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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Help!!!! still losing charge

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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 01:01 AM
  #16  
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are you using a multi meter for your measurments? if so what voltage is it putting out since you replaced the alternator. and also test the continuity of the wires in the harness to the alternator. if it is not charging at all take the high quality reman junker back and get a replacement, if it is charging (test voltage before you crank the truck up and then after) replace the regulator.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 01:43 AM
  #17  
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From: "Islander"
Disconnect the regulator from the wiring harness, take a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) to the green wire in the wiring harness connector.
When running this will put the alternator into maximum charge, you should see a battery voltage of 13.8 volts. If you do it isn't a alternator problem.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #18  
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Lightbulb

I put a trickle charger on it for a couple of days, took it off, then I left town for four days. When I got back today I tested the battery and it was only at 11 volts. I tested a battery out of my '66 Ranchero that hasn't run in 2 yrs and it showed 13.45 volts, so I put it in the pickup. I will try that, and then try the last tests submitted. I'd try them now but it is raining outside and my pickup won't fit in my little one car "workshop".

Thank you for all of the help tendered, it is nice to not be alone in these stressful situations.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #19  
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From: "Islander"
A bad battery can put a unnecessary strain on the alternator which isn't a good thing for a long life.
Do a voltage check before starting, right after and after you drove around a while to see if alternator and regulator are doing their thing with your other battery.
Don't get sucked in on mega dollar 84 month batteries, cheap (no such thing these days) batteries can last as long.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 07:47 PM
  #20  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
If you have the altn that mount high on the block check and make sure that the rear altn terminals aren't shorting to the block. A common problem with after market altns.
The rubber top wares off when terminal is a little to long and over time with vibration if belt get loose. I've had to cut a few off in the passed yrs This also happen to a friiend. He Put a new on same as your doing until I fixed it for him..my 2cents
orich
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 09:16 PM
  #21  
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I have only had good luck with the Optimas in cold weather, all the other lesser batteries won't pump out enough power when the temps get below zero to start my truck.

First optima I had lasted 8yrs. I really like how the optimas are sealed, It never corroded on the terminals, which is nice since I had custom .00 gauge cables made for it.

My pickup is a 4x4 and I use it accordingly,we have seen some pretty country together. It is also my daily driver, of which I am rather proud to drive a classic everyday.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 09:20 PM
  #22  
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I run the 300 I6 with a low mount alt because of a aircompressor bracket that is above it.

Which reminds me, does anyone have a dual groove water pump pulley for the 300?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:37 AM
  #23  
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It wasn't the battery.

I'm gonna try your test Beemer Nut.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:52 AM
  #24  
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Your truck is negative ground..(positive ground last used in 1955). That may sound like a dumb response to your problem, but I've seen people hook 'em up backwards before.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 28, 2006 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:58 AM
  #25  
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It is hooked up correctly, This problem started on its own, I hadn't messed with anything before hand. I make sure to put the battery in correctly, I have heard horror stories about hooking up jumper cables backwards. I know this is different, but it scares me nonetheless. So I am careful of how I hook them up.

I have been thinking about converting it to a GM one wire setup to get past the harness. I think that it has to be it.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:12 AM
  #26  
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No power to the field post on the alt. This must be the problem.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #27  
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From: "Islander"
Those GM one wire install require a throttle blip to get them
to begin to charge.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 08:41 AM
  #28  
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Short?

So I checked all the wires to and from the alt for continuity, they all test good. I checked the power to the v reg checked out fine. When I plug it back into the v reg it drops 8 volts. So I took the v reg off the core support to get a better angle at the prongs on the back side. It shows 12 volts with v reg not grounded. The other wires check fine this way also.

It is slightly tempting to just insulate the v reg from grounding, but I know that it does not solve the problem and would more than likely haunt me later.

So now where do I look? What would be sucking power through its ground?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 08:53 AM
  #29  
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Exclamation .

Originally Posted by scottfreeman
So I checked all the wires to and from the alt for continuity, they all test good. I checked the power to the v reg checked out fine. When I plug it back into the v reg it drops 8 volts. So I took the v reg off the core support to get a better angle at the prongs on the back side. It shows 12 volts with v reg not grounded. The other wires check fine this way also.

It is slightly tempting to just insulate the v reg from grounding, but I know that it does not solve the problem and would more than likely haunt me later.

So now where do I look? What would be sucking power through its ground?
I'm no electrician..but this seems to be a simple problem.

Bad regulator...ground wire to body (on firewall), dead short. Plastic plug on regulator where wires plug in (wires could be touching inside plug).
 
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 09:18 AM
  #30  
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2 new regulators, bi-passed the plug just to make sure, could be a broken ground I spose. Too cold to be having to chase wires.
 
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