Intermittant running problem
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Intermittant running problem
I have 1992 f-150 4.9 six cyl 5 speed 110,000 miles absolute stock, no modifications whatsoever.
It starts and runs fine but sometimes when starting it does not want to start right away. It seems to get a rich flooded condition and seems to be missing on a cylinder or two, then I see black smoke when it starts. It then smooths out and runs fine. It will start properly and run fine many times before it does this again. I was getting an intermittant check engine light and I took it to autozone to get it tested but they cant check a 1992 model - he said it sounds like a failing 02 sensor and I bought a new one and installed it. I thought problem was gone, I have not had another check engine light and it started and ran fine many times but then the rich flooded start occurred again like before. Any thoughts on this.
Thanks, Tom
It starts and runs fine but sometimes when starting it does not want to start right away. It seems to get a rich flooded condition and seems to be missing on a cylinder or two, then I see black smoke when it starts. It then smooths out and runs fine. It will start properly and run fine many times before it does this again. I was getting an intermittant check engine light and I took it to autozone to get it tested but they cant check a 1992 model - he said it sounds like a failing 02 sensor and I bought a new one and installed it. I thought problem was gone, I have not had another check engine light and it started and ran fine many times but then the rich flooded start occurred again like before. Any thoughts on this.
Thanks, Tom
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
go here and read how to do it:
http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
does fuel pump run for 3-5 seconds with key on motor off or does it run on and on?
http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm
does fuel pump run for 3-5 seconds with key on motor off or does it run on and on?
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Truck has dual tanks and fuel pump runs for a second or two then stops on both tank selections when turning key on prior to starting. If I have a 92 model do I still have to hook up a volt meter to anything to get codes and if so where exactly are these test connectors - Thanks Tom
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i think i have sorta the same problem. when i start my truck it'll start and run fine but after a little while of driving it seems like it cuts down to 5 cylinders and a check engine light comes on. it only does this once in a while and usually fixes itself. also sometimes when it does this ill try to give but as soon as i do it goes right back to idle, when i let my foot off of the gass then it shoots up to about 2500 rpm for a second then comes back down. any thoughts?
1992 f150,4.9
1992 f150,4.9
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by dracip
If I have a 92 model do I still have to hook up a volt meter to anything to get codes and if so where exactly are these test connectors - Thanks Tom
Go here for information on how to do it.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
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heres the latest - On my 1992 ford f150 4.9 six - it still has a starting problem intermittantly- Seems like a flooding problem and engine wont start unless I floor the gas pedal. Then it will crank and run rough and spit out black smoke which clears up and then runs fine at all speeds and idle. I have replaced the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and o2 sensor and Ihave cleaned the throttle body but I still have the same problem. (nothing has changed) I would like to read the codes my self but the sites that show you how to do it dont show the exact test connectors I have and I sure dont want to hook up something wrong and fry a computer. I have three connectors on the innner fender - 2 small and 1 larger that says test on it
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From: Easton,Ks
Did you go to:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
?
You just ground the plug with one wire on it, the STI (Self Test Input).
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
?
You just ground the plug with one wire on it, the STI (Self Test Input).
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Originally Posted by subford
Did you go to:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
?
You just ground the plug with one wire on it, the STI (Self Test Input).
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
?
You just ground the plug with one wire on it, the STI (Self Test Input).
The STI connector is underneath the black cover that reads:
EEC test - on my 89 it is a yellow wire with a thin red stripe
located on the drivers side fenderwell near the air cleaner box
I made a jumper wire with a small spade connecter (male terminal) and an aligator clip on the other end...
just connect the now plugged in STI to a good ground
sit in the drivers seat, turn on the key..be ready with a pen and paper and count the blinks of the check engine light
make sure to visit the fordfuelinjection site to understand the flashes
KOEO = KEY ON ENGINE OFF
CM = CONTINUOUS MEMORY
KOER = KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING
then come back and post codes..
Subford happened to help me out a couple of times, like the rest of the folks here...it is amazing the knowlege and the length people will go to help you out...
Subford knows these trucks inside out and backwards..down to the last ohm
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Got codes 116,118,327 and 332. 116 and 118 indicate a problem with coolant temp sensor and 327 and 332 indicate an issue with egr sensor - I think the egr related codes are from when a mechanic told me to unplug the egr vacuum hose once when the truck was not running smoothly and of course as soon as I did the CEL came on but when the vacuum hose was reconnected the CEL went back off. I did install a new ford brand egr valve a year or so ago. Could the coolant temp sensor cause this starting problem I am having?
Thanks for all the help, Tom
Thanks for all the help, Tom
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From: Easton,Ks
Which test are these codes from?
KOEO = KEY ON ENGINE OFF
CM = CONTINUOUS MEMORY
KOER = KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING
If it were just the KOEO then a pervious error from pulling the hose off would not be indicated.
