thanks to the good info on this site.
BCP Mod done...
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
I tested the BCP mod. Hooked up a 2kw inverter and a 1.5hp compressor while in BCP mode. Hooked in a dvm to see what was happening. Cruising along at 1250 (1st tic past 1000) the dvm read 13.76. Turned on inverter and compressor, and opened drain valve on tank to keep it running. I let the dvm get down to 11.65 (just over 2000 rpm) before I got paranoid. Shut off compressor and inverter. Took about 30 min for rpm's to get back down to 1250. Anyone know what the limits of BCP are? What are the danger points if any? Will batteries keep dropping?
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
This is a variation of the PTO High Idle Mod. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the BCP is for service trucks and ambulances that run tools, etc. from their truck batteries. This mod prevents you from running down you batteries.
These instructions ares from a lonewolftx post, and I saw other directions in the Tech Folder.
Noted from another source
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>On '06 models there are 2 options for High Idle. Note belowThis is the easy step-by-step instructions to set up your '05 or '06 Super Duty to have a high idle option. This is for diesel trucks with the factory auxiliary upfitter switches. This procedure replaces the need in the older trucks to buy an AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module from Ford.
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Wire stripper
Crimper
Parts:
One butt connector for 18ga wire
How to do it:
You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your transmission), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire with the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).
Differences in behavior:
BCP
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.
Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room on there to fit hands and tools. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can too.
Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
These instructions ares from a lonewolftx post, and I saw other directions in the Tech Folder.
Noted from another source <HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>On '06 models there are 2 options for High Idle. Note belowThis is the easy step-by-step instructions to set up your '05 or '06 Super Duty to have a high idle option. This is for diesel trucks with the factory auxiliary upfitter switches. This procedure replaces the need in the older trucks to buy an AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module from Ford.
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Wire stripper
Crimper
Parts:
One butt connector for 18ga wire
How to do it:
- Pull the full panel cover off. It's the big panel just below the steering wheel. The top just pulls out from the dash and then swings down to let the bottom catches come free.
- Remove the 4 bolts (10mm heads) that hold the fuse panel in place. Pull it out and let it hang down.
- Find the upfitter switch you want to use.
- Find the SEIC or BCP wire you want to use.
- Strip the end of each wire 1/4" and crimp the butt connect on them to connect them together.
- Put the fuse panel back in place and reinstall the bolts.
- Snap the fuse cover back in place.
You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your transmission), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire with the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).
Differences in behavior:
BCP
- will automatically vary RPMs from 1200 up to 2400 to maintain battery charge
- does not lock the torque converter
- has an additional wire that is an output that can be used to turn on an indicator lamp to show that BCP is active. i.e. if you want to install an LED in your dash to tell you BCP is on. Since the upfitter switch has a light on the end of this, I don't see much point in this (if you're using a factory upfitter switch).
- does not automatically vary the RPMs. Sets idle at 1200 (unless you take advantage of the additional control wire).
- has an additional control wire that you can hook to a resistor to vary the RPMs. You could install a variable potentiometer (i.e. a **** on your dash) to let you dial in whatever RPM you want, when SEIC is active - from 1200 to 2400 (I think that's the max).
- locks the torque converter
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.
Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room on there to fit hands and tools. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can too.
Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
- start the engine.
- set the emergency brake.
- have the transmission in Park.
- do not have your foot on the foot brake.
- flip the upfitter switch to the up (On) position.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Florence,SC
Originally Posted by DeepDoc1
I tested the BCP mod. Hooked up a 2kw inverter and a 1.5hp compressor while in BCP mode. Hooked in a dvm to see what was happening. Cruising along at 1250 (1st tic past 1000) the dvm read 13.76. Turned on inverter and compressor, and opened drain valve on tank to keep it running. I let the dvm get down to 11.65 (just over 2000 rpm) before I got paranoid. Shut off compressor and inverter. Took about 30 min for rpm's to get back down to 1250. Anyone know what the limits of BCP are? What are the danger points if any? Will batteries keep dropping?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
Actually, that was a test. Normally I wouldn't run it like that, just normal duty for tools and such. The bigger alternator sounds interesting, though. I'll have to research that. Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 3
From: Florence,SC
ok i found you a part number deep doc. it is a 140 amp alternator that is on the factory snow plow trucks. 4C3Z-10346-BA is what you need.
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
I *think* the alternator on there now is 130? Is the 140 a heavier duty or is the extra 10 amps what I need?
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Postmaster
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Originally Posted by DeepDoc1
Yep, it's factory. I'll check my dealer to get a price for install of the 140. Next truck will have dual alternators. (Tim Allen grunt here....)
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
I'm curious how they'll do it on the '08 6.4. I'm lusting for the 450. I will definitely have a look. There are some monster alternators out there for single oem swap fits.
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I just got my upfitter switches and harness Saturday, so I'm planning on installing it this week. When I do that I will also hook up either the BCP or SEIC mod.
Now my question is, since I have the 140 amp alternator, would you think that I would be okay going with the BCP mod and not worrying about the run-away idle? Or should I just stick with the SEIC and and live with the torque converter locking up?
Suggestions or thoughts?
Now my question is, since I have the 140 amp alternator, would you think that I would be okay going with the BCP mod and not worrying about the run-away idle? Or should I just stick with the SEIC and and live with the torque converter locking up?
Suggestions or thoughts?
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From: Walkersville, Maryland
When I hear the term "run away" in the diesel world, I think back to my Navy days. Runaway meant just that - be somewhere else SOON, because there was going to be a lot of noise and smoke when that engine unmanufactured itself. I really haven't heard about that problem in modern vehicles, but I suppose it could happen. One of the gurus may know. My experiment was a little extreme since I really doubt I'd ever run that much off the truck systems. I didn't get paranoid about the rpms (I figure it's designed to run up to 2400 rpm), I got scared I was going to run the batteries down too far. As bowtiehatr pointed out, a 140 would keep up with the extra load much better than 110. Even in my experiment, when I let the compressor just cycle ike it normally would when using tools, the battery voltage never dropped below 12.5 and the charge came back pretty quickly when the compressor stopped.
[Edit:] Good luck with the harness. You're a better man than I am - I was cussin' a blue streak just getting the BCP hooked up, can't imagine doing a whole harness
[Edit:] Good luck with the harness. You're a better man than I am - I was cussin' a blue streak just getting the BCP hooked up, can't imagine doing a whole harness
Last edited by DeepDoc1; Dec 18, 2006 at 06:00 AM.
Postmaster
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From: Florence,SC
well deepdoc, there have been some 6.0s run away. the ones i have read about have been due to alot of oil ingestion in the cac from a turbo seal or excessive idle time and the ccv system geeting clogged due to bad servise rates. i have heard it is rather interesting.