transmission trouble
As I'm sure you can tell, I'm a female that doesn't know a lot about this kind of stuff so be gentle with me.
There is something under the seat so I suppose that's it.
It was not a ford dealer.
I have a digital camera. What do I need to take picture of?
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You need to have those jokers re-install the parts that they took out (which, I might ad, they overcharged for). Otherwise, your van will go nowhere.
As for the cause of the incorrect lock-ups of your transfer case, there may be many, including excessively worn front tires, or oil leakages on some of the sensors used by the AWD system. But I think it is safe to run the vehicle without the lock-up by disconnecting the control module.
Here is the lowdown on how the AWD system in these vans works. There is a transfer case that intercepts the driveline as it heads to the rear wheels. It takes some of the power from that driveshaft and runs it through a viscous clutch, which is basically a bunch of thin discs that sort of mesh together without actually touching. They are suspended in a thick grease about the consistency of honey. As the discs connected to the driveshaft spin, it causes the other set of discs to want to spin also, this is connected to a shaft that runs to the front wheels and makes them spin. There is some sort of mechanism, which I do not fully understand, in this, that is controlled by the ABS computer. The computer reads the wheel speeds, and watches for discrepancies in their motion. If one of the wheels is spinning significantly faster than the others, it knows that wheell is slipping. Since the vehicle is still dominantly RWD, the rear wheels will almost always start slipping first. When this happens, it locks up some stuff, and transfers more power to the from wheels in an attempt to control the slipping. When in this AWD lockup mode, the front wheels loose much of their freedom to spin independandtly. So tension will build up between the front and rear wheels when you turn sharply, and this can be felt as a clunking or hard shuddering. This can easily be duplicated in most 4WD trucks by turning on 4WD and turning sharply on dry pavement. The quickest fix is to unplug AWD module under the seat, no computer means no AWD lockup. There is still roughly a 30% torque transfer to the fronts, but since the viscous clutches can still turn freely, the tension never builds up. My complete transmission service including new fluid in the tranny, transfer case, minor repairs and service on the transfer case, new filter, new modulator, new gaskets on both the tranny and the transfer case, and basic diagnostics cost me $285 USD.
It was only in town when I was going slow that I ever had any of that trouble. I just wanted to get it looked at and fixed cause I was planning a trip for xmas to my daughter's in Florida and didn't want to mess anything up.
Needless to say, I never made it to my daughter's and my van's messed up!
I'd give anything to have found you guys earlier! This makes me sick!

Thank you for helping me!
I hope you got all the parts that those mechanics removed. You will need them to get your van to go again. That they did not know about the AWD control module indicates that they do not understand how this system works. Since the van won't move without those parts, you will have to either have someone come to your home to re-install them, or have it towed to a competent mechanic. You can make this proposition to the guys who did the work originally: If after they re-install the parts, and the van moves again, then it proves they screwed up. If the van starts clunking again, you can remove that module to see if it goes away. Then they should pay for their mistakes.
Khanty worte:
>but since the viscous clutches can still turn freely
You are describing a viscous coupling, but that's not how the AWD system in the Aerostar works. It is a wet clutch pack that is engaged by an electromagnet when the control module detects sufficient speed differences between the front and rear wheels; it does not rely on viscous fluids. The speed sensors are in the transfer case and rear differential. It's not just the rear wheels that can lose traction, so the control module just locks both ends together. In a turn, all wheels will turn at different rates, so a locked differential causes severe binding. The effect is usually the worst at low speeds, since that's when you're most likely to make the sharpest turns, making the wheels spin at the most different speeds. That, plus tires that are not evenly worn, makes the control module think that some form of slippage is occurring, thus engaging the clutch.
If you remove the front drive parts, the can may run as the TC clutch is engaged, but it can't run like that for very long before burning up. This may have happened, if you actually drove it like that very far.

Could someone give me sort of an idea as to about how much the parts I need would cost me? I'm sure that I'll end up having to sell it but I want to find out my options first.
Thanks, guys!
I just read the guideline and it specifically does not allow any legal discussion in the forum. Otherwise, FTE may get into trouble. As it turned out, I was the first one who violated that rule in this thread, so I'm going to delete all legal discussions in this thread, starting with mine. Please don't be offended.





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