cam sensor
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Buckeye Country
I don't think so, it has a lot to do with telling your coil pack to fire. There is an issue with incorrectly installed CMP sensors on '95 - '03 Rangers, and a TSB outlining a very technical procedure to diagnose a CMP sensor problem. Symptoms include: poor fuel economy, driveability Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P1336, P1309, P0340 with MIL light on. Loss of power, surge, hesitation and runs rough on acceleration may also be present.
If you are getting these codes or the other symptoms, it might be worth calling the dealer to see if there is a free out-of-warranty fix.
If you are getting these codes or the other symptoms, it might be worth calling the dealer to see if there is a free out-of-warranty fix.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 44
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From: pc alabama
after about 15 miles down the road it jerks and shakes around 3800- 4500rpms. sometimes if i let of the gas and hit again it will drive right. ive had this problem awhile now and cant figure it out. thanks for the info
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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OK.. first off clean your mass air flow sensor.
If that doesn't fix it then take a close look at the cam sensor synchro... goes where the distributor used to. Look closely at the hold down bolt and make sure it is tight and has not shifted.. if it looks like the "etch" marks from the bolt are shifted even just a little bit you might try adjusting it (like you would adjust timing on a distributor) so that the etch marks line up with the bolt again.
Just keep in mind by adjusting this you may throw the cam sensor out of synch (if it isn't already) and MAY make the problem worse... they make special synchronizing tools for these, but the only way to be 100% accurate is using waveform graphs and synchronizing it manually... requiring expensive diagnostic equipment (or a FORD WDS scanner).
Another possibility is restricted exhaust, poor fuel pressure/volume, ignition coil problems (also very likely) and a number of other things.
Good luck.
If that doesn't fix it then take a close look at the cam sensor synchro... goes where the distributor used to. Look closely at the hold down bolt and make sure it is tight and has not shifted.. if it looks like the "etch" marks from the bolt are shifted even just a little bit you might try adjusting it (like you would adjust timing on a distributor) so that the etch marks line up with the bolt again.
Just keep in mind by adjusting this you may throw the cam sensor out of synch (if it isn't already) and MAY make the problem worse... they make special synchronizing tools for these, but the only way to be 100% accurate is using waveform graphs and synchronizing it manually... requiring expensive diagnostic equipment (or a FORD WDS scanner).
Another possibility is restricted exhaust, poor fuel pressure/volume, ignition coil problems (also very likely) and a number of other things.
Good luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
The engine can start and run without a valid CMP signal, so just unplugging the harness connector won't really be of much use diagnostically.
What's the status of the ignition? Plugs and wires are good? What about fuel delivery - fuel filter been changed recently?
FWIW, on Ford with EDIS ignitions, the CMP signal is used only for sequencing the fuel injectors (SEFI), it is not used for ignition timing.
What's the status of the ignition? Plugs and wires are good? What about fuel delivery - fuel filter been changed recently?
FWIW, on Ford with EDIS ignitions, the CMP signal is used only for sequencing the fuel injectors (SEFI), it is not used for ignition timing.
Last edited by Rockledge; Jan 4, 2007 at 10:09 AM.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 44
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From: pc alabama
im leaning toward the synchro, ive already went through the exhaust, new fuel filter, plugs and wires, i put a new coil pack on but no difference so i put the old one back on, new crankshaft sensor, now i did at one time get a camshaft code, and i drove it about 15-20 miles to the ford dealership to get a new sensor. if already had this problem before i drove it like that. new egr valve, and dpfe sensor cleaned the tube from the egr to manifold. i am a mechanic, not an expert but i work on 4 wheelers, boats and vehicles. i even work at a boat dealership and some of the techs here that have all kinds of experience on everything arent shure. i was thinking it might be a tranny probly since it only does it when it heats up, but it doesnt seam to be slipping and it does it even when i manuelly shift it through all the gears. thanks for the info
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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I just read a TSB today on the 3.0... cutting out above 3000 rpm CAN be the synchro.
The reason it doesn't set a code is because the CMP Monitor shuts off above 2500 rpm, so I'd say there's a good chance it is in fact your problem.
Good luck
The reason it doesn't set a code is because the CMP Monitor shuts off above 2500 rpm, so I'd say there's a good chance it is in fact your problem.
Good luck
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