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Today, when i was replacing my front shocks w/ bilsteins (only got the fronts done, so can't tell how the ride changed yet) I looked at the vacuum line for what I'm assuming is the hubs. It was one of the three lines that run parallel to the shock and attach to the hub. One was obviously brake line, one was an electrical connection, so I assumed the 3rd one was for the auto hubs...
Regardless, that hose seems to be dry rotting on both the driver and passenger sides, almost to the point of breaking (if i touch it, my fingers turn black). Does anybody else have this issue, and if so, whats the best way to replace the lines?
$60 for a vacuum hose kit?!? OUCH! Go to Napa, O'Riley's, CarQuest, etc. and get SILICONE vacuum lines for about 50 cents a foot. Sometimes they'll have other colors so you can mix n match to color coordinate your rig. Plus, they'll never dry rot and I've used these for years on my turbo plumbing in several vehicles as well as other vacuum lines with zero problems.
There is no lettering on my hubs - just a little red dot. But, I can turn the dial to either side fo that dot - one way is lock, the other is free. According to the manual, the dot is Auto.
As far as replacing the hoses - it would be nice to be able to set them to Auto during the winter (when I more likely have to use 4x4). Just a convienence, I can always just jump out and lock\unlock them as needed.
Hmmm.... never seen that hub. I have seen the auto/lock hubs (ESOF/vacuum actuated) and the free/lock (works like your standard warn, mile marker hub.... "old school") on the super duty trucks. That was also the only ones available when I went to the dealership to replace the damaged one on my work truck..... no mention of an auto/lock/free hub. Kind of silly to have the last one anyway because when you're not in 4wd and the hub is set to auto it is "free". Maybe I'm misreading what you wrote.....
During winter driving you can just leave the hubs in "lock" and shift into 4wd as needed. Not really that much extra wear and tear since it would be seasonal. I never saw a dramatic drop in MPG (maybe 1MPG at most, hard to tell since it was in and out of 4wd) or noticeable drag when it was in the "lock" position in my work truck (F350).
Last edited by sturzinator; Dec 29, 2006 at 12:54 PM.
I bought this Ex used, so I can only go by what I see and what's in the manual.
I've turned the hubs both ways past the dot and then tried turning the front axle. One way, it's definately locked , the other it's free. And the manual says the dot is Auto. This is while the truck is sitting with the engine off...mmmm, i didn't think about trying it with the engine running.
Does the ESOF system lock the hub with vacuum applied? Or releases the hub with the vaccum applied?
A little bit of both for the ESOF vacuum.... the engine definately has to be running, or at least the key to the on position in my case because I have an air pump (diesel, not sure what the gasser uses). In any case, start er up and then turn it to the supposedly free position and see if the hub locks.... well, do this after you have replaced the vacuum lines anyway.
The vacuum is applied to the hubs for 12-20 seconds and only requires something like 4psi to hold it (if I remember correctly). A second burst of vacuum is applied when the hub is released (turned to 2wd).... kind of like a vacuum sucking it out to lock it and then a second burst to suck it past the locking point to release it.... works like a click ball point pen in a way.
The vacuum hose seems to have a fitting right where it passes through the fender. I didn't get a chance to check the hose above this fitting, so for those who have the same rotting issue I do, is the hose on the engine side of this fitting bad too, or just the part in the wheel well?
If only the wheel well part is bad, what kind of fitting do you need on the replacement hose to make it work? Because I don't use my 4X4 that often, I don't think I can justify the $60 replacements, but the fittings look proprietary, so I was wondering how to use the plain vacuum tubing from an auto parts store like Bryan said. I don't know how you would connect it/find the connectors.
Bryan, if you read this, where did you order the fittings from, or what did you use instead?
No fittings required.... just pull the old one off and slide the new one on. There is a metal nipple on the hub housing and plastic one at the transition from the wheel well to the engine tubing (should be a metal tab attached to the frame that holds the plastic transition piece). The transition tubing is more of a hard/solid plastic line that rarely cracks. The ones in the wheel wells that are bad are rubber so they can flex with the suspension. If and when you replace them, silicone hose is the ONLY way to go for trouble free operation for the rest of the life of the truck.
The old hose may not want to come off the metal nipple at the hub right away, but pull hard or cut it off (be careful not to cut ABS or brake cable). The plastic side should pop right off.
Took the 2000 EX to Cape Hatteras, NC this week. The 4wd. gave me fits. It seemed to disengage by it self while in 4 high. Hubs did not engage when in auto so moved them to manual lock and shift to 4 high driving along and rear tires start spinning. Seemed to be in 2wd. Stopped and shifted into 4 low. Worked fine. Stopped again and shifted into 4 high. Driving along and seemed to go back to 2wd. Is this some of the same issues related to the vacuum lines on the hubs ? The 4wd has worked for years so this makes me wonder if it's related Hmmmm... What do you guys think.