Brake light and alternator light
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Brake light and alternator light
New to the site. It's looks great. Just looking for some help. I have an 73 f250 2wd. Recently replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, and battery. Now the alt light on the cluster is staying on. Not sure why seems to be charging good. Almost 13volts. Also new rear brakes were installed. Same thing, light on the cluster stays on. Now fluid leaking. I pulled the drums and check wheel cylinders, now fluid. Checked all the lines front calipers. I don't see any leaks. Bleed the lines pedal seems sturdy but the light still stays on. Please help!!!!!!!
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From: Northern California
What about your Oil Pressure light, does it come on at all? Does it flash at you when you start the truck?
Did the altenator light and the brake light come on at the same time, or did they come on seperate with each individual job?
Did the altenator light and the brake light come on at the same time, or did they come on seperate with each individual job?
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Alt light ?
Is this at idle or revved up.
Revved at 1000 rpm you should get about 15.2 volts.
12.8v at idle.
Brake light:
The switch need re-centering.
You need to relocate the switch by moving it back to its center slot inside the PPV.
Is this at idle or revved up.
Revved at 1000 rpm you should get about 15.2 volts.
12.8v at idle.
Brake light:
The switch need re-centering.
You need to relocate the switch by moving it back to its center slot inside the PPV.
Post Fiend
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by harvickfan1011
Not sure about the lights coming on at the same time, is there a commom fix?
Well, if your brake warning light, oil light, and ammeter light was all burning at the same time, it could be your ignition switch, or a short in the warning system wiring.
However, since you worked on both the charging system, and the brake system, it's probably what Mil1ion is suggesting.
There are tons of posts and threads within the 1973 to 1979 forum that deal with reseting the porportioning valve. mil1ion should be able to look them up or tell you more about it.
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This is the best thread I can find in the few minutes I had to look regarding your brake warning light.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ing-light.html
The most unstressful way to make it better is the 2 person method of a person pushing on the pedal while the other opens a brake line (just a crack) until the light goes out.
In Laymans terms:
The piston goes back and forth and turn the light on depending on which brake circuit the fluid loss was at fault.
If the loss was the rear circuit (which turned the light on) ...the front line has to be opened while pressing brake pedal to simulate fluid loss and move the switch the other direction.
Of course all brake repairs have to be made first.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ing-light.html
The most unstressful way to make it better is the 2 person method of a person pushing on the pedal while the other opens a brake line (just a crack) until the light goes out.
In Laymans terms:
The piston goes back and forth and turn the light on depending on which brake circuit the fluid loss was at fault.
If the loss was the rear circuit (which turned the light on) ...the front line has to be opened while pressing brake pedal to simulate fluid loss and move the switch the other direction.
Of course all brake repairs have to be made first.
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Thanks for the link dennis. That fixed the brake light. The alternator is showing 12.6 volts at idle and 1000 rpm. Is there any thing that I over looking? All the parts in the ciruit are new.Thanks for all the help. This is a great site for people like myself.
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at 1000 rpm thr VR should kick that voltage up to 13.8 v - 15.2 v.
Maybe replace the VR..they don't cost much.
The "Standard" product line is okay parts.
Maybe replace the VR..they don't cost much.
The "Standard" product line is okay parts.
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I really need help. Today I went to oreillys and had them check my alternator. There computer said it wasn't charging. So the guy was nice enough to help me take it off on the spot and check it. It check good. He also gave a repalcement alternator, voltage regualtor, and tested the new battery. Everything was good off the truck. As soon as it was put on, same thing. Truck runs the battery dead. Is there something I'm missing here. You can put a multimeter on the battery and it doesn't show drain with the truck shut off. Voltage stays in the high 12's. Also had him check the starter and soleniod. Also good. Any hints tips or directions would be much appreciated. Thanks for the continued help.
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Here all the stuff I did tonight. I pulled all the fuses, unhooked the radio, unhooked the istrument cluster, cleand all the connections in the circuit that I could find. and still no change in the voltage 12.5. One thing I don't understand is the haynes manual that I have has a 3 wire hook up, my truck has four on the alternator. Also the voltage regulator in the manual has different hook up than the truck. My harness isn't long enough to hook it the way the book says. So if anyone has a drawing for a 1973 f250 360v8 2wd manual tranny could you post. All the drawings I found are four a 74 and up. Thanks for all the help.
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Just wanted to thank everyone for there help. I finally found what was wrong. There were bad connections on the the regulator plug in. I have to cut the plug off and put new lugs on. Once again thanks for all the help.
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I'm back. I just thought I had it fixed. Had the alternator checked again. Everything is testing good. But this morning on the way to work light came on again. It's not getting a charge. Is there a way to test the regulator? Thats the only thing the parts store can't test. Anyway I put all new wire from the regulator to the alternator and checked the fusible link and all is fine. The wierd thing is the battery is not draining. It's staying strong enough to drive. It is just holding at 12.4 volts. Then 12.1 when it's running. Any ideas? Possibly a short? Bad Regulator? Regulator is new, 2 days old.
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The diagram that is shown on this thread is different from my truck, and my haynes manual. The regulator has four wires and so does the alternator.
Regulator: I or #1 terminal- green/red
A or #2 terminal- yellow/black-capacitor
S or #3 terminal- white/black
F or #4 terminal- orange
Alternator: Battery terminal- Black/tied to yellow from regualtor
Field- orange from reulator
Stator- white from regulator
Grn- Ground to regulator case
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but my truck has manual choke. Not electric like the drawing.
Regulator: I or #1 terminal- green/red
A or #2 terminal- yellow/black-capacitor
S or #3 terminal- white/black
F or #4 terminal- orange
Alternator: Battery terminal- Black/tied to yellow from regualtor
Field- orange from reulator
Stator- white from regulator
Grn- Ground to regulator case
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but my truck has manual choke. Not electric like the drawing.