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the flexplate is relative to the motor, and i don't think the type of autotranny matters. they are not interchangable between motors for balancing reasons.
i knew u couldnt swap plates between 5.0's and 5.8s but i was thinkin that there might be a difference between how far it sticks out away from the motor. ie letting the conveter engauge proplerly.
i don't think so, if it was you'd have a different starter for every transmission, instead of one for manual and one for automatic. found that out when i changed my 5sp to automatic and the manual starter gear doesn't throw out far enough to engage the flexplate.
my bad, i went from an e4od to aod. i got everthing to work already, the shifter and neutral/park switch. runs etc.. it was a 2wd to 4wd swap everything was bolt on with minimal fab. now my perfectly working tranny has stick gears(aod) the reason i swaped is because the nearly 2200$ rebuild of the e40d and the fact that i want 4wd. also it only costs about 1500 for an aod rebuild from the shop.
did you get the tv cable hooked up and adjusted properly to the trottle?? it won't shift through the gears if the tension on the cable is not right. you can do it yourself with a hydraulic pressure gauge and hose screwed into the side of the tranny, but i took mine to a shop last time and had them get it right, didn't even charge me. (but they have rebuilt tranny's for me in the past)
there was a post on here as to how to do it properly. but ive since lost it. but it should still down shift at some point. my tranny tear down manuel doenst heven tell me to to ajust this type of tv, it tells how to adjust a screw type. how much did they charge to do it?
they did mine for free cause i've had them build trannies for me in the past, on the cable where it locks into the bracket on the motor, that part has a slide adjustment where you can move it left or right to increase/decrease the tension on the cable. on the side of the tranny, just above where the linkage hooks, there is a small plug in the side with a square or hex head. pull that plug and screw in a hose with pressure gauge on the other end, make sure it is long enough for you to sit in the cab and see the pressure while the truck is running and what the pressure does as you give it gas. can't tell you exactly what it is supposed to be, don't have my book with me. you can probably post this in the tranny forum and someone give you the details. how many miles have you tried to run with the tranny like this?? i ate the clutches up in a 700r4 tranny cause i didn't have the cable just right. you should probably drop your pan also and make sure there is no clutch material. it's not hard to adjust that cable if you have the hose and gauge. whatever you do though, don't drive it till you get it fixed or you'll end up having to replace the clutches(if it's not too late already). if you have to take it to a shop to have them adjust the cable, tow it, do not drive it, even if it's just a mile or so. hope this helps.
its been runnin and ive drivin it around the block a few times which is how i found that its not shifting right. and there was a lil bit of clutch material int he pan. but far less then when i didi the initial flush and fluid change after drving it 50k miles. right now im waiting for a gasket to come from ford so i can reinstall the valve body. i cleaned it out and found some gunk that coulda been messin with the valves. also if i ate it up its only 85$ for the rebuild kit from ford. and if i have to i'll put the old tranny back in so that its driveable.
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