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Hello: All
I have a 72 f100 with a 360 block and 390 rotating assembly.Lunati cam, ported truck heads with small valves. TCI Breakaway converter 3.0 geas with a locker.
best time to date is a 15.21 with a lot of wheel hop.and a 2.62 60 ft.What to get into 12's . I have a set 428 cj ported heads and roller rockers to replace truck heads.
Even a 428 isn't gonna get you in the 12's with a major investment in horsepower goodies and ending up with an un streetable motor. Getting rid of the 3.00 gears and go with at least 4.10. But you are still trying to push a brick thru the air and that takes major horsepower. My much more aerodynamic '69 Torino Cobra fastback with a Ram Air 428CJ with a Crane Fireball cam (I know, old school, but this was 1970), headers, 406 3X2 carbs, top loader 4 speed and 4.30 gears with a limited slip and weighing 3600lbs with street tires ran in the 13.80s and with slicks and a diet of 400 lbs off the car ran 12.88. Your truck is gonna be a lot harder to get there.
Ok I need alittle more information on your setup?? Like what heads are you running and what are wanting to go to?? Mainly need chamber size. You need to get the compression as high as you can get it. probaly around 11 to 1 or 12 to 1 compression. Also what is the stall on your t/q convertor.? Your tire size gear ratio will play into that also. One more thing. what are you using for traction bars??. if you go to my gallery you can see a home built setup that I built for mine, But I am still spining off the line some so I am going to install a sway bar on the rear to help the tires hook up equally. Your pretty far from the 12's but it might just be possible for some low 13's. Your hp and tq will come mainly from what type of head work and intake set up you have, and also what cam you have. It might just be possible!!! I am running a 418Fe 12 to 1 compression. As far a streetable. well I drive mine every weekend around town and were ever. I run 93 octane in it when on the street and 112 octane when I race. It is possible!!
Here's what I have now 360 block with 390 crank, forged trw flat top pistons 30 over,Lunati hyd cam 230 dur. @ 0.050 .544/.544 lift on a 109 centerline with stock rockers but I will installing (428 cj c8oe-6090-n heads with harland sharp roller tip rockers) cc on heads "?" Intake is a edelbrock proformer dual plane with 1" spacer and a holley 750 vac. sec., C6 with 2800 stall converter, 3.0 gears with locker had 4-11s but motor seemed to spin up to quick so I tried stock gears, tires Hoosier 275/60/15 street radials 28" tall. No traction bars at this time (I have a home made set with snubber at front spring eye.) Looked at your photo of ladder bars. are you using floaters on springs. My intent for this truck is to be a drag truck mainly ,72 f100 long bed.
NO I am not running floaters. My traction bars bolt up at the shock mounts on the axle and I have moved the shock to the traction bar. I had to reinforce the mounts alot casue the first time out i broke both of them. and then I use tie rod ends on the other end to adjust then in and out. It sounds that your going to have about a 9.5 to 1 to 10 to 1 compression with those head unless you shave them to get the chambers smaller. the chambers on those heads are from 67-70cc. I have C8AEH heads that have been shaved to a 66cc chamber. As far as the cam I would go to a split duration cam or one with a little more lift and duration not more than .560 lift and not more than a 245 duration. I use to run a Comp Cam 292H that was 244@.050 with a .560 lift and ran rather nicely in my old 390. The cam I have in this one is a custom grind. I would say with out raising the compression up alot you probably around a mid to low 13 sec truck if you can get it to hook up. but I would diffenetly change cams that cam is going to kill your top in HP with those heads. As far as gears i would try a 3.73 gear but no more thana 4.10. As far as what you said about your engine reving up with the 4.10 gear that is what you want. You want to get the engine up in the power band before you take off. I have a 3500 stall with 3.50 gears on 28 inch slicks. I take off from the light at 2200 rpms. I have 1.702 60ft. your on the right track. I am runnig a PortOSonic single plane intake, but your intake will work just fine also. Here is some videos of my truck and a friend of mines car that I built the engine in. we have done alot more suspesion to it and he has actuall ran a high 11's with it . It only has a bored 350 in it.
Checked cam card lift is .554 not .544 , truck ran 9.50's with 4-11's and 9.60's with 3.0's in 1/8 mi. with almost same mi/hr. videos are cool thanks again.
Thats pretty good!!! Do you remeber what your RPM was as you went through the trap?? My old 390 use to run 9.30 in the 1/8 mile with a small rv cam. and stock torque convertor. It was hole lot faster with the Comp Cam 292h, but I broke the block before I got to find out how fast it was. All I can say is the cam will real make a difference. Ported heads will also make the difference. Those 1/8 mile times were with out traction bars and a 3.50 gears and open differential. the way it sounds is you just need a good set out heads and little better cam. The lift sound good but I think you need alittle more duration to keep the valves open longer. The Comp Cam I have suggestive I have known some guys to run it and have had real ggo luck out of it. It has real short lift ramp so the valves open and close quickly to help make loads of power. Also it has a real nice racey idle!!! Oh the 1/8 mile times I just told you about was when the truck use to be a long bed.
Well let me see if i can explain this,. If it is a flash type t/q convertor it will stall all the way up to 3500 if it is a 3500 stall or 2500 with a 2500 stall. Now if it is a brake type(I think that is what they call it) A 3500 stall will only stall as much as the engine hp/tq will get it up to so I could stall anywere from about 1500 to about 3000 rpm. I noticed the more tunning i did on my truck at the track my stall was slow rising. Here is a couple articles on t/q comnvertors. All i can say it is very interesting if you only been a clutch guy like myself tell now. so I am learing also.
thats sounds good. You want rpm right around were your hp starts to fall off. I am still having tunning issues cause i hit 5000 rpms about 100ft before the 1/8 mile and only gain 200 rpms to the 1/4 mile mark. so I need to find some top end power right know , but I bet a good 3.73 gear would work great on yours or a higher stall maybe like 3200 or so. My first time out i was runnig a 4.22 gear and would go through the lights at 6500 rpm. but my truck really was pulling that hard so i went to a 3.50 gear which helped out alot but i think i need a 3.73 gear. so It takes a little time and tunning.
I am runnig a solid flat tappet cam. I have nothing special on it. using stock 428 adjustable rockers. NO girdle or side bolts. I have heard a good built 390 block can ahndle up to 600hp. I am using studs on the mains all except the last one(one by the main seal) cause of clearance issues with the oil panm To use studs on the that cap you have to have it machined down. My enigne will turn 7000 rpm no problems . it has seen 8000 rpms on a burn-out and I bent a pushrod during the burnout, and made the best pass of the night with abent push rod(figure that one out). The major expense I had was the crank, I bought brand new Scat 3.98 stroke crank and had my rotating assembly balanced, So imagine with it all being balanced it has hel out alot with the vibration of the engine.. I had a friend of mine that had 1966 F100 stepside with a 390 bored .060 running ported Aluminum Heads and 13 to 1 compression solid roller cam and roller rockers make a 7.40 pass in the 1/8 mile full body truck not wieght reduction. he was not runnig a girdle or side bolts either. Just make sure your rotating assembly is right and should not have any problems. My best 1/8 mile is a 7.94.
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