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Add to that the possibility of the fender liner slipping and pinching the block heater cord to a ground on the frame and you have much heat + flamable items in close proximity
Don’t forget about the plug on the end of your cord if you are building your own
Buy the expensive ones extra heavy duty, and since you going that far might as well go all out and get the lighted plug.
i used 10/3 cable on mine,
Block heater, tranny pan heater, oil pan heater, trickle charger. into a 4 outlet box mounted under the hood. 4' umbilical running out of grill.
1500 watts at 120 volts is drawing 12.5 amps. 14ga should cover it but I would go 12ga if the run was longer. Just be sure to use a cord that is in good condition. Besides that, I don't think the wire going from the truck side of the plug to the block heater is but 14 gauge at the most.
Another good idea is to use a heavy duty outdoor timer to turn the heater on about 3 hrs. before you leave in the morning. It will save power and prevent fire.
Before I ever tried my block heater after I bought the truck, I looked the cord over real well to look for any shorts or pinches. There've been a few burned down PSDs posted on the forums over the years, due to the block heater cord being in poor condition. Same could happen if the extension cord is in bad shape, as well.
1500 watts at 120 volts is drawing 12.5 amps. 14ga should cover it but I would go 12ga if the run was longer. Just be sure to use a cord that is in good condition. Besides that, I don't think the wire going from the truck side of the plug to the block heater is but 14 gauge at the most.
The heater is actually rated at approx. 1000watts. I measured the current with
an amp clamp at approx. 8amps. The heatiing element and connecting cable should measure around 15 ohms resistance.
Check out this guys fried PSD: LINK
Jim, our brains must be linked. After I posted what I did, at the same time as you posted, I went to google to search for that very same pic you posted. Found the guy's thread on TDS, and was about to edit my post to include a link to his pics, when I see your post w/ the exact same pic already.
PS - another way to calculate the amperage besides measuring w/ a meter, is that watts = volts x amps. So Amps would be 1000 watts divided by 120 volts, or about 8.3 amps.
The heater is actually rated at approx. 1000watts. I measured the current with
an amp clamp at approx. 8amps. The heatiing element and connecting cable should measure around 15 ohms resistance.
Check out this guys fried PSD: LINK
Thanks for the info Jim, and Ryan. I had no idea what the actual heater rating was, I based my calculation on the earlier posts.
John
Last edited by johnsps250; Dec 28, 2006 at 09:27 PM.
Yikes you guys are freaking me out. That's the last thing I need is a toasted truck. My block heater cord looks in good shape (still has the original plastic ribbed wire protector) my only concern is that no matter where I plug in my truck (one of two places) my extension cord always gets smashed by a garage door...no way to avoid it. Inside the garage is the only place to get power. Will this increase my chances of catching fire? I use 14 GA cords at both locations. Also, with all the snow we've been getting lately, it's impossible to keep snow and wet away from the cords. I've been real careful about keeping any moisture away from the connectors.
BTW we're in the middle of another blizzard here in Colorado. 10 inches on the ground right now and another 10-12 expected by Sunday. Yeee Hawww. We hadn't even finished diggin out from last week.
Don't garage doors often have a sort of rubber piece on the very bottom? I'd bet the door isn't smashing the cord enough to be actually pinching it w/ any force that you'd have to worry about.
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