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welding d44 front diff?

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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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welding d44 front diff?

will a front D44 in a 88 f150 with a 4 inch lift and 35's on a 15x8 rim with 4 inches of backspacing hold up if i weld the spiders? i go mudding about twice a month. i just put a powertrax lock right in the rear 8.8.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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I would venture to say that if you 8.8 is still holding together that your D44 probably will too. Are you sure that it is a 44?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:09 AM
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I wouldnt recommend welding a front dif.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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i just spoke to a guy and he said i may have trouble turning with a welded front diff.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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Welding it will make your truck strictly offroad only. Turning on pavement will make the tires howl and will break parts. Dangerous as hell. A selectable locker should be used up front. You gotta pay to play!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:25 AM
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you could get by w/ driving on the road if you have lock-outs, but never have them locked on the road, only lock them off road. i would suggest getting another lock-right if you like the one in the rear. keep in mind when you weld a diff, you cant use those parts for anything else. if you want it open again you'll have to buy a new carrier.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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With a welded front, you can turn just fine it you leave one hub unlocked. On the jeep, I just wheel with it in 4 lock, and the passenger side hub locked. still turns just fine, and you have 3 wheel drive. If it starts getting messy, lock my side and its all good. You can unlock a welded diff if you dont weld the spiders to the carrier, just fill the valleys on the spider. with just 35's and a fairly stock mill, shouldnt have to many problems with it unless things were already going out like u joints.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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i just replace every u-joint. i think i am gonna save up for a lock right for the front.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 11:09 PM
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Depending on the diff. I have used lead to lock up rear ends for years. Some diffs are hard to lead and some are easy. We use lead in pulling truck rear ends. You can melt it back out with no part damage.

You have to block off all the places that it can run out and you have to have it hot.

I haven't ever ran one leaded for alot of road miles. It may get loose over a period of time and have to re-heated. It is very strong. Stronger then welding.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 07:42 PM
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The lead idea is interesting. But, I a little reluctant to think that melting a very soft metal (lead) onto a hardened steel gear surface is going to be stronger than a good weld. Welds actually bond the two metals together at the molecular level. There aren't too many bonds stronger than that. A good weld is damn hard to break. However, if your method has been working for you it is probably strong enough and that is all that matters. Besides that, I think it is pretty darn clever.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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I have seen pulling trucks break welded gears. The lead fills in all around the gears and they can't turn. It works. I would say some diffs may hard to lead because of accessability. Dana 44's may not lead good. Rear ends like Rockwell 106's, Ford 9", the old Corporate Chevy 1 tons, ones like that lead good.

Some guys pulling trucks won't lead there rearends because of weight. We used pull two drives so weight to the rear isn't that big a deal. You need some on the back, Four wheel drives want everything on the front.

Lead is heavy so guys in motor sports where you need to be light as far as total weight goes probably need a locking unit. If you are just going out and getting ignorant in the woods, try it.
 

Last edited by catfish101; Dec 14, 2006 at 08:24 PM.
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