I don't watch all that stuff (there is another screen to flip to for the transmission PIDs) - I'd crash. It's logging so I can look at the data later if I need to see something I'm curious about. It's positioned so if I feel or hear something, I can flip the screen to grill the usual suspects - or to reassure me all is well. I don't have time to read all the gauges during a WOT test, but I have a lot to choose from if I want to know one or two PIDs.

As I drive along the highway in cruise control, I do "scan" the tablet along with all the other gauges - so I have a firm understanding of what's "normal" (and what's not) on Stinky. Case in point: I was driving to Bend, OR from Reno, NV (I was halfway home) a few weeks ago. I heard a familiar dreaded sound when I pulled into town and I looked at my gauges. My IPR was unusually high at idle - that was the confirming data that an injector was coming loose. Lift the hood, grab the mechanic's stethoscope, and listen. #2 was making noise. I popped the tops in the hotel parking lot and put the torque wrench to it. I set the wrench to 50 in/lbs (that's the threshold for needing to pull the injector and re-ring it) it clicked - whew. I slowly set it higher until the injector bolt gave way - 75 in/lbs. I now have a definitive number: 75 in/lbs of injector torque can be heard, and measured with the IPR/ICP combination. Torque the bolt, fire up the truck with the top off, and the IPR went back to normal.

As for injectors - I'm one of the few that has run new-reman and brand new back-to-back. Nothing less than new. Note that little dot after "new" - that means new, period. It's a different world when you put new ones in there.

Saying that... before you grab the mouse, grab the torque wrench first. My injectors were in the mood to play Whack-A-Mole and I had to bring that game to a conclusion before I could really hang the blame on the sticks. One of my 8 deadly sins was to use Lock-Tite gel on the injector bolts - the gel doesn't work in this application, but the normal stuff does. Another sin was to put the covers on too quick. I have to run the engine up to full temp, then torque 'em down again before grabbing the covers.

Air in fuel was shortening the life of my #2 and #7 injectors, I found my Hutch mod needed a second hose clamp on the line from the tank.

 

Back on the coolant temp sensor subject, I wonder if the stock gauge behavior is due to the gauge, or the sensor? If the latter, replacing the sensor with one that operated in a continuous, rather than stepwise, fashion would make the gauge useful. Does anyone know? I suppose looking at the sensor test procedure from the shop manual would tell us.

Mark

 

Better yet, I have 7 inch android head unit.
It's called Asteroid Smart. Check it out on amazon.

 

Very interesting question....I would guess the sensor is what controls the gauge so a different sensor type may work.

I think Ford went with the step type to keep owners from freaking out when they are towing. I've had an actual coolant temp gauge in a couple of my trucks and it does get a little freaky when towing a 7% grade with 25k lbs gross and the temp gauge begins to fly. Then the clutch fan locks up and the temps plummet down again.....hopefully.

 

That's exactly what I want to see! Between the Excursion hood installation, the intake noise, and my ringing ears, I rarely hear the fan clutch kick in. The stock gauge in my off-road 4Runner behaves that way, and it's really handy. Perhaps not for a soccer mom, but there aren't a lot of them 'round these parts.

This may be worth researching...

Mark

 

Is it possible that the tapped holes for the mounting bolts and or the bolt threads can get worn in higher mileage engines? It would not take a huge amount of slop to cause a tendency for loose bolts. Does the lock tite compensate for worn threads?

 

Just saw the date