HELP!! Trucks missing...no power... check engine light
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Joined: Dec 2006
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HELP!! Trucks missing...no power... check engine light
ok.. new to this but need help quick!! Just traded our truck in for a 2000 Ford F150 last night. On the way home from the dealer, coming up a hill, when shifting into overdrive, it felt like the bottom jolted. Kind of shifted out rough on the rest of the way home.
Today, no problems with shifting out but it's missing TERRIBLY!!! This afternoon the check engine light came on and it has very very little power. It will idle fine will sitting still but as soon as you begin appling the gas, its starts spitting and sputtering.
BTW, the tach didn't work when we test drove it, it was actually on the 6 instead of the 1. Then half way home it jumped over to one and started working.. then today, back to 6 not working.. HELPPPPPPPP... (Of course, it's used so it was an as is deal and they tell me they are not responsible.. even though it wasnt 2 hrs from the time we left) any suggestions????????
Today, no problems with shifting out but it's missing TERRIBLY!!! This afternoon the check engine light came on and it has very very little power. It will idle fine will sitting still but as soon as you begin appling the gas, its starts spitting and sputtering.
BTW, the tach didn't work when we test drove it, it was actually on the 6 instead of the 1. Then half way home it jumped over to one and started working.. then today, back to 6 not working.. HELPPPPPPPP... (Of course, it's used so it was an as is deal and they tell me they are not responsible.. even though it wasnt 2 hrs from the time we left) any suggestions????????
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,077
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From: None of your business
Check for coolant in the oil and vice versa. I believe it was the 2000s that are known for head gasket and intake manifold gasket failures. I know that one of the two are bad on mine.
Check your local laws. Many states have a 3 day or so cool down period in case you make a bad decision. Check quickly.
Mike
Check your local laws. Many states have a 3 day or so cool down period in case you make a bad decision. Check quickly.
Mike
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Junior User
Joined: May 2006
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Originally Posted by BLK94F150
Check your local laws. Many states have a 3 day or so cool down period in case you make a bad decision. Check quickly.
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Freshman User
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Like mentioned above, have the code scan and start from there. Probably just a cylinder misfiring caused by a bad coil on the plug. But with that mileage, it will be wise to replace the plug as well. Once diagnosed and if happened to be coil on the plug, it's your choice to replace all of the coil on the plug or just replace the bad one. they're not cheap especially if you go to dealer, from the local autoparts store, they're about $60 a piece. Best way will be Ebay, I got a whole set of 8 for $120.00 bucks, I don't think they're OEM as specified, but works great and no issue.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,849
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From: Seattle
Alot of the ones on Ebay are not OEM factory parts, I know I looked in to buying every one they had for the price they were selling them for.
The Ford factory coils for the 4.6L and 5.4L list is $88.04ea I sell them for $47.54 ea still $120 vs $380 big difference.
So if you need them at least you know there are some choices out there on where to purchase them.
The dealer should step up and fix the problem.
Ed
The Ford factory coils for the 4.6L and 5.4L list is $88.04ea I sell them for $47.54 ea still $120 vs $380 big difference.
So if you need them at least you know there are some choices out there on where to purchase them.
The dealer should step up and fix the problem.
Ed
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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Originally Posted by discountfordpart
Alot of the ones on Ebay are not OEM factory parts, I know I looked in to buying every one they had for the price they were selling them for.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 2
From: Ringgold GA.
Definitely have the codes scaned. You can spen alot of money throwing parts at the truck trying to fix it. The OBDII system is pretty good at narrowing it down. I had a '98 that started missing and shifting hard, spent about $300 chaseing it before I finally got the codes read. Turned out it was the mass airflow sensor. Good luck, keep us posted.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
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If it runs ok up to a certain RPM then starts choking and chugging, it may be a clogged catalytic converter. These don't generally just clog by themselves though. It may be a bad O2 sensor or something causing the engine to eat the converter like that. If it is a converter, look deeper to find the cause.
