting, running and idling well until now. Engine compartment is very clean and everything seems to work fine. Previous owner lived at about 3000 feet above sea level and I am at about 400 feet above sea level so there could also be some adjustments needed.

I am not familiar with the Holley and am not sure the choke cable even works. Any detailed pointers, links to articles or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

John:
Does it just die?
Or does it sputter and buck kick and spit while dying?
If it just shuts off, (or on and off) then it is electrical. Most likely, a bad condensor or coil, possibly points, rotor cap and/or wires.
You symptoms seem to indicate to me a bad condensor, if it just shuts off.

If it sputters and kicks while dying, then it is fuel related.

Post back!

 

Banjopicker,

It initially sputtered a bit right when cranking after the initial stall, but hasn't fired in several hours. I have removed the rotor several times recently while parked in malls etc. to prevent an unauthorized joy ride and may have not properly reinstalled it this last time.

It smelled like the engine was getting plenty of fuel so perhaps flooding was simply coincidental to an electrical problem. Wires are all properly installed and tightly connected. Inside of rotor cap shows some minor carbon buildup but nothing too heavy. Perhaps it is the condenser. I am not a purist and would certainly be willing to try an electronic ingition.

I'll go through some more diagnosis and post something next week. Thanks for the quick response, I am very excited about joining this group and appreciate your support.

 

The only two times I have been left at the side of the road by my 66 it was the condensor, with prety much the same symptoms. I did have a friend who had a bunch of junk in the gas tank and after driving it he would occasionally have it "just die". He took the easy way out and just changed out the tank. I would agree with Banjo though about the condensor. Easy and cheap to fix. Good luck.

 

Could also be the coil. Been there and done that with my Mustang when it would start and not start in no set pattern. Never had a coil go bad so it wasn't at the top of my list but when changed out the car was as good as new.

 

There's another possible cause too...a potato!

If someone stuffs a potato in an exhaust pipe, the truck will start initially...run for 30 seconds....stop, and refuse to fire again. This was an old high school prank, from days gone by.

Sometimes, the muffler would blow out if it was old and rusty.

Regardless...if the exhaust system gets plugged for whatever reasons, the result is the same.
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Another prank was dropping a ping-pong ball in the gas tank. When the fuel was low, the ball would be sucked into the gas pickup tube. The vehicle would stop running. And as soon as it stopped running, the suction would release the ball. The vehicle would start...and the whole process would then repeat itself. This was in the days before unleaded gas and the smaller in diameter gas tank neck.
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This is where I would start looking for the problem, if you did not get it on good you may have broke the alinement tab inside the rotor and it is moving. I would look into a differant way of disabling the truck for parking, maybe put a switch under the dash to cut power to the igition.

 

Following a careful removal of the distributor cap, a light cleaning and a careful reassembly of the rotor, the truck starts fine now. Bertha66 is right that pulling the rotor is not an effective security measure and I don't plan to do it again. One kill switch coming up.

Thanks to everyone on here for the many quality responses. There are two things I need to learn about these great old trucks. First is the particulars of the points and condesner ignition system and the merits of going to an electronic ignition. The second is the "art" of starting an old truck under different environmental conditions. On the second and third attempts. I should have been able to diagnose that it was not simply flooded, but not firing. Live and learn. I'll make a subsequent post on electronic ignition.