88 E350 rebuilt engine skips
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Probably the module itself. Pretty common on that year. Also check all your grounds really carefully. I found a mess on my '91 merc yesterday, they all looked good from the outside but the wire inside is so corroded I'm not sure how it's running.
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Its a crate engine from Carquest, purchased two years ago. AFAIK, It was a rebuild.
The distributor was used because the garage that installed the motor had no idea what a proper installation entails.
The distributor was used because the garage that installed the motor had no idea what a proper installation entails.
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Okay, replaced distributor. Everything was running perfect in the driveway and suddenly it died. I ran it 5 or 6 times today back and forth to town, started, stopped fine but it died in the driveway when I was using my Boom.
The ECM and Fuel Pump aren't getting any power. I've checked the relays, all the fuses, etc. I found a couple wires going to the relays with FUSEABLE LINK written on them somewhere but I couldn't find a fuse at all. All fuses I have found are good, but still getting no ECM power or fuel pump when Key is ON. Any ideas?
The ECM and Fuel Pump aren't getting any power. I've checked the relays, all the fuses, etc. I found a couple wires going to the relays with FUSEABLE LINK written on them somewhere but I couldn't find a fuse at all. All fuses I have found are good, but still getting no ECM power or fuel pump when Key is ON. Any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Jasper, MO
A fuseable link is a special section of wire that acts like a fuse. WHY they did this, is beyond me, except to say that it does strictly limit the amperage going to the unit. Once these links blow, they have to be replaced. Sometimes awhen they go you can tell that the wire is distorted or extremely flexible like it is broken.
You can test the wire at each end with a test light probe, but do NOT try it in the middle. If it IS blown, you need to replace it with either another fuseable link or MY choice: an inline fuse holder with the appropriate fuse.
Good luck
Merry Christmas!
Tom
You can test the wire at each end with a test light probe, but do NOT try it in the middle. If it IS blown, you need to replace it with either another fuseable link or MY choice: an inline fuse holder with the appropriate fuse.
Good luck
Merry Christmas!
Tom
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All fusable links are good. Tested with probe on both ends. There is one very big fuse holder with a fuse in it double the size of a regular round glass fuse that I dont seem to be measuring 12v across the other end, but I have no idea what its function is.
Still no check engine light when key is on or fuel pump activity.
Still no check engine light when key is on or fuel pump activity.
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From: Jasper, MO
Your fuel pump will only come on for a couple seconds when you turn on the key. If it is working properly, it builds pressure THAT fast. Did you do a connectivity test on the relays.... I mean, are you SURE they are working? If not, do so.
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The relays have the constant 12v on the wire they are supposed to, but the fuel pump isn't coming on at all when the key is on, not even for the 2-3 seconds it usually does.
I dont get a check engine light when I turn the key on either. Any other tests I can do on the relay?
I dont get a check engine light when I turn the key on either. Any other tests I can do on the relay?
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From: Jasper, MO
OK, on a typical ISO relay setup the relay usually has 4 contacts, and numbers on them like, 30,85,86,87. two of the contacts are for control (on/off) and one is for POWER (connecting power to the device). Remove the relays, and turn the key on; there should be power to one of the female ports that the Relays plug into.
To test the relay itself, connect a fused jumper wire from battery positive to terminal 86 and a jumper wire from terminal 85 to ground. the relay should click. WITH THE JUMPERS STILL CONNECTED, test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87. you can do this with an ommeter or by connecting a third jumper from terminal 87 to batt pos and checking 30 with your test lamp. The ohmmeter is better because you'll get a resistance reading.
if there is no power to the ECU then it will not send power to the fuel.
hope I havent created more confusion. I tried to find a diagram but unless I DRAW one Im out of luck!
Lemme know how it goes!
Tom
To test the relay itself, connect a fused jumper wire from battery positive to terminal 86 and a jumper wire from terminal 85 to ground. the relay should click. WITH THE JUMPERS STILL CONNECTED, test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87. you can do this with an ommeter or by connecting a third jumper from terminal 87 to batt pos and checking 30 with your test lamp. The ohmmeter is better because you'll get a resistance reading.
if there is no power to the ECU then it will not send power to the fuel.
hope I havent created more confusion. I tried to find a diagram but unless I DRAW one Im out of luck!
Lemme know how it goes!
Tom
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From: Jasper, MO
Unless I'm mistaken, (which DOES happen on occasion...just ask the woman next to me in the picture) the big glass tube is a ballast resistor, in which case it WOULD have lower voltage at one end...
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With the relay unplugged, I am getting 12 volts on only one connector that the ECM relay plugs into. I get the same results with the key ON/RUN. There should be at least one more wire on the plug with 12v when the key is in RUN position, correct?
I believe my relay failed testing. I have opened the relay and manually tested it and I only get continuity on two of the pins at any/all times.
I believe my relay failed testing. I have opened the relay and manually tested it and I only get continuity on two of the pins at any/all times.
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From: Jasper, MO
The ecu runs on a lower voltage... 5, I think. this will not light your test light. the relay should connect it to its supply, tho, I believe. check them with a voltmeter to be sure.
and yes, if you tested the relay as I described, it is bad if after it CLICKS, you do not have a connection between 30 and 87.
and yes, if you tested the relay as I described, it is bad if after it CLICKS, you do not have a connection between 30 and 87.
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My ECU relay doesn't number them like 30, 87, etc. I have 1, 2, 3, and then two unlabled pins. But I can only get continuity between two of the pins with the relay closed like it should be, and not 3 as I thought I needed. (constant 12v, ECU, distributor wire)
I manually closed the relay but the engine would not start, most likely because there wasn't any voltage being supplied to the distributor module.
So I should only have 1 12v source on the plug for the ECU active regardless of key position?
I manually closed the relay but the engine would not start, most likely because there wasn't any voltage being supplied to the distributor module.
So I should only have 1 12v source on the plug for the ECU active regardless of key position?