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how yall doing. i have a 90 f250 4x4 w/ the 351. x/cab. the truck runs good but i would like to get a a few more ponies, if you know me i want them for free. i have hollered out the cat and took off the muffler. is there any thing else i can do, like timming adjust and playing around with some sensors.
Advancing the timing a couple degrees will give her a little more pep, but that's about it for free performance unless you make the truck substantially lighter. The biggest bang for your buck upgrade is a cam. Comp Cams 35-255-5 pretty much maxes out the valvetrain and stock computer tables, that's pretty good for under $200 and a few hours of your time.
The biggest bang for your buck upgrade is a cam. Comp Cams 35-255-5 pretty much maxes out the valvetrain and stock computer tables, that's pretty good for under $200 and a few hours of your time.
what kind of gains are we talking here and not that these are economy cars but does it kill the MPG?
My experiece is you will see substantial gains, depending upon the condition of the motor and the exhaust system on the truck. The stock exhaust is a cork, so headers and a decent cat back make noticable improvements that add to what a cam will do. You can actually realize mileage improvements with these RV style cams because it boosts the low rpm torque output of the motor. BUT.. the new found thrust is had to resist so you'll find yourself standing on it more often, and it takes fuel to make power, so the mileage you get is entirely in how you drive. With my combo for example, I get worse milage around town, but much better on the HWY where cruising speeds are constant.
let me start by saying you provide lots of good info instead of jsut trying to show off how much you know(like some do) which is very appreciated. I'm fairly new to the ford world in but not cars/engines in general. when you said RV style cam it all kicked in. I had a toyota with the 22re that I put a 'RV' cam in. I was able to use 5th gear on the highway again and my mpg got slightly better. that is basiclay what i'm looking for out of this truck. not trying to make a race truck but a bit more civilized get up and go and towing power would be great.
so with the cam mentioned you said the rest of the valvetrain and the stock computer should be able to handle it without doing any other big changes? all my truck has is the 2nd cat removed and straight pipe from there back....no plans for headers, or the cam even imediatly but maybe down the road. jsut got the truck and trying to fix some other issues with it first.
what more can i do for hp for less than $1000
I have 1990 F250 5.8L auto 4x4 I pull a 28' tt
I have custom exhaust, k&n filter, rebuilt tranny with tow\haul tc, 33x12.50 tires
what more can i do for hp for less than $1000
I have 1990 F250 5.8L auto 4x4 I pull a 28' tt
I have custom exhaust, k&n filter, rebuilt tranny with tow\haul tc, 33x12.50 tires
thanks
scott
You can change the cam. You can port & polish the heads. Standard HP upgrades apply basically just do the homework before you do the swaps. Especially in the cam dept.
To put more power to the pavement, get the correct size tires for the truck
what more can i do for hp for less than $1000
I have 1990 F250 5.8L auto 4x4 I pull a 28' tt
I have custom exhaust, k&n filter, rebuilt tranny with tow\haul tc, 33x12.50 tires
thanks
scott
With your combo and pulling requirements you really need more gearing. Your truck likely has 3:55's, but with the big rubber you are loosing mechanical advantage. 3:73 or 4:10s would really help take the load off. I have heard people comment that the similar year Chev trucks seem to pull loads better than the Blue Oval trucks, but in many cases you'll find these Chevy's have more gearing. 3.73 is a very common ratio for a 1/2 ton Silverado equipped with 16" tires for example.
Last edited by Conanski; Dec 20, 2006 at 11:10 AM.
so with the cam mentioned you said the rest of the valvetrain and the stock computer should be able to handle it without doing any other big changes?
Yes. These cams are designed to be computer friendly and have a 114deg lobe seperation angle that maintains good vacuum. The computer uses it's tables and info from the sensors to keep the exhaust air/fuel ratio as close to optimum as possible. The speed density system found on most of this series trucks has no way to know how much air is passing through the motor, so you can increase the flow and make more power until you run into the limits of either the computer tables or the stock fuel delivery system. There is sufficient adjustment room in the tables to compensate for bad/dirty sensors and a wide range of environmental conditions with a stock motor. So it can also handle a certain amount of performance improvement. The limit of the 19lb injectors is about 260-275hp with factory fuel pressure. You can get upwards of 350hp out of them with higher pressure though.
thanks for all the info, i do get about 7-8 mpg highway. i'm just wanting to have a little more get up and go to her. i think a cam will be my next investment.
I have run 33s on every truck ive owned and never had much change in power and mileage this truck has a rebuilt engine maybe 30,000 ago and it only gets 8-9mpg at the best. it does have 3:55s and I was thinking about going to 4:10s it only runs about 2200@65mph its just a dog on top end, it has great low end. I was looking at a computer mod. for more power and im going to check the timing to see where it is at and see if i can advance it any. I dont want to put to much money in this engine because im swapping it for a HP 351w from a crate company with an aftermarket fuel injection. BTW will the AOD work behind this engine or will i have to change something
Take me back to school for camshafts. I trust yall that the camshaft listed above is the best for speed density. How much of a gain are we talking about vs stock. How about what else is needed with this cam for the install and such. How hard is the install? Do I have a hydrallic flat tappet set up? I think I have a roller setup because it is a 94 f250 with a 351w.
it's more of a generic term used to mean the cam is more for low RPM torque/power instead of high RPM horsepower. which is what you need if your towing something like a RV.
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