Blackstone Labs says change oil...
#1
Blackstone Labs says change oil...
OK...so after my first year running with Shell Rotella 5W-40 syn and using two
Motorguard MG30's in parallel for bypass filtration i must say i'm pretty happy with the results. I changed the oil with 15k miles on it because of Blackstone's recommendation. My first oil sample was at 7k miles and came back excellent with the Lab saying " your filtration is doing a great job". Second sample after another 7k miles they recommended changing because lead creeped up to 10.
Insolubles were very low @ 0.2. If i changed my TP filter elements more often i probably could have gone longer. I changed my elements around every 5K miles
but the recommendation is every 3-4K miles. Sure is nice not having to deal with changing out 15 quarts of oil every 5k miles. Instead i change my filters and add two quarts of make up oil. Total time for change is 20 minutes.
I'd be interested on hearing what kind of results folks with the Oilguard system are getting as i almost went with their system instead.
Motorguard MG30's in parallel for bypass filtration i must say i'm pretty happy with the results. I changed the oil with 15k miles on it because of Blackstone's recommendation. My first oil sample was at 7k miles and came back excellent with the Lab saying " your filtration is doing a great job". Second sample after another 7k miles they recommended changing because lead creeped up to 10.
Insolubles were very low @ 0.2. If i changed my TP filter elements more often i probably could have gone longer. I changed my elements around every 5K miles
but the recommendation is every 3-4K miles. Sure is nice not having to deal with changing out 15 quarts of oil every 5k miles. Instead i change my filters and add two quarts of make up oil. Total time for change is 20 minutes.
I'd be interested on hearing what kind of results folks with the Oilguard system are getting as i almost went with their system instead.
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#4
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
Thats nice to hear, and it's nice to have you around again, you haven't been on much...
That makes me want to have bypass oil on my truck even more, because i like how much better it is for the engine. Do you recall how long the oil stayed honey color before turning black?
That makes me want to have bypass oil on my truck even more, because i like how much better it is for the engine. Do you recall how long the oil stayed honey color before turning black?
black coloring. I'm going to keep more of an eye on it this time around. Realizing
that about 2-3 quarts are still left behind in a full change makes me think it will
always start off with a slight shade of black which it currently shows after the
"full" change.
#5
Jim have you noticed any sign of the additive package being filtered out of the oil in your UOA's. I have been trying to decide on a bypass system and have read where the sub 1 micron filters can acually filter out the additives in the oil? But from your analysis Lead at 10 after 15K sounds pretty good.
#6
Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
Yeah Nut, good to see you around again. Which bypass did you go with again? I remember it uses the TP.
Ditto on Kris's ?? Also, does your OA test for antifoaming additive levels?
Ditto on Kris's ?? Also, does your OA test for antifoaming additive levels?
wife always likes having a full tp roll to hand.
My OA didn't test for the anti foam levels that i can remeber but i'll re-read the report.
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#8
Originally Posted by amiller93
Jim have you noticed any sign of the additive package being filtered out of the oil in your UOA's. I have been trying to decide on a bypass system and have read where the sub 1 micron filters can acually filter out the additives in the oil? But from your analysis Lead at 10 after 15K sounds pretty good.
dirty oil. The SAE also recommends bypass filtration of 1 micron or lower. Some of the big rig users run very expensive centrifigal sub micron bypass systems.
#9
Thats where i read it at I just never saw any numbers from someone that did UOA's after adding the bypass. From the looks in your gallery it appears you have the filters mounted on the inner body just under the driver, Does being horizontal nit matter with these? 2. Are 2 filtes required for the oil capacity in the 7.3 or did you just get 2 for extra filtering? and finally How accurate do you have to be in sizing the "Roll" I would imagine if it where too small and not compressed properly it could come apart?
#10
Originally Posted by amiller93
Does being horizontal nit matter with these? 2. Are 2 filtes required for the oil capacity in the 7.3 or did you just get 2 for extra filtering? and finally How accurate do you have to be in sizing the "Roll" I would imagine if it where too small and not compressed properly it could come apart?
change out intervals. The tapered ends of the housing seem to compress the roles nice and tight. Keep in mind these filters were originally designed for filtering compressed air which makes me think they're going to do a good job at anything else. Ralph recommends changing out a single element around 2k miles for a V8. Seems to me like a diesel with it's soot load would require sooner changes so i'm going every 3k miles with my dual elements(in parallel).
One thing i noted was you have to be careful of pinching tp in the gasket seal
and creating a leak. Also, the MG30's are better suited for a vertical mount due to oil drainback and ease of element change. Just couldn't find anywhere under the hood to mount the two filters.
Oh yeah, i guess the filters act as a supplemental oil cooler. Nice side benefit.
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