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I tested the alternator on the pickup, it was only putting out 11 volts. I replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator. I then drove it 2 hours to the cabin in the dark with the heater and stereo going. Next morning, it started right up without any quirks. I drove it to work yesterday, it worked fine. This evening when I went to drive it home from work the starter sounded weak. The dash lights were dim on the way home, so I tried to restart it when I got home, it didn't have enough left.
What is wrong? The dimmer switch is pretty lose and worn out. Could it be the culprit. My harness to the alternator is kind of ratty, could that be it? I put the new style voltage regulator on it as per the ex-Ford-mechanic's recomendations. Could my battery be weak? I checked for a draw with the negative cable unhooked and used a circut tester between it and the battery. It only registered a .002. I am miffed and about to the point of taking it to a auto electric shop. I have to be really frustrated to do that. I am a do it all myself guy.
how about the starter? did you recently replace it?
i went through something similar last summer...i installed a rebuilt starter and it went bad after only a month, i put another one in and its been fine. get your starter tested.
No I haven't, The battery seems to drain dead after a few days of driving it. I am thinking about re-making the harness on the back of the alternator, since I can't seem to find one aftermarket. I think it could be either that or the worn out dimmer switch. I have checked all the wiring under the dash and it appears fine. I also checked for a draw and found nothing.
Could it be the starter relay? Could it be leaking voltage.
It really seems more like a charging issue to me since it is kind of a slow loss.
id go over the grounds, clean and tighten them and maybe a little dielectric compound on them to insure no build up of rust under the connection. i have had a problem before with my brake lights staying on and killing my battery after a couple days but i dont think thats your problem.
I had that problem when I was in highschool, so I constantly check the brake lights now. Everytime I go somewhere I walk behind my pickup so that I can check.
I'll check the grounds again, but I don't have a draw according to my voltage tester.
I think the alternator took a crap already. It is a Schucks lifetime guarantee reman peice aferall.
No I haven't, The battery seems to drain dead after a few days of driving it. I am thinking about re-making the harness on the back of the alternator, since I can't seem to find one aftermarket. I think it could be either that or the worn out dimmer switch. I have checked all the wiring under the dash and it appears fine. I also checked for a draw and found nothing.
Could it be the starter relay? Could it be leaking voltage.
It really seems more like a charging issue to me since it is kind of a slow loss.
Ford used basically the same alternator on cars and trucks from 1965 thru the 70's. You might look for one for a passenger car, take a photograph or two of your trucks connections before hunting.
The basic Ford part number for the harness is 14305.
The Ford part number for the dimmer switch is C0TZ-13A024-A
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 20, 2006 at 08:46 AM.
You the man, how did you know the part #s? Do you think this could be the problem? I was thinking about redoing the ground part of the harness, it is the ratty part.
So now the ? is, is the harness still available from Ford?
I doubt it...but you might find a NOS harness from one of the suppliers here. I felt that with pictures, you could hunt your local yards for a passenger car harness from the period.
That number I posted is only the basic Ford number...I don't have a source for the complete number...yet.
Mustang!!...Why didn't I think of that before? My mind is shot!! Try one from a 289 or 302 '65-72 Mustang...as long as the connectors are the same you're home free.
I would still be reluctant to replace the harness yet since the altinator is only producing 11 volts. Check to see if after you rev, 2500 or more rpm, the engine if the voltage output increases. A working altinator will show 14 volts or so. You need to flash the field for it to produce power. Even if you have a ratty harness it is still sending some voltage out. If that checks out, disconnect the battery and connect a 12 volt light between the battery negative post and the negative cable. Make sure to do this with the key off first. If the light is on you have a short some where. Pull one fuse at a time to isolate the circuit with the short.
Last edited by airharley; Dec 21, 2006 at 01:05 AM.
Reason: missing info
I replaced the alt and the volt reg a week ago and it is still doing the same thing. That is why I was going to replace the harness incase that is where the problem is. I tested it for a draw, and there wasn't one. The battery cables are in good shape, and the one to the starter is a yr old .00 gauge.
I spose the battery could be bad, but it works for a few days before it goes on strike.
Been driving the wife's Explorer, man it feels little compared to my lifted old bumpside. I sure like that truck, hope I can figure this out.
I run a sealed battery, "optima-wanna-be", Not sure that I can check the levels in it. I will just have to take it to Schucks and have them hook it up to their "magic-take-your-money-box". I haven't had a chance to get it down there yet, holidays are too busy. Next week I will get it done.
Optima's are way overpriced for my vehicles, maybe great in a custom streetrod where it hangs upside down under the dash?
Even those (gulp) Delco Freedom batteries go dry over time. I took 10 of 'em
group 27 off the job free because the charge eye was black, only thing wrong they needed water. I cut the top off one to locate the cell fill location, drilled 1/8" holes in the other 9 and added distilled water, sealed with RTV. Myself and friends have free batteries do to high tech maintance free batteries. Got to love "progress".
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