When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
in my oil cooler where the elbow with the filter end there is a plug there..can i get a good reading from that port??? or is it the coolent that plug go,s too.or do i half to pull a plug from the block??
Ron take a look at www.oilguard.com they hav a good picture of the 2 plugs they use for there oil bypass filter. The one your talking about and one a little further back.
This is the place to get an oil pressure reading if you plan to install an oil bypass filter. You can see the return hose for my Oil Guard unit in that picture.
This is the place to get an oil pressure reading if you plan to install an oil bypass filter. You can see the return hose for my Oil Guard unit in that picture.
thank you...i see that when i was down there...do you get a good reading there??
Yes. The reading I get there is just fine. It sits at 50 psi most of the time. Once the oil is warmed up, it will drop to about 25 psi at idle, but jumps right back up to 50 psi with a few RPMs.
Thanks - I had them done at a local shop. I don't have the tools or experience to weld aluminum like that.
The sending units on the oil pump res: one is for oil temp, the other is oil pressure. Yes, I have two oil pressure sensors, one on the HPOP res and one on the block. I have a switch in the cab (very small, to the left of my F5 box) where I can select which pressure sending unit is displayed on the gauge. I think I have a pic of that switch in my Gauges album of my Webshots.
what's more important to know, oil pressure or oil temp?
I have a Banks oil temp gauge, but I rely on the truck's oil pressure gauge
I may have to add another gauge
I dove head first into what the factory oil pressure gauge does, and ended up learning quite a bit. First off, it takes its reading from the HPOP resivoir, which does run a lower pressure (about 25 psi all the time in mine) than the block. Second, the factory oil pressure sending unit is just a switch. It is set to activate around 7 psi of pressure. Above 7 psi, it shows full pressure, below 7 psi and it shows zero. But, if there really were zero oil pressure in the HPOP resivoir, the truck would not run because there would be no oil to fire the injectors. Third, the sending unit is wired directly to the gauge on the dash. It bypasses the PCM completely, and the truck does not use oil pressure for anything other than a dash reading.
Basically, the dash gauge is a big time over glorified idiot light. And even if the pressure does drop, the light next to the gauge will illuminate as well. I see absoutley no point in having the factory gauge setup the way it is. Perhaps if it were a variable resistance sending unit instead of a switch, it would be better.
To sum it up, I think oil temp is the most important. The PCM does read and use oil temp. Plus, I've found that when the factory temp gauge reads normal, the oil is not yet completely up to operating temp.
That being said, I obviously do have an oil pressuge gauge too. I just like to have a bunch of info about what's going on with my truck right in front of me. If you like the gauges, and want to get a real reading, an aftermarket oil pressure gauge is the only way to go.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.