An engine coolant temp sensor should not cause black smoke at startup and neither would an O2 sensor.
Code 118 says that the ECT sensor says the engine coolant is below 0* F.
How cold was it out when you did this test and also note that all of these self tests are to be done on a warm engine that has ran for a while to get a 111 code.
A 118 would cause black smoke on a warm engine if the ECT stayed sending this information to the PCM. Also the O2 sensor would never be looked at.
If the engine was warm then change the ECT sensor, this is the one with two wires on it.
The EGR is normally closed at startup and idle and if it were stuck open it would make the engine run a little leaner and idle poorly but no black smoke.
KOEO = KEY ON ENGINE OFF
CM = CONTINUOUS MEMORY
KOER = KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING
If it were just the KOEO then a pervious error from pulling the hose off would not be indicated.
An engine coolant temp sensor should not cause black smoke at startup and neither would an O2 sensor.
Code 118 says that the ECT sensor says the engine coolant is below 0* F.
How cold was it out when you did this test and also note that all of these self tests are to be done on a warm engine that has ran for a while to get a 111 code.
A 118 would cause black smoke on a warm engine if the ECT stayed sending this information to the PCM. Also the O2 sensor would never be looked at.
If the engine was warm then change the ECT sensor, this is the one with two wires on it.
The EGR is normally closed at startup and idle and if it were stuck open it would make the engine run a little leaner and idle poorly but no black smoke.
Last edited by subford; Jan 8, 2007 at 08:47 AM.
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Did test as KOEO - engine had cooled off pretty much since last drive and the outside temperature was about 52 degrees. I guess I should warm it up and try the codes again.
Today I drove the truck to work, turned it off and then restarted it and it started fine. After work it started fine and I drove it a short distance to pick up something and it again started fine. No problems today.
Checked my records and about a year and a half ago when it was in for a new clutch the mechanic replaced the coolant temp sender due to a malfunction code.
I will check codes with hot engine and post results.
About three years ago when the egr was hooked up to the vacuum hose it would Idle perfect and would go 65 mph perfect. At midrange speeds it would buck a little and was annoying. If I unhooked the vacuum to the egr it would run alot smoother in mid range speeds. Thought egr was problem at the time and replaced it with new ford egr valve and used old sensor but nothing changed.
Thanks for your time and interest guys - Tom
Also if I ever figure this truck out how do you clear the codes
Today I drove the truck to work, turned it off and then restarted it and it started fine. After work it started fine and I drove it a short distance to pick up something and it again started fine. No problems today.
Checked my records and about a year and a half ago when it was in for a new clutch the mechanic replaced the coolant temp sender due to a malfunction code.
I will check codes with hot engine and post results.
About three years ago when the egr was hooked up to the vacuum hose it would Idle perfect and would go 65 mph perfect. At midrange speeds it would buck a little and was annoying. If I unhooked the vacuum to the egr it would run alot smoother in mid range speeds. Thought egr was problem at the time and replaced it with new ford egr valve and used old sensor but nothing changed.
Thanks for your time and interest guys - Tom
Also if I ever figure this truck out how do you clear the codes
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by dracip
About three years ago when the egr was hooked up to the vacuum hose it would Idle perfect and would go 65 mph perfect. At midrange speeds it would buck a little and was annoying. If I unhooked the vacuum to the egr it would run alot smoother in mid range speeds. Thought egr was problem at the time and replaced it with new ford egr valve and used old sensor but nothing changed.
Originally Posted by dracip
Also if I ever figure this truck out how do you clear the codes
NOTE:
Do not disconnect battery to clear Continuous Memory Codes. This will erase the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) information which may cause a driveability concern.
1. Run the Key On Engine Off Self-Test
2. When the Service Codes begin to be displayed, deactivate Self-Test:
Remove the jumper wire from between Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Signal Return Pin of the Self-Test connector or ground.
3. The Continuous Memory codes will be erased from the processor's memory.
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attn; subford
Finally got a chance to check codes on truck after a run when it was good and warmed up and got following codes 118,126,327,332 and 522. Experience with truck today was as follows; Cold morning 31 degrees started and idled fine except briefly got a check engine light that shortly went out. During drive to work got another check engine light for next ten minutes of trip then turned engine off at fast food place. Restarted fine with no check engine light the rest of the way to work. Truck started fine on way home from work no check engine light all the way home. This evening before running test on truck I started it up to be sure it was good and warm. On this Startup I got the rich condition with lot of dark smoke and then it cleared up and went to idle. While it was idling I unplugged the map sensor elec connector and truck idle went up so I reconnected it and idle went back to normal. I then ran KOEO test and got the above codes. What do you recommend and thanks alot - Tom