I'm going to use a tilt colum, out of an89 gm. but i'm having a problem pulling the switch I have no keys. I looked on the net but every thing i can find says you have to use the key to turn the switch to the on position to take it out. Anyone have any ideas how to do it without the keys? THANKS RUSTY

 

If the column is out, take it to a locksmith and have new key made.

 

The column is still in the car I need it to move the car. But the wheel is locked. RUSTY

 

Rusty,
Have you ever been inside a steering column? GM columns are fairly easy but you will need a couple of special tools (you can do it without it but you need some strong fingers). Steering wheel puller, lock plate spring compressor, etc.

You have to remove everything down to the turn signal switch. You don't have to pull the sitch all the way out, just loosen it up a bit to get to the lock cylinder underneath. Then pull the key buzzer switch and the lock lock bolt for the ignition lock cylinder. I think you do have to turn the switch on, but you can usually force it with a big pair of channel locks.

All in all its not too bad of a job. I'll see if I can find a breakdown of a steering column if you need it. Is it a tilt only column or a tilt and telescoping column?

Bobby

 

Bobby
A brake down would be nice if posible. I bought a manual but it don't go into very much detail at all. Its a tilt only. If i use a pair of channel locks will that mess it up to where i can't put in a new switch. THANKS RUSTY

 

You don't need to have the key cylinder turned to the on position to remove from an 89 GM. (should be the old single sided key)You are best off using the proper tools as suggested by 'bobbytnm'. If it does have telescopic steering, you will need a puller made for this, since it has the screw you will need to put into the steering shaft. On most models there is a screw (usualy torx) that holds the key cylinder in. Remove it and the cylinder will pull straight out.

Some do not have this screw, but a spring loaded retainer, and it is hidden. You will have to take something like a straight blade screw driver and hammer,and bust out a piece of pot metal to expose the retainer. Then simply press the retainer and pull the cylinder straight out.
Also, when you remove the horn pad, be careful not to break the plastic piece that the wire connects to.

 

I took so long typing this that you posted while I was typing. No telescopic... That's good!

 

I had the same problem, no key for the column. I just bought a replacement lock cylinder with key, and armed with a hf steering wheel puller and strong fingers, dove in. As Bobby said, it's not hard. Since the column is in the car, at least something is holding it still. I did mine out of the car, trying to hold it between my legs. -Rusty

 

Thanks fellas I'm going to try to get it home this weekend. Its about two hundred and forty miles round trip so I have to have all my ducks in a row before I go get it. I just hope it will fit on my 16' trailer its only 78 inches wide. Thanks for all your help as always. RUSTY

 

Bobby -

Yes, please post pics of how to remove the GM column lock. Ever since the tumbler in mine screwed up, I can't get it to lock or start, so I have been working it without a key for about two years now. I hot wired the starter solenoid to a switch to start it. I figure I'll have to swap it out sooner or later before the rest of the tumbler drops it goodies and the thing don't turn at all.

Help, please!

 

I have a somewhat related problem and perhaps one of you has been down this road. I am using a modified mid 70's Tbird column (tilt with the PRNDL on the column) that does not spring back to the run position from the start position. Any thought out there?

 

I think that problem would be in the ignition switch itself, which is mounted to the column under the dash. I don't remember any spring mechanism on the key tumbler or rod.
Jeff

 

Rusty, for the price of a new ignition switch you could call a local locksmith to come out and cut you a new key. Takes all of 5 minutes to do, and no disassembly required if he knows what he's doing. Be sure to explain the situation and ask if he is skilled at creating a key from a "wiggle impression". They put a blank in the lock and wiggle it. The bits will leave a slight impression. He then uses a hand cutter to snip the notches in the key. I have a locksmith friend that finds it quicker to do that with the door lock than use a wedge and jimmie to unlock a car with the keys locked inside, and he says it impresses the customers more when he hands them an extra key (plus he can usually sell them a magnet key safe for it as well) .

 

49willard, I think Jeff nailed this one, all the spring mechanism is in the switch itself which is mounted low on the column and connected with a rod.

Rusty and Randy, I didn't have a chance last night to poke around in my garage for a manual. I'll loof for a breakdown online today, if I can't find one I'll dig up one of my manuals tonight at home and try to scan it in.

The first step is to remove the horn pad (usually a couple of screws from behind) and the horn wire. Its spring loaded, push it in a twist it to the left approx 30 degrees and it will pullout.
Now if the steering wheel and column are not already marked take a small chisel or punch and mark the position.
Remove the steering wheel nut.
Remove steering wheel with a steering wheel puller.
Now you will see the lock plate, it is a flat plate with regularly spaced notches around the outside edge. This plate is held in place with a "C" clip, there is a large spring underneath it that keep pressure on it. This is where the special tool or strong fingers comes into play as you will need something to push down the lock plate while you work the "C" clip out of its notch in the column shaft (it can be done without the tool but what a pain in the rear) -- sometimes there is a clear to yellowish piece of plastic snapped onto the lock plate that need to be removed also.
With the lock plate removed you can remove the screw for the turn signal lever arm and remove the emergency flasher switch **** (small screw in the center of the ****)
At the bottom of the column pry loose the turn signal switch connecter from its mounting tabs to give the wires some slack.
Back at the top, remove the three screws that secure the turn signal switch and gently pull up the switch to gain access.
Pull up on it to remove the ignition key buzzer switch (kinda white plasic with two copper tang soming off of it...lift it up out of its slot with a pair of needle nose pliers)
Now remove the screw securing the ignition lock cylinder and pull the lock cylinder out.

Now you can reach into the ingnition lock cylinder hole and manually work the mechanism.

A new lock cylinder is about $10 at most parts stores.

I'll poke around and see if I can dig up a parts break down today, if not I'll scan one in this evening.
Bobby

 

This is not a parts breakdown but its a good write up of repairing another common problem of GM columns (loose pivot bolts). Hope its helpful,

http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

Bobby