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Installing brake lines last night

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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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Installing brake lines last night

I started installing my brake lines last night. While not necessarily complicated, there sure is an "art" to it.

I am not particularly happy with the tubing bender I have. Can someone make a suggestion on a decent one for me to pick up? What should I look for? Mine has a turn radius of 1" and this seems big; especially for 1/4" tubing. I see many of them listed on eBay but have no idea about their quality. I do need to run to NAPA today, do they have a decent tubing bender?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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NAPA should have what you want. Talk to the guys at the counter, I am sure they'll be able to help.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:24 AM
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I use the single tubing benders, not the multi size all in one types. It depends on what you want to spend also. Imperial makes a good bender. Snap on makes a really nice one that gives you professional bends, but aren't cheap. I have the 3/16", 5/16" and 3/8" benders. The ones I use are from Parker Appliances and are single hand held. I don't know what type you have, but you really shouldn't need to go with more than a 1" bend. With a tight bend you'll collapse the tubing. There is a art to getting it right, but is fun once you do it and look at the results. With brake lines, make sure you use a double flare on the ends, or you'll get leaks for sure.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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I find it helps to plan your bends with some 1/16" welding rod. Bend it over a dowel the same diameter as your bender. On long straight runs I put in an expansion "hump" to allow movement. Be sure to attach the line to the frame with nylon lined clamps.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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Do you need to use double flares if your using 3/8 stainless steel lines and fittings. RUSTY
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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I hope you mean 3/16" tubing, 3/8 is fuel line, way overkill and MC may not have adequate capacity for that much volume. but the answer is yes, you do need double flare, all brake line fittings are designed for double flared tubing. I'd expect it would be hard to find fittings to adapt to a larger size tubing at the MC and at the flex lines. It would also be very difficult to bend larger tubing to needed shapes.
Speaking of tubing size, Spyfox why are you using 1/4" tubing? I expect that is why you are having trouble bending it.
 

Last edited by AXracer; Dec 13, 2006 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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AX
Sorry bout that yes I ment 3/16.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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I bent all mine by hand. I have several benders but found once i was under the truck there just wasn't room. If you bend by hand just go easy and make nothing too sharp too quickly.
Double flare every joint.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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AX,

I think you mis read his post.... Stainless lines DO NOT use double flares... only a 37 degree single flare will work with stainless... it won't hold up to the second part of the double flare.....


As for the best kind of bender... there is an article on my website about "plumbing disk brakes" that shows the best kind of benders... and might offer a little help

bender article


I like the single sized benders with the die and follower that holds the shape of the tubing for you...






it has the markings on the die for 45 and 90 degree bends as well as marks for placement for start of bend and center of radius bends. You probably can't screw up the bend with this bender, unless you forget to put your fittings on first
hope it helps
j
 

Last edited by jniolon; Dec 13, 2006 at 08:21 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jniolon
You probably can't screw up the bend with this bender, unless you forget to put your fittings on first
hope it helps
j
I could screw it up...with or without the fitting.....LOL

Bobby
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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I got an Eastman bender that looked something like the one pictured; relatively expensive, but nice. There's a trick I saw someplace, where you do some bends in scrap tubing, marking on the tube a reference point on the bender. Then you can use that piece to figure out where to start the bends on the real tubing. If you see what I mean.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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If its breakable, I can break it.
Bending lines is a art; as Axracer stated, plan routes are essential. End result's are awesome and enhance the look's.

Mitch
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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The key is to keep the bender straight. If your bender is not in the right position of your bend, the tube will be off also. I fasten one end of the bender in a vise and turn the tubing in the direction I need the bend, and bend the tube. That way I can eyeball if I'm straight or off and allow myself more control of the bend. Just a little tip. BTW- Stainless looks good, but is a pain to work with and expensive if you screw up.
 

Last edited by imlowr2; Dec 13, 2006 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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The reason I want to use stainless is because my soninlaw works in the oil field and they use stainless 3/16 line to run down in the hole to put some kind of gas in it. But I can get the line and all the fitting free. He said lots of the guys use it on thier trucks and the fittings are good up to 4000 psi. He said the fittings they use will work on my brakes. And also the 3/8 line will work on my EFI fuel lines as well is that correct. RUSTY
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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Rusty50F1
I have a buddy who plumbed his brakes and fuel using SS lines and stainless AN fittings. 3/16" on the brakes and 3/8" on the fuel line. Makes a dynamite looking finished product. Of course, he went the extra detail and polished all of his after he fit it up. He bought his fittings from an airplane parts dealer and they were cheaper than from a streetrod supplier. Sounds like you have a better source through your son-in-law.
 
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