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I was wondering if i might be doing any damage to my truck by using four wheel drive on the highway while most of it is covered in ice? I know that it shouldnt be used on dry pavement, but I just figured that if most of it is ice, and when there are dry patches I am driving straight so there wouldnt be any binding or anything.
I dont see there being any problem, but I thought I should ask everyone here because Im admit, I am not an expert, so any help here would be awesome.
You will need chains for driving on ice. It will not harm the 4 wheel drive but all 4 tires will simply slide on ice. I put chains on all 4 in severe conditions and just a pair up front for less severe weather. 4 wheel drive for just snow (still some traction)
Well, I have dealt with driving on icy roads since I have been driving. Living in North Dakota, I guess I am used to it. I have never used chains and i can only remember my dad using them a couple times.
About 3 days ago we got about 3 inches of snow, it started to melt a bit, and then last night it rained, and with below freezing temps today, everything is like a big skating rink out side except for a few of the higher traffic roads.
What I was wondering (just clarifying) was whether or not driving on ice/snow with periodic moments of dry pavement will cause problems. I didnt mean that driving on ice would cause problems, but about when I hit a patch of dry pavement.
You should be fine, Josh......You'll have constant "slippage"....even in minute, barely noticeable amounts, if you're driving on (mostly) ice, so the 4X4 should be fine. Won't assist you in stopping, though, so be careful. Check the owner's manual reference maximum recommended speeds when engaged in 4-Hi also......Occasional dry patches should not be a problem.
Shouldn't cause any problems. As long as all four wheels are traveling at the same speed you won't hurt anything.
Driving on dry pavement won't necessarily hurt anything either, however it will wear parts out quickly and waste lots of gas. I live in wisconsin and I know a lot of people who lock in in november and keep it that way until april, then they complain they have to replace u-joints every two years.
Be careful on those roads.
alright, these post clear up most of my concerns, but I have one more question. what about turning? what if I had to make a turn on a dry patch while locked in?
I have a 95 F150, and I am still trying to learn more about differentials and 4 wheel drive systems. So, can serious damage be done by turning on pavement while locked in? or is it more of a problem if you have lockers? from checking my axle codes, I have an open diff (not limited slip) If I am using the wrong terms, or have anything mixed up here, please correct me. Just rying to figure some stuff out
These trucks have the old u-joint drive shafts in the front. This seriously restricts how sharp you can turn in four wheel drive.
Regular lazy turns you find on most roads will be fine. It will be parking and slow speed manuvering you will feel it kind of skipping when turned past a certain point. The newer trucks with front wheel drive style axle shafts don't have this problem because CV joints can turn at most any angle. I don't know for sure but I don't think you can really break anything turning too sharp unless you crank it off and floor it. (just don't do that)
I have never had any expierence with front lockers, maybe some of the guys here have. might want to start a new topic just about them if you want more info.
I have driven thousands of miles in 4x4 hi on dry roads & never hurt anything.
It does cause you to use a LITTLE more fuel.
I have NEVER worn out a front axle. I have worn out u joints on both front & rear driveshafts. I have always figured u joints wear are a normal maintance item and expect to have to service them.
Just because you can feel some binding when turning sharp in a parking lot doesn't mean you are damageing your truck. It happens on ice too.
i leave mine locked in all winter. if ya come to a DRY corner ill just slip the leaver foword into 2wd then pull it back to 4wd when im strait.i replaced my stock junk auto hobs with some junk warnens a few years back
Just wears parts little use for gas. I drive 500-600 miles week and on country 2 lanes . If it remotly bad I lock in and leave it there .Somtimes 200 miles one way trip . I keep trucks 130000 or so And of 600000+ miles records and never fixed transfer . And replaced front ujionts before 130000 .I repack wheel bearings and check hubs/axel joints every year. Just leave hubs in and yank on handle if looks slippery. Good luck.
Thanks for all the info guys, sounds like I should be good for what I am doing.
Although, since for now I still have the auto hubs and an electronic shift transfer case I am not sure if switching out of 4HI will do anything for me. I know that it will disengage the transfer case from the front end, but the hubs will still be locked until I reverse out of them, right?
Now, I know that everyone is going to tell me to yank the hubs and put some manual ones in it, but its just not possible right now, but I know that I should loose em, so no one needs to tell me that (already been through that).
I also know that the elctronic shift Tcase isnt ideal, but hey, Its what I have, so i will have to work with it. what can you tell me about this shifting device (first time I have used an automatic one)
I have both manual and automatic hubs. I have had both on, and am currently running the auto hubs. I don't do any serious offroading at all, so the strength of the auto hubs are not an issue. I used to have the manuals and would lock them in and leave them until spring, popping into 4hi when needed. I did have enough of an increase in fuel consumption that I chose to install a set of autos I got from someone for free. The only downfall to the auto hubs is having to be stopped in order for the hubs to engage when going to 4hi. The fuel savings is worth it. Another thing I noticed with the manuals locked all the time was a vibration above 55 mph (I was never in 4hi at those speeds). I was not about to get out and unlock them every time I needed to hit the highway...
As far as how you are driving, you won't hurt anything, even in normal cornering. In tight parking lot driving I would recommend popping out of 4hi just for the sake of it being easier to turn the sharp corners (unless it is super slippery).
alright, sounds good - thanks for the info, sounds like I should be fine, and since I am not doing extreme offroading, mostly snow and trails - I should be fine with the autos for now.
Although, since for now I still have the auto hubs and an electronic shift transfer case I am not sure if switching out of 4HI will do anything for me. I know that it will disengage the transfer case from the front end, but the hubs will still be locked until I reverse out of them, right?
Yes, shifting out of 4wd is all you need to do to turn on dry pavement. The binding in the drivetrain when turning is because the front wheels make a larger arc than the rear wheels, as do the outside wheels versus the inside wheels. The differentials in the axles will allow the outside wheels to travel further than the inside wheels, but there is no differential action within the transfer case to relieve the front-back mismatch, hence the binding when in 4wd.
ok, that makes sense, starting to understand a little more about my truck everyday, its good to have people on here that are willing to help out a stranger! with this information I should be well equipped to handle anything ND can throw at me this winter!
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