didnt see my post, probably went to who knows where, i have a 89' 150/302 that i can't start. running good stopped at a light, been at it a few hours no resolve. fuel pressure 40 psi,couldn't get spark from coil wire, replaced coil no help. money is tight and am wondering if i should replace ecu next or stator. i have a meter, but have never checked a ecu. craig

 

How do you know that there is no spark??

How much money do you have to spend??

If you know for a fact that it has to be the stator or the eec-iv, replace the stator first. Odds alone dictate that the stator will fail before the eec-iv.

 

thanks i will. tested spark at plug and at coil with a spark gap type set about 3/16ths nothing there.yea i could buy both but id rather spend it on groceries right now

 

have you had your module tested? That is where I would start.

 

If there is an Autozone or Checker Auto parts store near by, you can have them test the module and pick up coil on distributor for free.

 

I would not trust a parts store employee to test parts on my rig. Hell, I would not even trust them to check tire pressure...

 

The store I used to work for had the machine right out front where the customer could watch. If you have any question about the validity of the test have them run the same test on a new off the shelf part. If they refuse don't trust them. I know we never lied to anybody about the condition of their part. I can't say the same for other places.
Modules can be quite expensive but if you are given the option go with the higher quality one. You get what you pay for on automotive electronics.

 

My vote would be the TFI module (on the side of the distributor) is bad first and then the Hall Effect Switch (sensor in the distributor).
If the EEC IV Computer is bad you will still get spark but no fuel from the injectors.

 

I have an 86 efi ford pickup.Truck just quit running.I checked the fuel pressure 37 psi. I had spark from coil and spark plugs.I took the air cleaner hose off and sprayed starting fliud into engine.Di not even try to start.I concluded that the timing chain had jumped.I took front cover off of engine it was real loose but had not jumped time.I put new timing chain and gears.It still woulnt start(I forgot to mention it put test light across injector and had a blinking light on cranking) I cranked it did not try to start didnt backfire just cranked normally wouldnt start.I started playing with dist turned it and it started but didnt run right.Only way it would start is turn the dist. till the timing is way too fast.It may start or keep cranking back till it runs the battery down.I took the module off of my father laws and put mine on his and it run fine.So I dont think it is the module.It seems like the engine is loosing no 1 firing postion.Sometimes it will crank normally and sometimes kick back against starter.I dont know too much about ford efi but on other models it would probly be crank sensor or stator in this case.I bought a new stator.Have not tryed it yet.I have not checked codes dont have anything to check it with. Anybody got any ideas thanksa phik

 

phil rogers

Pull out the SPOUT, put a timing light on it and time it at 10* BTDC.

If the injectors are firing and you have spark the CMP (cam sensor or stator) sensor is OK.