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OK guys... looks like we have the light thing figured out. Now for the "heat" option... I found a source!!
I tend to get really cranked up when presented with a challenge like this one, and you guys have inspired me to new limits. I do not yet have any cost information, but it is entirely possible to get a replacement mirror glass and install a new heating grid element as an upgrade. I'll have to rely on you guys for the wiring details for inserting this option into our vehicles, but I know that some of you are up for that challenge just as much as I was up for the portion I've dealt with.
I'm going to check on the prices from Safelite tomorrow. Part numbers for the glass are #2316 (passenger side glass for the 02-F250 Trailer Tow style) and 2317 (driver's side). I'll post my findings.
If it works out then you can put it on a temporary switch until its cost effective to get the factory one on the door. My question is: Your in my neck of the woods, what do you want with heated mirrors? Mine never get frosted up unless there is a ton of humidity and even then its not that bad.
I can't get either my truck or suburban in my garage, and it definitely gets cold enough and frosty enough here in Birmingham to take advantage of this feature (like this morning). I actually have two things helping me keep this effort on a shoe-string budget... cash flow and exactly what you alluded to - it's not a really critical thing here, but useful all the same.
If it works out then you can put it on a temporary switch until its cost effective to get the factory one on the door.
Not quite sure which you are talking about, but my truck did not have power mirrors. They were manual, non-telescopic, non-heated. I got the factory power-mirror switch from a local stealer for $20. I used a regular power switch out of an old power supply to control the heat. It was a lot of fun (aka PITA) running all the wires and hooking up the switch without a pigtail to it. BUT, I found EVERYTHING I needed to know right here on this site!! When I first installed the mirrors I used the eurekaboy.com instructions which is now mentioned here quite often. I got all the diagrams here.
It was fun using the dremel to cut out the holes to mount the door panel switches. A little scary, but not impossible.
I just got off the phone with my local Safelite dealer, and all I can say now is... it's been really fun finding all the stuff, but...
.... it's just as cheap, if not cheaper, to buy the new mirrors complete!
WOW! Safelite wants $100 for each of the heated glass components on these tow mirrors. The non-heated glass components are $61 each, and I'm sure that the heating element will be at least $20 each, but probably more like $30-$40 each.
Therefore, to convert our non-heated non-signal tow mirrors to heated and signaled units, we are looking at:
$ 32 for 2 lights (JCW)
$ 12 for converter element (JCW)
$ 8 estimated shipping from JCW
$122 for non-heated glass components - or $200 for heated
$ 60 estimated cost for two heat elements - or $0 if heated glass is purchased
$ 20 estimated cost of mirror switch
Total = $252 - $272 for both mirrors, depending on the glass purchase
Compare that to what I found yesterday at $105-$145 per mirror COMPLETE plus the $20 switch, which totals $250-$310. This approach also has simpler installation requirements. I can't justify the DIY approach on this one. If/when I get a broken mirror, I'll investigate further. Until then, I'll keep wiping off the frost and making careful turns.
Last edited by F250-Newbie; Dec 29, 2006 at 08:43 AM.
If you don't have power mirrors at all and want to put power mirrors on, which is the easiest and cheapest way to do that?
Steve
There is no real easy way. My mirrors were completely manual and when I first put the newer style mirrors on I only connected the lights and turn signals. After a while, I decided to finish the job.
First off you need to buy the power mirrors. The paddle style are the cheapest and can be had on ebay for around $40 pair. Then you need the switch, I got mine at the dealer for $20.
Then you need to run all the wires and connect them to the switch as follows (thanks pflueger):
A. Here are the eight tabs on the mirror control switch.
1 - Power (hot at all times)
2 - Instrument illumination
3 - RH (dark green)
4 - LH (red)
5 - vehicle ground
6 - RH & LH (yellow)
7 - LH (dark blue)
8 - RH (purple)
B. Diagram of mirror switch tab layout
______-------______
|....1....2....3....4....|
|...........................|
|....5....6....7....8....|
---------------------
Unless you go to a junk yard, you are not really going to get a pigtail. I soldered my own onto the switch itself. I also put in a separate switch to turn the heat on and off.
This is all the info I used. It took me an entire afternoon to get all the wiring in, but I works great and I am very happy.