Door lock Problems
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, Texas
Door lock Problems
I have a 2000 Ranger and both door locks are "sticking".
When I insert the key and try to turn it to unlock the door, it does not move. I have to twist it back and forth a few times before it finally unlocks the truck. Both the passenger and drivers side are having this problem.
I do not have power locks so this problem is very annoying.
Does anyone have any ideas on what may cause this or how to remedy the situation?
I have read that some have talked about spraying a lubricant (not WD-40) into the keyhole and the problem cleared up.
Any help will be appreciated.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
That sort of thing happens quite regularly where I live (northern Maine) due to the calcium that they put on the roads in the winter time. I just give it a dose of WD-40 or PB Blaster. The little plastic wand that comes taped to the side of the can works very well to direct the spray right where you want it. I put the little wand right inside the lock. It frees it up quite well. I usually end up doing that about two of three times during the winter. You want to have a cloth handy to wipe off the excess before it runs down the side of your door. (it gathers dust) WD-40 and/or PB Blaster will also thaw out a frozen door lock. Its good stuff to have around. Around here, it you cant fix it with WD-40 or duct tape, it ain't broken.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 696
Likes: 0
From: Lynchburg, VA
Extreme,
I have the same problem on my '99. And since you're in Dallas, I am assuming salt and freeze are not a problem. For me, I have to wiggle and toggle in/out, CW/CCW the key until it rotates to unlock. I was thinking the problem was more towards the key is worn or the tumblers inside the door lock are worn. I am anxious to see how you resolve this. My spare key is not as bad, but still it occurs. Have you tried a new key?
I have the same problem on my '99. And since you're in Dallas, I am assuming salt and freeze are not a problem. For me, I have to wiggle and toggle in/out, CW/CCW the key until it rotates to unlock. I was thinking the problem was more towards the key is worn or the tumblers inside the door lock are worn. I am anxious to see how you resolve this. My spare key is not as bad, but still it occurs. Have you tried a new key?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
From: SE Michigan
If the key doesn't insert easily into the lock you might try some dry graphite powder. Some auto parts stores carry it and so do some hardware stores. I comes in a small plastic squeeze tube that has a small tip that can be put part way into the lock so you can spray some in. Then insert the key and remove it about ten times and you should be able to feel it work better. It should also help with rotating the lock cylinder as well. If it seems like the first application of powder wasn't enough then spray some more in and rotate the lock both ways a dozen times or so and it should get better.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, Texas
Dan Robertson, thank you for the advice. I have seen alot of users say that this cleared everything up for them. I will either try this or the "dry graphite powder" suggested by Rangerman Stan.
pgw85706, it sounds like we have the same problem. And yes, the salt and freeze is not that big of an issue here in Dallas. One of the keys I have used since I got the truck from the lot. The other is a spare used about 5% of the time for emergencies only. Plus the ignition turns just fine without any problems. So I do not think that it is the keys themselves. But it may be the tumblers, hopefully some lubrication will address this.
Rangerman Stan, the key goes in the lock very easily. There is no added resistance. The only issue is when the key is turned to unlock the truck. Once the lock is turned then the mechanism works just fine. Since the key goes in without a problem, do you still suggest the "dry graphite powder"? Or should I try a liquid lubricant?
Thanks for the help guys. I will wait a few more days to see if there are any other ideas and then go from there.
pgw85706, it sounds like we have the same problem. And yes, the salt and freeze is not that big of an issue here in Dallas. One of the keys I have used since I got the truck from the lot. The other is a spare used about 5% of the time for emergencies only. Plus the ignition turns just fine without any problems. So I do not think that it is the keys themselves. But it may be the tumblers, hopefully some lubrication will address this.
Rangerman Stan, the key goes in the lock very easily. There is no added resistance. The only issue is when the key is turned to unlock the truck. Once the lock is turned then the mechanism works just fine. Since the key goes in without a problem, do you still suggest the "dry graphite powder"? Or should I try a liquid lubricant?
Thanks for the help guys. I will wait a few more days to see if there are any other ideas and then go from there.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
From: SE Michigan
Yes the graphite should make the lock cylinder rotate easier once you get some in there. You may need to kind of work with it a bit to get the powder in where it needs to go, but it will make a difference. Two good things about the powder is it will stay where you put it and it won't collect dust or dirt like liquids do. The only other thing to consider is if some of the other linkage to the locks might be binding when you try to turn the key. The lever on the door latch itself may not want to rotate very easy when you turn the key. If the graphite won't seem to work then you may want to check the lock lever on the latch.
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Twain Harte Ca
I have the save problem and I live in the mountains of California. I have fond that if I push the door in it will unlock. I push above the handle on the metal at the right bottem corner of the side window. It seems that the weather strips put pressure on the lock and by pushing on the door relieves it. Hope this helps. It sounds like it a common problem maybe Ford needs to have a recall?
Last edited by Motorsportsartist; Jan 3, 2007 at 01:05 AM.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 3
From: Durham, NC
To lubricate the lock, use graphite powder, not WD-40. If both locks are doing the same thing, you may have a worn key.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 156
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From: Virginia
Do you have more than 1 key to the truck? If so, try using the other key for a while. If you use the same key all the time, the teeth on the key will wear down and will not push the pins in the lock to the position they need to be in order to turn the tumbler. Your key is probably worn out. Also, if the key you're using is a copy or even a copy of a copy this could be the problem as well. Try the graphite and use your spare key. It's a good practice to switch the key you use every so often so they will wear the same.
Otherwise there is the possibility that the points on the pins in the tumbler are worn...that means the lock would have to be replaced.
Otherwise there is the possibility that the points on the pins in the tumbler are worn...that means the lock would have to be replaced.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 624
Likes: 2
From: FL
lubing locks
i had the same thing when i got my ranger a few weeks ago. the previous owner never used the locks so both sides had sticking tumblers /frozen up cylinders. i used liquified graphite lock lube to cure the problem instantly. the brand name on it is "lock-ease" . it's great stuff. try not to use wd-40
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
If you have to do the wiggle, jiggle thing, then the key or tumblers are worn. Once the key starts to turn, if it turns 'stiff', its not worn tumblers or worn key. It is either, bent or corroded linkage or problem at the locking part at the latch. I personally don't recommend dry powder graphite, but rather a silicone based lubricant. If WD40 or PBblaster is used to free up sticking tumblers, follow with a good lubricant. As suggested, lube the linkages and the latch well, (of course with the door panel removed) The 1999 Fords are an 8 cut key and prone to wear, especially when people have 5 pounds of keys hanging from the ignition.
As far as using all your keys and rotating them, that's ok, but I suggest keeping one, basically unused, so you will always have a good key to get copies from.
FYI, it is very possible for a key to work in the door and not the ignition, or vise,versa.
Neither one carries all the tumblers.
As far as using all your keys and rotating them, that's ok, but I suggest keeping one, basically unused, so you will always have a good key to get copies from.
FYI, it is very possible for a key to work in the door and not the ignition, or vise,versa.
Neither one carries all the tumblers.
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
I have the same problem with my 1998, it started about a month and a half ago, but i just kept shrugging it off telling myself, "next weekend i'll fix it", its mainly the drivers side though, not the passenger. I've heard from most people to just use some WD-40, but they also say to just take off the door panel to get to it, because its easy to take off and it allows you to get it everywhere you need it. anyone see anything wrong with this way of doing things???