Electric Rear Window Binding/sloooow
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Ridgefield Park USA
Electric Rear Window Binding/sloooow
The electric rear window on my 2005 F350 is running realy slow, to the point I'm concerned it might not close once opened. Had it in for service before the holiday, it's going back in tomorrow. They didn't want it hanging around over the hoilday weekend and the tech was off. They are looking for a TSB on it. Has anyone else with an '05 had the same problem? If so, is there a TSB number you can share? Was hoping to save some time, they figure it will be tied up for two to three days!! Oh, I have a cap on it, they are talking about removing to work on the rear window. It's begining to sound like a nightmare!! Anyone with similar experence???
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 499
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From: Brew City, USA New Berlin
A while ago... probably a year ago there was a long thread on this subject. Couple of guys had the same experience. There was a lot of info, if you try to search for the threads you might find some good stuff.
Found this one... I think there was another, but I can't find it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...errerid=288563
Found this one... I think there was another, but I can't find it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...errerid=288563
Last edited by Milwaukee,WI; Jan 1, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Ridgefield Park USA
Baad Wrench, glad to see it a common problem. Was hoping to avoid replacing the window. Having the cap on the truck will make it a bigger job!!
Milwaukee, WI, Thanks was doing that earlier. Closes I found was dated back in 2004. Was hoping that the problem was common enough Ford had a TSB on by now.
Milwaukee, WI, Thanks was doing that earlier. Closes I found was dated back in 2004. Was hoping that the problem was common enough Ford had a TSB on by now.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 499
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From: Brew City, USA New Berlin
I don't know if you are in a cold climate, but mine freezes shut once in a while too.
I try to blow the water out as best I can with the air line after washing but just a little water in the track or weather stripping and it freezes shut. Unlike the door motors the rear slider motor isn't powerful enough to break it free.
I try to blow the water out as best I can with the air line after washing but just a little water in the track or weather stripping and it freezes shut. Unlike the door motors the rear slider motor isn't powerful enough to break it free.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 276
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From: Forest Hill
I have replaced several rear window motor assemblies on newer f 150 and 250s. the motors come with new cables, you don't have to replace the entire window. shouldn't take but an hour once they have the parts. The 250 is easier than the 150 because the back seat flips down out of the way.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Ridgefield Park USA
aerodude, I hope your right about just replacing the motor! Really can't understand why Ford would replace the whole window!! I don't think it's cost worthy! Sounds like these motors burn out rather easy!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 394
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From: s.f. bay area
On my 2004 they tried the easy stuff, put extra grease in the cable, sprayed silicon lube in the track etc. This helped, but really didn't fix the problem. They looked again and found that the window was "loose" in the track, causing it to get cocked a bit everytime the direction was changed from open to close. They somehow reglued the window glass to something and this solved the problem. Works really smooth and fast now even in the cold (if you can call what we get in California cold!).
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
I just had mine replaced at the dealer. I bought a used 2005 SD CC Lariat with the rear power slider. There is a TSB on the motor and it call for replacement, though I don't have the number. They ended up replacing the center window as well as the motor. I believe the motor has a stronger rating and the window was replaced as well as the track and cables. Something about the track is the main culprit. The service order showed a cost of around $900, but I ended up only paying a $100 deductable as I had run out of my used vehicle warranty period.
