Do I have to loosen all the bolts on the oil pan to get the seal in on the timing cover. Because it looks like I will have to take the starter off to get to the last couple of bolts. I have tried sqaushing the seal in and using scewdrivers as leverage and I just can't seem to get it. Also will the black RTV sealent be good enough to put around the end of the oil pan and should I put it on the timing cover along with the gasket. Sorry for so many questions.

 

If you have loosened most of the bolts on the oil pan go ahead and jack up the motor and replace the pan gasket. You broke the seal. The pan and timing cover should be no problem then. Line up the cover with the front seal and harmonic balancer then torque the bolts down tight. Check the condition of the oil pump while you are in there. You could also check the main and rod bearings. Clean out than pan also and shoot it with some paint. Make sure the pan flange is properly formed.

Normally just the bolts in the front cover are removed. Use black RTV for the front part of the pan gasket. Line up the cover with the front seal and harmonic balancer then torque the bolts down tight.

 

I figured I would have too go ahead and drop the oil pan. What do I look for on the oil pump and main and rod bearings. And do I have to loosen the motor mounts to jack the motor up.

 

Yes you will need to pull the nut on the bottom of the motor mounts. Once the engine is raised put blocking between the mounts and pedestals. I made a cradle to lift the engine that bears on the block side rails from wood: 2 ea 1x4 uprights with a 2x4 on edge between and a 2x4 laid flat under the 1x4's and 2x4. Secure everything together with construction screws.

Pull the oil pump, remove the cover and look for deep scratches, pits, and gouges in the rotors. Examine the tips of the rotors carefully. My pump looked like it had been pumping sand... A few light scratches is OK. Otherwise replace the pump.

Check the mains, especially the rear for wear. Wear will appear as copper and steel showing thru the babbitt material. Plastigage the clearances and replace the bearings if worn excessively. Check the rods the same way. It is easy to mike the rod journals when the rod caps are removed and the pistons pushed up in the bores. Use rubber hose to cover the rod bolts.

Make sure the measurements fall between these clearance limits or replace the bearings:

Mains:0.001-0.002"

Rods: 0.001-0.002"

The factory manual lists 0.0025" as a service limit, but I usually go ahead and replace bearings if they exceed 0.0020" as long as I am in there. Of course if you are going to be rebuilding soon you could let it go or if you are working outside in the freezing cold you might just let the bearings alone. Been there done that...