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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New Flathead Break-in

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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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New Flathead Break-in

Any day now I should get my truck back with it's new re-built flattie, and I was wondering the best way to break it in. On another thread about carburators I posted, ALBUQ-F1 recomended a web site called this old car manual project ( http://www.tocmp.com/ ) and on that site I found an old article from the Union Oil Company giving recomendatinons as to the proper way to break in a new (old) engine. http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Buick/1...akIn/index.htm It all looks great, except this old truck is only used around town and I'll never put the kind of miles on it the Union article recommends with its procedure. It sounds like Union Oil used a race track!!! Can anyone give me any tips or ideas what I should do?

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Last edited by jreilly57; Jan 2, 2007 at 07:52 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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There is an absolutely first rate site by Hastings (piston ring mfr) that has the most practical break-in procedure.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi..._procedure.htm

(If you take off the "/breakin_procedure.htm" part of that, you'll see a whole page of extremely useful information).

Good luck!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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Good site, Ross. Its interesting to note that the priority for the flathead is the seating of the rings which is what is happening with the acceleration and deceleration. Other engines stress the 20 minute off idle run up and hold while the cam breaks-in with the lifters and work hardens the lobes. (The higher idle makes sure there is enough oil presssure.) This is not the priority with the flathead because the valvetrain does not have all of the moving parts and pressures of the OHV's. Get s timing on the engine and then get on the road as soon as possible and really floor it then back off--cycling that several times. Seat the rings!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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Damon, keep in mind that Hastings sells rings, not cams or lifters! I agree flatheads have much lower pressures than OHV's but cam pre-lube is just as essential for flatheads. The higher idle speeds recommended by Hastings (and everyone else) are to ensure oil is flung up onto the cam.

Jreilly, is your cam new?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:17 PM
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The best way to break in a new flathead is to put 50-60 years on it.
Good luck!
John
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:44 PM
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It all needs to be prelubed. And the cam guys will tell you that their product is the priority. If they do a flathead grind at all it is a miniscule amount of their business so they are likely to say the same thing if someone calls their tech-line. But I know Egge pistons will tell the same story about seating rings. Remember, they've done all the products for the many makers of flatheads out there from the turn of the century.

You are correct in that you can't oil too much in the earliest stages of break-in.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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I had my cam parkerized for all of the good stuff that that brings, holds oil better, work hardens like it should, wears well, breaks-in easily, etc. Its an Isky Max-1 grind, btw. I'll prelube the crap out of it so there will be no mistake.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 11:25 PM
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Damon, you got a flathead?!?! That's great!
 
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