I've got a '94 F150 w/ the I6 5-speed...I saw a few mentions of a 5.8 swap using the I6 tranny, however I'm not certain of the compatability between the 5.0 & the 5-speed tranny.

I would most likely be using a Mustang engine, PCM, etc...or maybe standalone if I had the money lol

This is all very tentative @ this point so no casting stones...just give me some insightful input

-Scott

 

the 300 I6, 5.0, and 5.8 all used the same bellhousing pattern and input shaft diameter, splines etc. The only thing is that the clutches were different. I dont know if the 5.0 and the 5.8 use the same clutch, but the 300 to the 5.0 is different. Also, the flywheels are different as all three motors had different balancing requirements. As for the swap, make sure you get all of the wiring out of the mustang, the computer etc. I pulled an 88 302 and put it in my 92 when the 300 finally quit. I ran into a problem with the wiring where the 92 and up uses an under hood fuse box, and the 88 used individual fuseable links. It didnt really pose to much of an issue as i left the box in my 92 and tied the neccesary powers and grounds through the fuse box. I went from a truck to a truck, not a mustang so i couldnt tell ya as to what you would be dealing with, but as long as you have nice accurate wiring diagrams, then you should be fine. To get nice wiring diagrams go to Automotive Hobbyist.com. They have all kinds of nice wiring diagrams, but you will have to spend like $20 to get both, one for your truck and one for the donor car. They are extremely detailed and accurate. I dont know if i could have done it with just a haynes manual or the like. The truck motor mounts will need to be purchased from a wrecker. The holes are all ready there for you in your crossmember and the I6 ones just unbolt from the top of the crossmember. 1/2" bolts will work for mounting them. As long as you are just doing the motor swap, then all the other mounting locations, like tranny etc, are the same and wont need to be moved. I know the mustang intake and the truck intake are different, but wether that is an issue would be better left to some of the other many knowledgeable people on this site that have done just what you are talking about.

 

Well, that's a pleasant surprise. What's even better is that there are multiple people on here that have done the same thing. I guess my next question would be the exhaust...did anyone mess with hi performance manifolds? I'm guessing there's enough clearance underneath for straighties so long as I keep the thing on pavement, but I am sure someone on here would have already gone through the pain of finding out...

Also what about a lift? How hard is that to accomplish? I thought I might have read that there's some fabricating that needs to be done?

I'm really psyched I found this website.

-Scott

 

sounds like this is a 4x4, or at least a truck used for truck-like things.
considering that, IMO, you are going backwards as to what you want in an engine.
The 300-6 is a much better engine than the 5.0 for a truck. better pulling, smoother, lower revs, easier to work on. I'd re-think what you want the truck to do before commiting to this.
Now, if its going to stay on the street and race once in a while, sure, do it! But why not go with a 351 instead? better power, but lousy gas mileage, cramped engine bay...
Build up the 300 for what you want. you'll come out ahead of the game in the long run.
BTW, This is coming from a guy with all (stock) bigblocks in all his trucks but one! And that one is a 351.

 

Lift kits are relitively bolt on installs. If you go 4" or larger, then you will need to remove items like radius arm brackets and suspension arm brackets. The radius arm brackets and the driverside drop bracket are riveted on and will need to be cut off. A torch is the fastest way, but care should be taken not to cut the brackets or the frame/crossmember. The passenger side drop bracket is bolted on(dont ask me why ford did that on one side but not on the other). If you are going 4" or larger, do that at the same time as the motor swap since the rivets on the driverside drop bracket also are used for the 302 motor mounts and when I put mine on they fit, but I had to take it off to get at the rivets. Plus the upper rivets are easy to get to with the motor out of the way. Also with 4" or larger kits for these trucks, you have two options for the radius arms. You can go with drop brackets to use the stock radius arm and correct for the lift, or you can go with longer radius arms. The longer radius arms are more exspensive but you will gain more articulation, and have a better over all suspension in my opinion.

Hi pro manifolds? i am assuming you mean headers. Full length truck headers will fit the mustang block and fit based on the application year of the truck. If you plan on wheelin, I dont reccomend full length headers for trail clearance. I smashed up a set on my bronco pretty good. Other people will disagree with me, but it is your choice. You will get more of a performance gain out of full length headers. I have some summit racing brand shorty headers on my 302, and i am not sure if there was much of a peformance gain out of them, but i didnt do a before and after comparison since the manifolds were cracked and i put them on when i did the swap.

 

if you are doing an engine swap dont mess around with going to the 302 go to the 351 or stay with the 300. with the 302 you only get an extra 5 lbs/torque and 45 hp.

 

i agree either go 5.8 or stay with the 300-6. also running a mustang ecu would require an complete rewire of the engine harness and honestly not worth the hassle unless you were heavily modifing a motor.

 

Hmmm you guys are partial to the windsor huh? How much more power do you think the 351 yields as compared to a 302? I wouldn't be throwing a stock 302 in there, it would be modified since I would break down the block...and I never go in without replacing close to everything. I will admit though, I am way more familiar with GM applications vs. Ford, so please bear with me. In the past I had always thought the 351 didn't present that much of a gain opposed to the 302, but is this not the case?

I guess the reason I want an 8 pot is the fact that the existing motor is getting tired, & I am looking to find a project motor to play with until it dies...just some forward planning with a guarantee of fun @ the end.

-Scott

 

The 351W will have better low end Torque than the 302, Like 305 vs. 350/400 Chevy. I built a early model 302 for torque and was pleased, same mods on a 351W would be even better. Not sure about the EFI stuff.

 

There is no replacement for displacement, and anything that is bolt on for a 302, will bolt on to a 351W. If you dont already have the motor, get the 351. It will cost you pretty much the same in the end, and the swap is identical, just different specific parts like wiring harness and computer. I swapped in a 302 in my truck because I had a line on a truck for $300 with all the parts i needed, and now will stroke it get the bottum end torque rather than a 351 thanks to the first 302 wearing out and now have a core.

 

Wow so that's 2 of you guys promoting the 351...is that souly based on low RPM torque, or overall performance? I'm only gonna be driving this thing on the pavement & I don't forsee it towing much. I just want it to have some ***** without too much of a hassle. I'll start looking for a 351 since I like the sound of not having to screw with the stock wiring harness, but are you guys certain I can get the same performance out of the 351 huh?

-Scott

 

i would go one better build a stroked 351 and have all the power that a 392 would give! now my friend has hot rodded his 94 f150 orginally a 302 to a 392 and he is running a 94 cobra cpu for a manual , that gives you the ho tune and the correct firing order, but will require some rewiring

 

For the mileage difference, if any, and the starting power gain, I would definetly take a 351 if you havent bought any parts yet. Like I said, anything that you can get for the 302, you can get for the 351 and are starting with more stock hp and torque. Even if you are not planning on towing much, going from lights to lights the low rpm torque will cause your heavy truck to accelerate better. "There is no replacement for displacement" and you can stroke out a 351 better than a 302 and still keep it streetable thanks to the taller deck height.

 

I have a 93 f150 with a 302. Its a dog. The 302 has 185 hp and 270ft lb. The 351 has 220 hp and 310 ft lb. Maybe not a huge difference in numbers but you can definately tell when you put your foot to the floor. The 302 is basically a car motor and well, it hauls about as well as a car motor can. The 351 was definately made to be a truck motor, and you guessed it, it hauls like a truck motor. I would say go for the 351. If I could fine a nice one I would swap up.

 

I vote for the 351W also