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You have a fuel pressure issue. It's flooding, you need to pull the plugs and let the cylinders dry out. It should only have 45 to 50 psi with the engine off, not 6 0 to 65. It also should only have 35 to 40psi when running.
You have a fuel pressure issue. It's flooding, you need to pull the plugs and let the cylinders dry out. It should only have 45 to 50 psi with the engine off, not 6 0 to 65. It also should only have 35 to 40psi when running.
He's right there... I thought so when he first mentioned it, and again checked it in the manual. probably just the regulator, and honestly that's an easy fix.
A local ford mechanic told me 60-65 was perfect. Hm.
The mechanic fixing it is trying the electronic ignition module tomorrow, and possibly the fuel pressure regulator.
The wrong sending unit is installed in the tank. It doesn't fit right, and when it has about 10 gallons left it craps out and doesn't run. I need to get the right sending unit in too. I believe it has a 30 gallon tank or something.
It's a 38 gallon tank, and don't let that mechanic touch it again. If you have the wrong "sender" in the tank your gas gauge will be off and that's it. If it's got the wrong length pump assembly then yes it will quit at about 10 gallons left. If it was the ICM (Ignition Control Module) it wouldn't run at all more than likely. That or as soon as it got warm it would shut down, but restart 10 to 20 minutes later after it cooled off.
The mechanic that measured the fuel pressure and the mechanic that told me what it should be are two different people. The one who told me 60-65 psi was good fuel pressure from the pump has not only his knowledge but hands on experience building engines from stock to race.
The mechanic doing the work however is a different story. How do you know this is a 38 gallon tank? It only took 19 gallons at the point where it quit, and he wasn't responsible for the wrong sending unit being installed. So I'm assuming that since the sender registered Empty, it held 19 gallons, then there was around 11~ or so left, making it a 31 gallon tank.
The mechanic doing the regular work on it figured it was a 30 gallon tank. Any way to tell? I can't find a sending unit for a 31 or a 38 gallon tank.
Ok. You have an '88, so it's a 20 gallon tank. You could get an 18 gallon auxiliary tank as an option. So 19 gallons is about right. Just because the other guy build engines does not mean he know the ins and outs of your Ford van. I however have had many over the years and do fix them regularly. 60 to 65psi of fuel pressure is waaaay too much for the stock engine, for a 5.8 it should be 45 to 50psi with the engine off, and 35 to 40 with the engine running. Go to the zone and flip through the haynes manual if you don't believe me, or call the ford dealer's shop. They will tell you the same thing. At 60 to 65 psi your injectors are leaking like a sieve, and causing a rich condition. This is also why it skips. Pull the codes and see what the computer is trying to tell you. It can do a pretty good job of telling you what sensor is detecting a malfunction.
I believe you, but the computer isn't sending any codes or any information whatsoever.
The other mechanic measured the pressure by the 2nd pump, on the frame rail near where the engine and transmission connect. If the pressure regulator is doing its job, it should knock the pressure down to 40 while the engine is running. However, if the pressure regulator wasn't working it would be causing the condition you describe, leaking injectors + rich running condition. Which would explain why in the cold it runs better, and when it warms up it messes up.
I think its a 31 gallon tank, its an 88 E350 cargo van with a bucket, and one fuel tank. And its big. The wrong sending unit was installed and all the guys at the company I work for told me that their 88 Van's had 30 gallon fuel tanks, which is possible. But I can't even find a parts listing for a 31 gallon sending unit.
Why is he so retiscent to change a simple Fuel Pressure Regulator in favor of more, higher dollar parts. I installed a brand new filter, pump, regulator and drove around town all day with the guage hose running up thru the doghouse and my pressure ran a steady 42. maybe he's measuring in METRIC, hehe...
Replace the regulator, it has a torn membrane.
edit: the stock E350s come with 22.1 gal tanks. cutaways for motorhomes, box trucks, etc. are 40 gal tanks. hope this helps
This is an E350 Cargo Van, in other words, its stripped inside, but still a van. Same rule still apply? 22 gallon tank?
I really think its bigger than 22 gallons, but I could be wrong. Hard to guess by looking at it.
It just doesn't seem like its a 22 gallon tank, more like 30. The sending unit reports at best 3/4s full and when its empty, I can run it for two days.
It's more than likely a 22 gallon tank. Unless it's been changed. It is a huge looking tank. The FPR is easy to replace, and is not expensive. Is your mechanic checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? This is the correct place to check it from, there is a schrader valve on the drivers side fuel rail. It should have a black plastic cap on it. Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure yourself. Also I'd get a good manual and learn not to rely on the mechanic. It's starting to sound like he's a parts changer and not a real mechanic.
He is checking on the fuel rail, yes that is correct. Im not actually paying for his work, someone else is so he can put any new parts on the van he likes. LOL.
It came out of it on the way to my other mechanic who is replacing my drag link and pitman arm. I was going to have him look into it as well.
When the 1st mechanic was checking the pressure on the fuel rail near the FPR, he was getting the 60-65 psi reading.
Perhaps the skipping problem is directly related to the problem I experienced this afternoon.
Driving home from the garage because parts are on back order, and going along about 60 it just died. Heard a small pop and the engine died, and wouldn't restart after. Engine cranked hard, felt like a dead battery but battery has plenty of voltage and starter is good.
Sounds like you have a bad ICM to me. The POP you heard was probably a backfire through the intake as the timing retarded back to 10dbtdc. That or it flooded on you, and hydrolocked the engine.