Air Conditioning
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 148
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From: Angier, NC
Air Conditioning
I have a 71 F-250 390 with what seems to be a Ford under dash A/C unit. The blower motor for the A/C, Heat and Def. quit working. The A/C never worked I always figured it was the pump or just needed charging (I still do) but have never gotten around to fixing it. But the fresh air vent never seemed to work correctly. When I took the A/C unit out and apart to replace the fan motor I realized that one of the inner vent doors has been hitting the heater core and not opening properly. And all the vent and door seals (foam) are deteriorated. I can move the heater core and make every thing open and close correctly, repplace the fan motor and try to find some way to repair all the foam seals. I guess my long winded question is, is it worth all the work or is there a better aftermarket A/C and Heater unit out there?
Thanks
Chad
Thanks
Chad
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
The original Deluxe Ford Factory A/C unit fits snug underneath the dash from below the drivers side to the passenger side. The outer bezel was originally wood grained plastic. It has the heater built into the unit.
The Ford Hang On A/C fits only on the right side of the dash. To the left are two *****...followed by 4 registers. The heater is a separate unit, not connected to the A/C.
Sounds like you have the DLX version. Please be aware these are extremely hard to find, and desirable. Don't toss it away.
The Ford Hang On A/C fits only on the right side of the dash. To the left are two *****...followed by 4 registers. The heater is a separate unit, not connected to the A/C.
Sounds like you have the DLX version. Please be aware these are extremely hard to find, and desirable. Don't toss it away.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 7, 2007 at 09:20 AM.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Angier, NC
Thanks for the info. Judging by your description I do indeed have the “Deluxe Ford Factory A/C Unit” (well now I have several small piece of one on my work bench). I am cleaning it all up and have found some foam to glue on all the doors for seals. Then hopefully I can remember how to put it back together.
By the way I haven’t looked for the replacement Blower Motor yet. Will that be available through local auto parts stores or will I have to find a used one somewhere? And when converting to 134a are there changes that have to be done to the unit under the dash or do all the changes take place at the pump? I will have it out for some time while prepping the interior (and exterior) for paint and would like not to have to ever remove it again.
Thanks
Chad
By the way I haven’t looked for the replacement Blower Motor yet. Will that be available through local auto parts stores or will I have to find a used one somewhere? And when converting to 134a are there changes that have to be done to the unit under the dash or do all the changes take place at the pump? I will have it out for some time while prepping the interior (and exterior) for paint and would like not to have to ever remove it again.
Thanks
Chad
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 432
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From: YORK S.C.
to convert it to 134a,check your local parts houses really all you have in the kit is some compressor seals,oil,refrigerant,you will have to change the drier/accumulator. other than that,pull a good vaccuum,charge it up. i have done several conversion and all have worked good. as for the blower motor,check some of the sponsors on this site,and local j'yards
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,302
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From: Madison, SD
I redid one of the Deluxe units on a customers truck, I found the blower motor at NAPA. I did have to redrill a couple holes to make it mount up correctly, but other then that it worked fine. I did switch to a Sander compresser and fabbed up the mounts to mount it low on the right side of the engine... Puts on some very cold air and is still functioning flawlessly after 4 years!!! IMO they are well worth the effort to make them functional!!!!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
You should flush you whole system to get all the mineral oil out! 134a systems have a lot higher running pressure this is why there o-ringed green not black like R-12 system
had, Try to have your condensor with in 1/2"to 3/8" inch so it will ge a good air pull from the fan when your in stop & go driving. This will help from getting warm air blowing a stopped at a light. Great idea to switch over to the 5-cylinder Sanden 508
compressor. A co. in Tex. make the monting plate that bolts to the OEM bracket for 50 bucks. Add an inline Low & High safty shut off switch, this cuts the compressor off when System PSI is to low or to High not to damage something. Theres some good info on the net on how to do this. For the do it yourselfers.. my 2cents
Been there done it..
orich
had, Try to have your condensor with in 1/2"to 3/8" inch so it will ge a good air pull from the fan when your in stop & go driving. This will help from getting warm air blowing a stopped at a light. Great idea to switch over to the 5-cylinder Sanden 508
compressor. A co. in Tex. make the monting plate that bolts to the OEM bracket for 50 bucks. Add an inline Low & High safty shut off switch, this cuts the compressor off when System PSI is to low or to High not to damage something. Theres some good info on the net on how to do this. For the do it yourselfers.. my 2cents
Been there done it..
orich
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Madison, SD
Originally Posted by orich
You should flush you whole system to get all the mineral oil out! 134a systems have a lot higher running pressure this is why there o-ringed green not black like R-12 system
had, Try to have your condensor with in 1/2"to 3/8" inch so it will ge a good air pull from the fan when your in stop & go driving. This will help from getting warm air blowing a stopped at a light. Great idea to switch over to the 5-cylinder Sanden 508
compressor. A co. in Tex. make the monting plate that bolts to the OEM bracket for 50 bucks. Add an inline Low & High safty shut off switch, this cuts the compressor off when System PSI is to low or to High not to damage something. Theres some good info on the net on how to do this. For the do it yourselfers.. my 2cents
Been there done it..
orich
had, Try to have your condensor with in 1/2"to 3/8" inch so it will ge a good air pull from the fan when your in stop & go driving. This will help from getting warm air blowing a stopped at a light. Great idea to switch over to the 5-cylinder Sanden 508
compressor. A co. in Tex. make the monting plate that bolts to the OEM bracket for 50 bucks. Add an inline Low & High safty shut off switch, this cuts the compressor off when System PSI is to low or to High not to damage something. Theres some good info on the net on how to do this. For the do it yourselfers.. my 2cents
Been there done it..
orich
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Newport PA
Is the deluxe the model that has the 2IN. deep glove box. I have one,I used foam a/c filter material and 3M spray glue along with the foam strips to seal doors and windows. I got the exact motor from advanced auto. I need pulleys and brackets for my 390 for the a/c though.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by charter
Is the deluxe the model that has the 2IN. deep glove box.
Also as numberdummy mentioned the heater is part of the a/c unit. The Heater controls on the truck controls the a/c too.